Trucks on N scale cars

[Anonymous]

This is what works for me, and, boy, is it cheap and quick! Round or square toothpicks! Just jam them in slowly and carefully. They come in many different sizes, just look around. Top it off with quick dry epoxy, CA, what have you, just make sure it's quick dry. This forms a substitute for a screw head. Easy to remove too, and you don't need special tools. If the hole is too big, you can do the plastic tube routine first, or do what i do and use 2 picks side by side. Cut the points as needed to get a workable length.
The only disadvantage i can see is that if the car needs more weight, metal screws would help incrementally. Sometimes domestic stuff that's right under your nose is easier and faster to work with, than wasting time and gas getting to an LHS for some tiny contraption which may not be in stock anyway. Thin wood dowels might work better, but i don't have any on hand.
HOWEVER, i AM looking for one kind of tiny contraption, and that is a series of different sizes of washers that will fit all the different size depressions around the hole in all the different brands of trucks. It's not easy getting the right height. I mean TINY washers. Accumates seem to give me the most height problems. I'll have to check out the hob-its, but something tells me i may have to scrounge around electronics outlets.

[Anonymous]

You can buy new pins...Microtrains #312032 (Walthers:489-312032). The screw idea will not allow the trucks to float. One truck should rotate and not pivot, the other truck should be allowed to pivot. This is the way it should be in HO also but in N this is by design. After taking off the trucks look at the underside of the car. One side has protrusions that keep one of the trucks from pivoting. If you MUST use screws then use a countersunk head or don't tighten all the way to allow the one end to pivot. Good luck.

[jahauck]

GimpLizard offers the most practical solution. I've done this, in HO scale, many times. Suggested screw sizes? It would depend on thruck mounting or "through" whole. Screw should fall into one of these four sizes: 2-56, 1-72, 0-80, 00-90. After the tubing has been fitted into the floor and cemented and flush cut tap the styrene tubing with the appropriate TAP.

[GimpLizard]

I'd like to help, but I've never replaced the pins with screws either.

I would think you could epoxy, or CA, some Evergreen tubing, of the proper size, into the hole, and then tape for the appropriate size screw. Sorry, I'm not sure what size that screw should be, but you take a truck, and/or bolster pin, to your LHS and use to find one that will work.

[DSchmitt]

A small brass screw of the type sold at some hobby shops under the Hob-Bits brand name should work . Look at both the machine screws and wood screws. They also sell washers if the screw head is too small to hold the truck. There are may some where the threads will bite into the sides of the hole and short enough so they don't need to be cut off.

I have never replaced the pins on any of my 1000 + N scale cars with screws, but have used Hob-Bits and Everygreen Styrene tubes in the conversion of 3-rail O scale to 2-rail.

For Hob-Bits search the Woodland Scenics site for screws:

http://www.woodlandscenics.com/

[Anonymous]

In the same boat come on guys help us out

[Cox 47]

I am a long time *** now trying to work in N. How do you best plug the holes and use screws to mount trucks? What size screws, self tapping and where do you get something that small? The plastic pins don't seem to hold after being removed a couble of times. There has to be a better way. I have some Model Power, concor, and others I'd like to work over and change to KD type couplers. Thanks Cox 47