I'm going to use standard hardboard for fascia. What is good way to paint it?Spray can? Brush? Latex paint? What's the best way to get it applied?
Thanks!
Mine is fabric covered.
IMG_0759 by Edmund, on Flickr
Some Discussion here:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/286701.aspx?page=1
Good Luck, Ed
Chris,
I cut my fascia to fit out of 1/4 inch birch plywood and then removed it for painting. These were all flat pieces and I used Kilz primer and a top coat of interior latex enamel. Both were applied with a brush although I could have used a small roller.
Joe
My fascia is just typical masonite type. I painted it with latex flat paint, using a roller & brush. Pretty standard I'd guess. EDIT: Reviewing this, I realize that I used our wall paint on hand, which is satin, sage color.
IMG_7176 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
RR Trees 2 by wp8thsub, on Flickr
RR Trees 2
I countersunk all the fasteners, filled the holes, and painted the fascia with latex paint and a roller. I got a smooth finish with no brush marks.
Rob Spangler
Painted mine with good ol' semi-gloss latex and a brush. Attached it with coutersunk phillips head screws and finishing washers.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
ChrisVAI'm going to use standard hardboard for fascia. What is good way to paint it? Spray can? Brush? Latex paint? What's the best way to get it applied?
Chris, I have never used hardboard for a fascia, but we have used it for CosPlay props.
To make it hold paint, we hit the smooth side with 120 grit sandpaper to take off the shine and get a little "tooth" on the surface. Then we primed it with Kilz Original oil based primer. That worked with excellent results and the paint would go on smooth and be permanent and rugged.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I used a brush and an oops paint that was close enough to the green I wanted. Looked just fine...to me. The image shows it with just the initial coat:
Thanks for all of the feedback.
I did a small trial with 1/8" masonite and painted it with Krylon Paintmaster from a can, but got a "gritty" surface, which I wanted to be smooth.
The consensus seems to be flat or semi-gloss, brush-painted or roller. Also, possibly some pre-sanding so it sticks better to the smooth side.
I'm looking for the classic look, Hunter Green, no peeling off.
Thanks
For my layout's edge and fascia, I used a good quality black satin latex paint. I brushed it on, and it blended w/o brushmarks or the like. The result was - to me - as good as it gets.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
My fascia is MDF painted with a roller. I like the texture that the roller produces.
ChrisVAI'm looking for the classic look, Hunter Green, no peeling off.
It looks like green is the most popular color.
I agree, it looks good to me.
You really don't have to prime masonite. My backdrop is masonite with a flat finish. I did a test peice to make sure the masonite was the same surface finish on this layout as last and it was. Had this test banging around the shop for some tim e and was surprised at how well it held up. I notice a lot of overkill in this hobby, benchwork that could suport a 400lb person walking on it etc.
Used masonite hardboard. No sanding, no priming. Benjamin Moore flat latex wall paint-with-primer-built-in. Applied with a small (not mini) roller. Slow strokes to eliminate spittle spatter. No brush strokes. Color: Dry Sage. I don't know if Wyoming has an official state plant, but if we did, it'd be dried up sage brush. There are photos in my layout build thread.
I cannot figure out how using spray paint (rattle can or otherwise) in the layout room would work. Unless a ton of masking is used, the overspray would be a significant issue.
Just my opinion, of course.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
rrebell You really don't have to prime masonite. My backdrop is masonite with a flat finish. I did a test peice to make sure the masonite was the same surface finish on this layout as last and it was. Had this test banging around the shop for some tim e and was surprised at how well it held up. I notice a lot of overkill in this hobby, benchwork that could suport a 400lb person walking on it etc.
Well, I'm a 240 lb person, and I need climbable benchwork, at least during construction phases. With most areas 4 feet deep, even with hatches and some rear access, benchwork needs to be strong.
Built one shelf layout, never again, not happy with the scenic effect.
And while I understand why some like it, I will not be using masonite either.
Sheldon
Count me in for green color using house paint from HD. Even better if can get it off the "oops" table. I paint it using a roller and two coats. Pretty easy effort.
I like a very dark color for my fascias and overhead valances in flat or satin. Not a black but very dark. I used a brown/gray color called Seal. This way the fascia is not a distraction from the scenery. With all lights hidden behind valences the layout scenery just kind of glows and floats in space with room lights off.
I'm not surprised most like green for their fascia, while I prefer satin black. I had given green (and even brown) some thought, but the greens reminded me of the generic classrooms of my Chicago youth in the '50s........ nuff said.
When a neighbor remodeled his son's room, he gave me the paneling that was in it. I had more than enough to use as the fascia for my layout. Because it has texture in it, I had to put two coats of green paint to cover it completely.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
1/8 in Masonite or hardboard, attached with drywall screws and finish washers, painted with 2 coats of satin black latex wall paint using a brush and small roller.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
A spray can will make a mess... At the club, we primed it first with a roller, and did the bulk of the painting outdoors, before installation. I think primer generally accelerates the process and provides a more durable finish.
On that topic, one thing we did not do at the club is to install grab bars on the side for people to lean on. You can't believe how many people "lean" on things when standing... That really wrecks the fascia and anything close to it on the layout. I'm also thinking of installing small shelves in front of key points, i.e., where people put their rolling stock on the track. I observed that people put their rolling stock temporarilly on scenery sections when they put on or off their rolling stock from the layout. A small shelf hooked on the fascia (with proper reinforcements) might prevent that.
Simon