Nice piers - what do you use for the moulds to create the board form concrete look? Is it Plastruct patterned sheets?
Not to hijack the thread. Does anyone remember the horse hair plaster we used way back when? I've also seen plaster/ sawdust mix on layouts too. There is an unlimited supply of building products that can and has been incorporated into layout building. Wire screen hardshell, extruded foam, cardboard web, and even seen articles in magazines touting asbestos use. I remember an article titled "Lead. Not just for figures." The author used plaster molds to cast lead bridge abutments and other details.
Pete.
cripplebush valley models. These are rubber rocks prepainted. and come in big pieces. also cast in the propper shapes for different rock type.s. hot glue in place and easy to remove for reuse when the time comes to dismantle a section.
The rock face is one of his one pice rock walls.
Here is another one of his casts.
Shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
I don't think resin is the proper material for casting landscape. It's good for autos and people casting.
Lately I have used sculptamold, a form of paper mache and plaster. Hydorcal gives a sharper casting. I have seen Bragdon castings and they are quite good, but no personal experience.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
MisterBeasleyAny reason not to use a more traditional material like Hydrocal? I find it works quite well. Once I get the timing just right, I can curve and bend the molds to form more idealized contours before the hydrocal sets hard.
Yeah, seems like it might be a good option, and perhaps more versatile for scenery.I use Durabond-90 patching plaster to fill Woodland Scenics rubber rock moulds, and they can be supported with scrap blocks of wood to create both concave and convex curves for the rock face.For scenic landforms, I screw temporary wooden risers to the layout's open grid-work, then staple aluminum screening to the risers and the grid. The Durabond can be applied using a wide scraper or drywall knife, and spread around using your hands while wearing nitrile gloves.After the plaster has set (in roughly 90 minutes), I usually wait a couple of days before applying some well-thinned interior latex house paint, in a suitable "dirt" colour. You can then drill holes to "plant" trees, and also apply suitable ground cover, such as ground foam, static grass, or ballast, along with real dirt.
A few photos (click on them for a larger view)...
Lots still to be done here...
...and here...
...and here, too...
...but I sometimes do get around to finishing it a little more...
Durabond (and similar materials) are also useful for creating water scenes...
I also use it for creating bridge piers and abutments...
By creating the mould upside down, it's easy to cast similar piers in varying heights.
By the way, Welcome to the Model Railroader Forums.
Wayne
rrebell Bragdon still around, remember when he first started out, amazing demo's.
Bragdon still around, remember when he first started out, amazing demo's.
I remember seeing some Bragdon foam rockwork at a local train show when I was just starting out. I bought some and started using it when I got to what I wanted to be a signature scene. I was not disappointed. Joel Bragdon is actually a chemist and really understands what he's doing.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Any reason not to use a more traditional material like Hydrocal? I find it works quite well. Once I get the timing just right, I can curve and bend the molds to form more idealized contours before the hydrocal sets hard.
There is also a casting material made by Bragdon Enterprises. It's actually a casting foam, and produces a really superior rock casting, particularly with the company's high quality molds. Once it sets, is quite solid, but you can warm the casting up with a hair dryer and it will regain flexibility for curving around hills, etc.
Bragdon foam has a bit of a learning curve, and coloring it is a multi-step process using acrylic washes. I like to use this material for up-front scenery where I want first class rock walls and cliffs.
EDIT: I found some photos. The first two are from a small inlet.
These are from a rock wall used to hide a hidden staging area. These are a few of the individual castings. The molds are large, so I cut the castings in half so I could use each half for a long wall.
I really like the detail the casting foam brings out. This is the raw castings. Next I've mounted them and given them one coat of tempera powder to highlight the cracks.
As a newbie your first few post are moderated and delayed.I have never used resin for large projects but I would think any resin should work with a spray mold release. I’ve been casting with resins for around 30 years and the only thing I watch for when purchasing is the set up time, it varies with project size.I also use the 50/50 mix resins, too hard for me to meter the hardener. Mel
My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
I am looking for the best resin or epoxy resin to use with rubber molds to creast mountains and landscaping. I cannot find the dealer that I used to use for my HO scale layouts. I have used this material by the gallon bottles - large scale projects.