Here is a little background reference, with tables of different materials and the kinds of lubricant that are compatible:
https://www.machinedesign.com/archive/article/21818508/ensuring-plastic-and-lubricant-compatibility
https://www.ecllube.com/resources-for-engineers/tutorials/ECL_Tips%20on%20Lubricating%20Plastics.pdf
I've always used white lithium grease (which is also available in spray-can form) or silicone grease for ABS, which is what I think the Walthers parts are molded in. I certainly wouldn't have a problem using Labelle 106. Part of the issue is that the lubricant shouldn't break down, gum, or dry out over time -- it's not just solvent-style attack of the plastic that's of concern.
I have used the green PTFE-loaded bearing grease on ABS and hard nylon in the past, but I never tracked its long-term longevity...
The Milwaukee Road WarriorMark, do you have a suggestion for "plastic compatible grease"? I am a novice in this area, other than the Molykote silicone lube I use to seal my whole-house in-line water filter system every three months when I change out the filter, I don't have any experience with this sort of product.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Lastspikemike Labelle 106 grease is plastic compatible.
Labelle 106 grease is plastic compatible.
My bad, I should have just looked in my Walthers catalog before asking the question. When I did I noted Labelle grease for plastic and some other brands. My LHS carries Labelle stuff so I will go with that.
Andy
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Milwaukee native modeling the Milwaukee Road in 1950's Milwaukee.
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I may be mistaken, but my understanding is that 'white', 'lithium' greases are intended for filters (often plastic, in-line), pipe fittings such a quick-disconnect with o-rings, etc, and for other plastics usage...among other uses. Petroleum bearing and axle greases are usually substantially different and obvious. Green, blue, gray, maybe some in yellow?, but I have seen none in white.
Mark, do you have a suggestion for "plastic compatible grease"? I am a novice in this area, other than the Molykote silicone lube I use to seal my whole-house in-line water filter system every three months when I change out the filter, I don't have any experience with this sort of product.
Since I have the Walthers DC motor to drive my TT and the motor sits beneath the "shell" I have to use something more viscous and not watery; something that won't run right down the stem and into the motor housing.
OK, I will try the lubricant. I've got several LaBelle types laying around. Thanks!
Moving parts, especially rotating ones, will not suffer from the sparing application of an appropriate lubricant, unless you're inhibiting a built-in lubricant from functioning properly (like a teflon-impregnated composite bearing that you add grease to, for example).
If the turntable has the electrical wipers at the bottom of the bridge stem, like my older one has, then don't use a powdered lubricant like teflon or graphite. The teflon my interfere with the electrical conductivity between the fingers and the rings, and if you're unlucky the graphite may work its way onto the circular contact ring and cause a short (unlikely, but still...).
Probably best to use a very small amount of plastic-compatible grease. Apply it in one or two places on the bridge shaft or the pit bushing inner wall and place the bridge into position while turning it until the drive teeth are almost engaged, then lower the bridge the rest of way into place.
Let the mechnism rotate the bridge all the way around a few times each way to spread the grease. That should help.
(I'm a retired mechanical / structural engineer. I dealt with machinery lubrication issues from time to time)
You will almost certainly find it improving over time as the surfaces 'ride up with wear'. However, in order to help that along and not incur more inappropriate wear, I would routinely clean the two mating surfaces to get rid of powdered plastic or whatever resulting abrasion there might be. If you'd rather improve it sooner than later, try Dexron III Mercon auto transmission fluid, just a half drop and let those surfaces spread it, or even hobby white grease. Use just enough to notice an improvement in noise, current draw, or both.
I have not installed my 90' Walthers TT yet, but I've built enough of it to know that I have the same issue. The center stem seems to be slightly beveled so that it sits progressively more tightly into the hole. It still does not rotate completely freely even after I used a sanding pad on my Dremel to thin out the ends of the bridge at the bogies. That helped a lot, but, like you, I find myself wondering if there is some sort of lubricant that can be placed on the stem.. It almost seems that the design should incorporate a sealed bearing of some sort. I wonder about something as simple as axle grease or Crisco.
I've been building a new layout over the last year. In december, got around to the engine yard, installed my old 130' turntable knowing it was a bit wonky, thinking "I should get the new one before I install all these approach tracks over the edge!". I did not, and Murphy's law a month later the controller wonks out. So I buy and install the new model.
Overall it runs very smooth, but the central cylindper fits very tight in the center hole of the table. It rotates smoothly, and keeps its programmed stops, but you can hear a strain at that pivot. Has anyone ever used a plastic safe lubricant on that pivot point? Or will that mess something up?