Hello,
I am new to the HO model railroading world, and am planning a temporary track only layout to run DCC trains and to learn more. I am using Kato HO Unitrack, because I like the look of it and find it easy to use for a neewb like me. Again this is a temporary layout, I am using XTrackCAD software to design the track and I am trying to build a double-track dog-bone reversing loop, but I am having trouble finding the right track so it all connects nicely. I managed to make a wye reversing section.
I want the distance for the double track to be the one provided by the Kato HV4 (3-114) and I am using Kato 2-230 670mm (26 3/8") Radius 22.5º Curve Track
Any help and advice is relly appreciated!
Thank you so much,
Stay safe
Erik
I see an S-curve situation with the the top of the crossover. I would move the crossover forward so you would have a straight piece of trackage as long as your longest car/loco.
I think the OP's dilemma is there is not matching piece of track to fill the gap.
Having only used flextrack and not roadbed track, I have nothing to contribute.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Hello All,
BigDaddyI think the OP's dilemma is there is not matching piece of track to fill the gap.
My suggestion would be to move the crossover turnouts ("S" curve) farther to the left in the diagram and add a section of straight track between the turnouts.
This will move the curved section of the ballon track farther apart so a single piece of track can fill the gap.
BigDaddyHaving only used flextrack and not roadbed track, I have nothing to contribute.
The OPs delima seems to be a product of using track with built-in plastic roadbed.
I use sectional track and DIY flex track so I can avoid these situations.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
jjdamnitThe OPs delima seems to be a product of using track with built-in plastic roadbed. I use sectional track and DIY flex track so I can avoid these situations.
I commented in the Diner that I am weary of the replies to legitimate questions about alternatives in modeling, where the answer is I don't do it that way and neither should you. Lots of people use Kato and EZ track and are happy campers. Those folks need to step up with an answer.
If none of the KATO straight sections are the correct length, it should be possible to cut a longer section to length to fill the gap. The plastic clip that holds the sections together would have to be removed on the section adjoining the cut and standard metal joiners used on the rails.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
If none of the KATO straight sections are the correct length, it should be possible to cut a longer section to length to fill the gap. The plastic clip that holds the sections together would have to be removed on the section adjoining the cut and standard metal joiners used on the rails. I have done that with N scale KATO track.
Kato makes HO Unitrack straight sections in 60mm, 94mm, 114mm, 123mm, 149mm, 174mm (and longer) segments. Quite a wide variety.
It looks to me like the solution lies in experimentation.
That means seeing how close you can get in "filling the gap". Maybe one of the availble sizes will fit right in.
If that doesn't work, it might be necessary to shorten the "intermediate straight sections" equally on either side of the curve, or perhaps ADD a little length, so that "the gap" grows either slightly shorter (or longer) to the point where all the pieces fit together.
If you can get to, say, 1/16" either way, that oughtta be "enough"...
OldEnginemanit might be necessary to shorten the "intermediate straight sections" equally on either side of the curve, or perhaps ADD a little length, so that "the gap" grows either slightly shorter (or longer) to the point where all the pieces fit together.
My inclination also was to shorten one of the 3 pieces of straight track on the upper and lower left side of the loop. It would be nice to solve it that way, to have a continuous curve, rather than add a length of straight track at the right IMHO.
Does XTrackCAD show all 5 straight track lengths as options to choose? You might check that for both the wooden tie and concrete tie Kato track inventory in XTrackCAD, if there are separate components for the different types.
If the XTrackCAD Kato inventory is lacking all the pieces actually available, I believe you can separate and connect the whole right hand curve section as one moveable segment. Then eliminate a piece of straight track (upper and lower) on the left. Then move the curve segment until it lines up properly with the left components, but with upper and lower gaps between the left arrangement and right curved segment. Then draw in straight connection pieces (upper and lower), like a piece of flex track. I think you can then click on your drawn connection pieces and XTrackCAD will tell you the details (including length) of that piece. Hopefully it will be close enought to one of the 5 straight pieces available.
I last used XTrackCAD in 2012, so I'm worse than rusty on the details.
Let us know what you discover as a solution. It's interesting.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
OldEnginemanKato makes HO Unitrack straight sections in 60mm, 94mm, 114mm, 123mm, 149mm, 174mm (and longer) segments. Quite a wide variety. It looks to me like the solution lies in experimentation.
Yes, 100% correct. Experimentation will get a solution faster than CAD will.
The filler piece does not need to be exact, +/- 5/8" will be just fine. The solution is there. Just buy a few short pieces and see what works.
I have hundreds of pieces of HO scale unitrack, and it is has forgiveness and tolerance built into the system for things like this.
Another solution is to substitutes a few pieces of the next-larger radius curve sections into the loop near the gap.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
One thing folks who are unfamiliar with Kato Unitrack don't understand is that the straight track lengths aren't random, each is meant to allow you to do a specific thing like add a passing siding or do a yard ladder track. Their website - and the info included with their No. 6 switches - explain a lot of this:
http://www.katousa.com/PDF/plans/HO-plan-6-manual.pdf
http://www.katousa.com/HO/Unitrack/g-single.html
That being said...yes, sometimes in an unusual situation you have to experiment a bit. It usually is best to buy some of each length of the straight sections to have on hand. (Note that sometimes you can only get the correct length by combining straight tracks.)
Thank you everyone for your help!
I did find an N scale equivalent with Kato Unitrack:
Link
The turnout manual is so res it is very hard to read the diagrams