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Foam board

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  • Member since
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Foam board
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 7:09 PM
I see a lot of people using foam under their layouts and would like to give it a try on my next. Could any one tell me whats the best kind of foam to use (type or brand) or is just any rigid foam good for the job?
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  • From: Mexico
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Posted by egmurphy on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 8:03 PM
Most are using the extruded styrofoam insulation produced by either Dow (the blue stuff) or Owens-Corning (the pink stuff).

I've got the blue Dow product. On the side it says "Residential Foam Insulation Sheathing". It's usually found at stores like Lowes, Home Depot, or other building supply places.

Most people do not use the beaded white styrofoam insulation, although there are some who do use this for some of their substrata.


Regards

Ed
The Rail Images Page of Ed Murphy "If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home." - James Michener
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 8:42 PM
Around here, all we can get is the pink stuff. The pink and blue are basically the same thing, just one is made by Dow (blue) and one is Owens-Corning (pink - like the Pink Panther ads they run).


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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  • From: Montreal
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Posted by CFournier on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 8:51 PM
Stay away from the white beaded foam board, it is a mess to cut or work with. You will have those little white beads everywhere around the house and on you!
If you have to cut it, do it outside...
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  • From: Southwest US
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Posted by Bikerdad on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 8:52 PM
Blue or pink, both are equally useful. There is also some tan extruded foam available, check with your local theater or movie set builder.

In the event you live in an area with limited availability of both the blue and pink extruded foam (i.e. the Sunbelt), do not despair. Find a commercial insulation supplier, they usually have extruded foam available. You can use white "beadboard" (expanded polystyrene) for scenic purposes, but it isn't as good as the extruded, makes more of a mess (yes, it IS possible), and has less structural strength.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 30, 2005 5:33 PM
What's the best kind of glue to glue the foam down with? Also to glue the track to the foam?
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 30, 2005 5:48 PM
hi the blue works best
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Posted by jhoff310 on Sunday, January 30, 2005 5:50 PM
A thin bead of latex caulk works great for gluing down the foam, it also works great for track. Elmers glue is just as great. ***When gluing foam make sure you peel off the thin plastic moisture barrier***
Jeff
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 30, 2005 5:50 PM
chek this months magazine article track and riockes 4 turtle creek
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 30, 2005 5:50 PM
Hi,

Are there any UK equivalents of these foams because I can't find any here?
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  • From: Madison County, KY
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Posted by skerber on Monday, January 31, 2005 9:55 AM
I just about finished glueing down a lot of foam on my table. I found the Elmer's Wood Glue to be an excellent product. I glued the foam to the wood with the Elmer's, and foam to foam with Elmer's also. The wood glue is so strong that the only way to remove the foam would be to break it! The elmer's wood glue dried over night.

Hope this is helpful.
Steve
http://skerber.rrpicturearchives.net/
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  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
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Posted by bogp40 on Tuesday, February 1, 2005 9:17 PM
Another good adhesive for bonding foam is to use ceramic tile cement. Cleans up with water, will not attack the foam, has great initial tack, unbeleivable bond and dries overnight. Just remember to use a notched trowel or putty knife, the air pockets give the suction for initial hold and allows air to be trapped for speedy drying. I have removed foam that had been glued w/ latex liquid nail, after 2 weeks some of the glue was still not completely dry. If using liquid nail, on large areas, spread with the same method of a notched trowel this will speed drying. The layout I work on is L girder/ pine riser and spline, with most scenery hardshell over wire screen. foam is used only for scenery and a few areas are carved foam. The ceramic tile cement works great for the layered cake approach to scenery construction. Save all those small pieces of foam you never know when you will need them. Scraps are used for temparary supports for shaping the wire screening to hold the weight of the first layer of plaster. Hope this can help on some of the layouts.
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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