New Guy needs help

[Anonymous]

Hi there. I know it probably would have been just as easy to search for what I need but I didn't know where to start! Anyway, I am new to the model train hobby, I'm 31 and pretty much all of my life have wanted to get into I just never had the right situation. Now I do and I bought a Bachman train set and EZ track and my 4' x 8' plywood. I saw some pictures of people's layouts that had a layer of foam over the plywood, is that the best way to do it? I bought woodland scenics' scenery kit and they didn't mention it but I was thinking of it before I saw the photo. Does anyone have any good starting tips with EZ track? should I keep it or use regular track? Thanks for everyones help in advance and I look forward to being a productive member!

Ryan

[cwclark]

I'd get rid of the easy track and use the flex track in the 3' sections... for roadbed, the cork strips, styrafoam, or homasote work well...the problem with easy track is that it isn't forgiving when you want to fudge a curve or get the track into an oddball radius due to lack of space or something like that..it's a preset radius and will only give you an exact radius...another thing,..liven up your layout by "cookie cutting" the sheet of plywood...a train layout on a flat board is boring...if you cookie cut the plywood so that the track can rise and fall... the layout will look better and more prototype ...even in Kansas there are hills and dales that aren't as flat as a sheet of plywood...your best bet is to get a few kalmbach publications on building model railroads...get the books that give you the instructions necessary for benchwork, wiring, and scenery and study them before you dive into building the layout...they will save you a lot of grief later if and when..(and you WILL) run into specific problems of building the layout...and by the way..welcome to the forum..there are a lot of people here that have been in the hobby for years and quite good and experienced at what they do...this is a good place to learn stuff about the hobby...chuck

[SpaceMouse]

I am new and building an EZ track layout for my son. The only reason I am going through with it and not switching to flex is I already have about $200 invested in the track. For my bigger layout, I'm going flex. If you only have your starter loop, sell it on eBay and switch to flex before you get too far.

[Anonymous]

welcome to the show. as of yesterday i am also a new modeler and member. I posted almost the same question. is it best to use foam board under the track and glue it ,or is it better to use plywood and nail the track.? I am working in n scale. thanks for any advice

[Anonymous]

Ok, so cookie cutter layout (hopefully I don't ruin my board!) and sell the ez track. I figured that as soon as I saw "EZ" that usually means no good. Does that also mean I need to sell the controller too? or will that work with flex track? THANKS AGAIN!

[cwclark]

the controller will work...just change the track

[cwclark]

QUOTE: Originally posted by fishingfan

is it best to use foam board under the track and glue it ,or is it better to use plywood and nail the track.? I am working in n scale. thanks for any advice

it is your choice...I'm in HO and go with the old stuff that i've been doing for years..i nail my track and it is mounted on "cookie cut " plywood for subroadbed...the new way is to glue it to foamboard..either way,... they both will work...I catch a lot of flack over nailing my track on plywood but in the end...after my ballast is glued along the track, it's not going anywhere anyway as if I glued it down in the begining.......I also use 3/4" plywood which i catch flack over too..but as I mentioned..in the end,... i'll have a very sturdy sub-roadbed and the 3/4" plywood looks outstanding after the scenery is done...it's just a matter of choice..there is no "best " way...chuck

[leighant]

Another suggestion about cookie-cutting. The track doesn't necessarily need to go up and down to make it interesting. But the ground goes up and down, even when not in exaggerated mountains and valleys. A countryside may be rolling and rr civil engineers try to keep track as level as possible, cut down a little of a higher hill and let track run through a cut a little lower than ground level....and use what is cut out to build a fill where track is on an embankment a little above general lay of the land at that particular point. Ditches a little below track level. Streams and drainage below track level. Actually, this could be a way of "cheating", keeping track at about same level-- simpler to keep reliable, etc. but making impression of rolling scenery.

[rrinker]

I don't think that's cheating at all. The real railroads try to keep things as level as possible, withint he limits of engineering the cuts and fills vs the cost of slower traffic on a steeper grade, so why shouldn't we build models that way? If you don't overdo it, having the ground go up and down while the train stays level is more realistic. Not to mention, as you said, easier to build and more reliable.

Don't forget, the original poster is kinda new at this, let's not scare him away with complicated stuff. Start simple and work up. You don't have to build the F&SM on your first time out.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Good morning,
I went to Home Depot last night and got some foam board (the pink stuff) Thanks for everyone's help! I glued it down last night with Elmer's glue but I'm not too sure if it's very strong. I read somewhere that liquid nails was not a good adhesive so I went with the Elmer's. i also bought (hopefully from ebay) some flex track so I think I'm going in the right direction!

[Anonymous]

I was talking to one of the specialists at Caboose Hobbies in Denver about setting up an N-Scale layout with my 6 year old grandson. We were talking about laying track and using the cork roadbed. He recommended going to Home Depot and getting the clear silicon caulk and laying down a bead and spreading it with a spatula to set the roadbed. You can then do the same thing to set the track. He said it holds good and if you make a mistake it is easy to get up. Sounded good since I want my grandson to be involved and showing him how to recover from mistakes is a good learing situation.

[rrinker]

That's exactly how I am doing my layout, but I would recommend getting the clear LATEX caulk, not silicon. Some people say they have used the silicon with no problems, but you might have trouble getting ballast to adhere to it. Plus the latex doesn;t smell as bad, and is cheaper. The latex caulk I bought at HD has a brand name like Polyseam or something. It comes out white, but is totally clear when dry. Great stuff.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Like mentioned above about the Kalmbach publications. Instead of going out and buying a bunch of books, just head down to the local library, and check them out first. That way you can look through them them first, before spending the $$$$ to buy them. Anyway thats what I have been doing now.

Just a thought.....

[Anonymous]

Glueing down foam board. Liquid Nails makes a product that you can use on foam board.
Go to www.liquidnails.com and check the projects file (left side) . The product is Foamboard and Projects Adhesive (LN-604). I have used this for several years and it works well. Elmers white glue will soften if it gets wet, or if it collects condensation, and will release over time. Elmers yellow carpenters glue is better.