I took the old toy trains down to colonial hobbys over the weekend.
The fellow at the counter told me they were not toy junk but I guess good quality stuff.
That was good news I think my dad must have wanted better trains.
He tested everything out and all the engines ran then he showed me how to clean and take care of them.
My kid got as cornerstone kit of a building and he is putting it together.
I bought a whole bag of backman track because he said the track I had was garbage and probably not going to work and went home and set the trains up on the floor but they do not run for me.
Going to figure this out later because today after work I am going to buy a saw and some boards to get going.
It sounds like a great day was had by all. The fella at the store was able to pass on some useful information, and you and he got to role-model good solid grown-up collaboration and discussion. Your son got to learn that his grampa didn't play with second or third rate toy trains, and he saw that you valued what your father enjoyed and wanted to pass it on. Your son learned that he could derive as much enjoyment out of these old gifts-that-keep-on-giving, provided he was willing to spend as much time caring for them as his grandad did. That would place the day in the top 90%ile.
Welcome to the forums!
Always nice to find out things are better than you thought, especially when it's locootives, which are one of the more expensive parts of the hobby.
Since you mention that your father bought the trains, I assume they are DC. Did you use a DC power pack to try and run them? When you hook up your power pack, be sure to attach to the correct posts for track.
If your old track was brass, some people still use it successfully, it does tend to need much more cleaning and most people consider it junk these days. Steel track rusts from what I have seen, even more think it is junk. Nickel silver is the current best option for most folks, though it still needs some care. There are a number of track cleaning cars and other methods to keep your trains operating successfully.
Enjoy the time working with your son and come back with any questions you have. The folks here have a wealth of knowledge and are willing to freely share it with others. They don't always agree, but that gives you options. Some things work better for some and not for others.
Have fun,
Richard
So what trains are they.? What manufacturers.
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
My "old toy trains" are from the fifties and early sixties. I took down my HO layout in the late sixties, as I had graduated from college and my parents wanted the room back. I packed everything up and moved it with me from apartment to apartment for over 30 years. I finally began building another layout in 2005.
I pulled out all the trains. I had a lot to learn. DCC was fairly new, and my horn hook couplers were fairly old. The world had switched to nickel-silver track. And, there were a lot of negatives about those ancient plastic wheels.
To my dismay, my old locomotives either didn't run at all or ran hesitantly. The first stage of my layout was a subway, so I got a subway train and went to work.
Eventually, I got almost all the rolling stock running, inc!using replacing all the horn-hooks with Kadee knuckle couplers and body-mounting all that needed it. The plastic wheels were replaced with metal. I bought all new nickel-silver track. A few of the old engines became dummies. I couldn't throw away my old friends, even if they didn't work anymore.
In the end, almost everything I carted around for 30 years ended up on my layout.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hello All,
What great news!
As has been posted, make sure the connections from your controller ("power pack", A.K.A. Cab) are correct and tight.
Most Cabs have two (2) sets of outputs:
If you discover that your cab is indeed faulty, I have one that I can donate to your cause.
Message me your email address. Unfortunately, I cannot respond through the messaging system but I will respond to you via email.
1971_Z28...today after work I am going to buy a saw and some boards to get going.
While you are buying tools a great addition is a Digital Multi Meter. An inexpensive one will suit your "current" needs (pun intended) and help you diagnose most DC power issues.
Another "tool" to add would be the "Complete Atlas Wiring Book".
This book outlines many DC wiring concepts and solutions.
Many will say it is nothing more than a showcase for Atlas products but it's also a valuable addition to your model railroading library.
Keep the questions coming and as always...
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
1971_Z28I took the old toy trains down to colonial hobbys over the weekend. The fellow at the counter told me they were not toy junk but I guess good quality stuff. That was good news I think my dad must have wanted better trains.
1971_Z28He tested everything out and all the engines ran then he showed me how to clean and take care of them.
Where is Colonial Hobbies? These guys deserve some business. Testing and cleaning engines they didn't sell is unheard of these days.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
MisterBeasley My "old toy trains" are from the fifties and early sixties. I took down my HO layout in the late sixties, as I had graduated from college and my parents wanted the room back. I packed everything up and moved it with me from apartment to apartment for over 30 years. I finally began building another layout in 2005. I pulled out all the trains. I had a lot to learn. DCC was fairly new, and my horn hook couplers were fairly old. The world had switched to nickel-silver track. And, there were a lot of negatives about those ancient plastic wheels. To my dismay, my old locomotives either didn't run at all or ran hesitantly. The first stage of my layout was a subway, so I got a subway train and went to work. Eventually, I got almost all the rolling stock running, inc!using replacing all the horn-hooks with Kadee knuckle couplers and body-mounting all that needed it. The plastic wheels were replaced with metal. I bought all new nickel-silver track. A few of the old engines became dummies. I couldn't throw away my old friends, even if they didn't work anymore. In the end, almost everything I carted around for 30 years ended up on my layout.
I have an old Varney that was my grandfathers. It has appeared on here too. Took a little work to get it going again.
SHane
jjdamnit Hello All, What great news! As has been posted, make sure the connections from your controller ("power pack", A.K.A. Cab) are correct and tight. Most Cabs have two (2) sets of outputs: DC or Track Power- -These two wires go to the track to power the locomotives. Ideally, you should use two different color wires. Traditionally the colors are Red (+) & Black (-) to identify polarity. There is a "Direction" switch on the Cab. This changes the polarity to the rails which in turn changes the direction of the locomotive.If the switch is set to "Forward" and the locomotive is running in the opposite direction you can swap the wires going to the track or turn the locomotive around to match the "Position" of the switch to the "direction" of the locomotive. AC or Accessories (Access)- -This is used to power remote-controlled turnouts (switches), lights, and/or powered accessories. DO NOT CONNECT THE TRACK TO THESE OUTPUTS! If you discover that your cab is indeed faulty, I have one that I can donate to your cause. Message me your email address. Unfortunately, I cannot respond through the messaging system but I will respond to you via email. 1971_Z28 ...today after work I am going to buy a saw and some boards to get going. While you are buying tools a great addition is a Digital Multi Meter. An inexpensive one will suit your "current" needs (pun intended) and help you diagnose most DC power issues. Another "tool" to add would be the "Complete Atlas Wiring Book". This book outlines many DC wiring concepts and solutions. Many will say it is nothing more than a showcase for Atlas products but it's also a valuable addition to your model railroading library. Keep the questions coming and as always... Hope this helps.
1971_Z28 ...today after work I am going to buy a saw and some boards to get going.
There is a discussion currently on multimeters in another thread.
Lastspikemike Yes, but there's a lot of resistance to rational discussion in that thread. Not a lot of continuity. And irrelevant high voltage disagreements. Some people apparently get really amp'd up about the topic of multi meters.
Yes, but there's a lot of resistance to rational discussion in that thread. Not a lot of continuity. And irrelevant high voltage disagreements. Some people apparently get really amp'd up about the topic of multi meters.
I wonder who caused that?Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
As I see it, the whole segue from buying "a saw and some boards" to purchasing a digital multimeter is a bit far-fetched. I wish the OP well, but I don't think that he is ready for a multimeter at this stage.
Rich
Alton Junction
I can't remember when I didn't own a saw. But the OP is enthusiastic, that will be a good start.
richhotrainAs I see it, the whole segue from buying "a saw and some boards" to purchasing a digital multimeter is a bit far-fetched. I wish the OP well, but I don't think that he is ready for a multimeter at this stage.
I am looking at it through a different lens...
LastspikemikeOnce you check the connections are correct and tight maybe suspect your powerpack. A new powerpack isn't that expensive...
How will the OP know if the power pack is truly faulty if he can't test it with a digital multimeter?
Inexpensive multimeters are typically available where you can buy...
1971_Z28...a saw and some boards...
Why not pick one up while you are at your local hardware store or home improvement center?
Unless you want to make endless trips to the same store!
Last time I checked my pike had both boards and electronics. Each requiring equal attention and different tools for efficient performance.
Unless someone has invented a saw that can read DC power.
The OP doesn't even own a saw. He has a steep enough learning curve before he needs to buy a multimeter to test a faulty power pack. He can take it to that same fellow at the counter at Colonial Hobbies for testing. Meanwhile, he will need a drill and screws, a hammer and nails, a screwdriver, a level, you name it.
The OP's avatar indicates he is a gearhead and likes 50 year old cars. I'll bet he has a multimeter.
Ken Patterson's schtick is "This is the best hobby in the world" One would never believe it reading this forum and I don't mean just this thread.
The OP's other thread was starting a layout with his kid. It's what my dad did with me and what I did with my sons and now grandsons. I applaud him for doing so, I am not ready to tell him he is doomed to failure for want of a saw.
BigDaddy I am not ready to tell him he is doomed to failure for want of a saw.
I am not ready to tell him he is doomed to failure for want of a saw.
richhotrainHe has a steep enough learning curve before he needs to buy a multimeter to test a faulty power pack.
Learning can take parallel paths to achieve knowledge of the whole.
It's disappointing to hear your condescension on seeking knowledge across "disciplines".
You can build all the benchwork you want, but if the electronics aren't aligned you've just made a lot of shelving!
Knowledge is attained at the expense of pride.
jjdamnit richhotrain He has a steep enough learning curve before he needs to buy a multimeter to test a faulty power pack. Learning can take parallel paths to achieve knowledge of the whole. It's disappointing to hear your condescension on seeking knowledge across "disciplines".
richhotrain He has a steep enough learning curve before he needs to buy a multimeter to test a faulty power pack.
Don't be so sensitive when someone offers a different opinion than your own. It is a forum, you know.
BigDaddyThe OP's avatar indicates he is a gearhead and likes 50 year old cars. I'll bet he has a multimeter....
In that case, probably a timing light, too.
I have a multimeter, but have never used it for my train layout. It earns its keep troubleshooting appliances.
Wayne
doctorwayne I have a multimeter, but have never used it for my train layout.
I have a multimeter, but have never used it for my train layout.
But, then, I operate my layout in DCC, and I rely on a pair of RRampMeters to test voltage and current.
LastspikemikeTesting a DC powerpack for voltage requires only a 12v lightbulb. Touch the connector wires to the appropriate spots on the bulb.
Lastspikemike Yes, but there's a lot of resistance to rational discussion in that thread. Not a lot of continuity. And irrelevant high voltage disagreements. Some people apparently get really amp'd up about the topic of multi meters. You'll have no idea what a multi meter can do if you just read that thread.....
Yes, but there's a lot of resistance to rational discussion in that thread. Not a lot of continuity. And irrelevant high voltage disagreements. Some people apparently get really amp'd up about the topic of multi meters. You'll have no idea what a multi meter can do if you just read that thread.....
I see what you did there. Dripping with puns. Shocking!
- Douglas
LastspikemikeJust pick up the bulb and touch the two wires to the two contact points on the body of the bulb.
But I should just let Mel discuss it because he's the one that had the idea that a bulb easily replaced in a socket with its own wires firmly attached was more useful...
LastspikemikeYou're not using your imagination, you have to set the throttle first, obviously.
In part this business with wires to bulbs not 'designed for them' goes back to bright college days, when Collins Radio made 'pure resistance' opto-isolated potentiometer control modules for radio mixdown boards. These were beautiful spun-aluminum things with careful etch that went in octal sockets like radio tubes. One went out, and we acknowledged that mere college techs were unlikely to know the ways of optoisolator modules, so we went so far as to arrange to have one couriered to Newark Airport (where we'd have to drive to pick it up). Then we thought, since we had the replacement arranged, it couldn't hurt to open it up and perhaps we could learn something about how real radio companies did these things.
We found out all right: the lines from the big pot knob controlled brightness of an ordinary flashlight bulb, which was pointed(inside the dark and sealed enclosure) at a Darlington acting as an electric eye. A bulb suspended from soldered-on leads, not in any kind of socket...
Adding insult to injury... the bulb was threaded.
Not quite on this level of silly overkill
But probably as far as you could go in that direction with an ordinary bulb..
Lastspikemike Testing a DC powerpack for voltage requires only a 12v lightbulb. Touch the connector wires to the appropriate spots on the bulb. To test the variable voltage throttle just turn that while the light bulb is lit.
Testing a DC powerpack for voltage requires only a 12v lightbulb. Touch the connector wires to the appropriate spots on the bulb. To test the variable voltage throttle just turn that while the light bulb is lit.
Being sensitive to raising issues that may otherwise die, some of the approaches suggested on the forum from time to time seem like overkill, and are probably intimidating to those folks just getting started. Keeping in mind that its important to take into account the specific situation of the person experiencing the problem.
The idea that DC equipment may or may not work correctly takes me back to my DC layout of a few years ago. It was J shaped, 35 x 13 x13 that operated point to point.
Because I did not want to extend a wall outlet mid-layout or install a bus wire, that DC powerpack was on one end of the layout, meaning the farthest point was 61 feet away.
And because I never knew for sure that I wasn't ever going to install a new industry, a new turnout, or rework the main line a bit to accomodate, I never soldered the track.
The layout operated only by two wires at one end and unsoldered railjoiner connections throughout. I operated it for years that way. (when I switched to DCC/sound I installed a bus/feeders and soldered all joints)
About foot 45 of 61, the locomotive (all of them when swapped out) began to slow down. I strongly assumed voltage was being lost through the loose joiner connections over too long of a distance.
My solution? Turn up the throttle.
Throughout those years, the thought of soldering the joints or installing a bus nastily crept into my thinking once in a while.
Thankfully, my strongest personality trait, laziness (no doubt derived from apathy), successfully beat back and subdued the obsessive trait that would have compelled me to deviate from the common sense solution and would have had me go through a lot of work for no reason. (afterall, I'd be turning down the throttle to 0 before the train hit foot 61).
Over the years, the battle between my obsessiveness and common sense, for which laziness had to step in and arbitrate, never once motivated me to ask, "what is the exact voltage of the track at foot 45? 52? 59.5?", since the possible solutions wouldn't have changed with that new knowledge gained.
It seems as though this thread has wandered away from its original topic to disparaging the contents of and participants in another thread. So I'm locking this one. If you want to talk about what's going on in the multimeter thread, go post on the multimeter thread.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com