Nice layout Hornblower! My needs are different as my future layout will be a single deck. No need, IMO, to build a new wall to the ceiling for a single deck + Sheldon's recommendation for the lift up gate. A partial wall could be used to support a backdrop and a light duty valence (LED lighting). I'll probably go with l-girder benchwork + partial wall for the backdrop + tapcons & Sheldon's recommendation.
The answer is SHEAR STRENGTH! My garage layout has an "out-and-back" double-cantilevered double-level central peninsula about 12 feet long that ends about three feet from my sectional garage door. The framing is a central backbone stud wall constructed from 2x4's carefully ripped down to a true 3 inches using a LLLooonnngg rip fence to ensure their straightness. The bottom plate of the stud wall is glued to the concrete floor with the end of the peninsula connected to the rest of the layout screwed to an overhead storage loft. The other end of the peninsula could not be connected to the garage framing above as the sectional garage door opens and stores above that end. I added a plywood brace spanning between the top of the peninsula and the garage roof framing above where the garage door stops but it provided surprisingly little stiffening as it is near the center of the stud wall. I asked my father (an architect) how I might strengthen the peninsula structure so the less supported end wouldn't move around so much. Knowing I intended to add backdrops made from 1/4" thick drywall panels, he suggested I glue these panels to the studs instead of just using nails/screws as this would provide significant shear strength and resistance to twisting. I ran a bead of adhesive caulk along the face of each stud and the top plate prior to nailing each backdrop panel to the studs. I added backdrop panels to both sides of the peninsula as both sides are exposed. Once the caulking cured, WOW what a difference! The free end of the peninsula can barely be moved now and that's when you try to move it. It is even strong enough now that I can grab the cantilevered lower level benchwork to hoist myself (220 lbs.) up off the floor when necessary.
The photo shows one side of the peninsula early in the construction stage but after the drywall backdrops had been glued in place. The "free" end of the peninsula is nearest the camera. The backdrops were added to both levels but not underneath the lower level (note the exposed studs). If I needed it, I could have added even more shear strength by applying shear panels under the lower level. If you don't want to use 1/4" drywall, 3/16" plywood or 1/8" tempered hardboard would also work.
The photo shows one side of the peninsula early in the construction stage but after the drywall backdrops had been glued in place. The "free" end of the peninsula is nearest the camera. The backdrops were added to both levels but not underneath the lower level (note the exposed studs). If I needed it, I could have added even more shear strength by applying shear panels under the lower level.
If you don't want to use 1/4" drywall, 3/16" plywood or 1/8" tempered hardboard would also work.
Hornblower
IDRick Sheldon, you've discussed your new layout several times. I hope you will be able to have a construction thread in the forum with lots of pictures. I am sure many readers will enjoy seeing your work! Idaho is along ways away from MD but I would love to see it! Thanks for your assistance!
Sheldon, you've discussed your new layout several times. I hope you will be able to have a construction thread in the forum with lots of pictures. I am sure many readers will enjoy seeing your work! Idaho is along ways away from MD but I would love to see it!
Thanks for your assistance!
You are most welcome, glad to help.
Yes, my plan is to share the construction progress. Have you seen my thread with the track plan, which also explains the layout concept?
Well, if all goes well, there might be something to see in a year or two. And if the pandemic ends, we are known for a really great train show near here, not to mention the Strasburg Railroad, and two great railroad museums nearby. Might be worth a vacation.
Sheldon
IDRick Sheldon, My carpenter skills would have to be called beginnerish but as I understand your comment, you're not asking for highly skilled carpentry with your solution. I do have an impact drill. How many tapcons should I put in the sills? Can the tapcons be removed and the holes in the concrete patched in the future? Thanks!
Sheldon,
My carpenter skills would have to be called beginnerish but as I understand your comment, you're not asking for highly skilled carpentry with your solution. I do have an impact drill. How many tapcons should I put in the sills? Can the tapcons be removed and the holes in the concrete patched in the future? Thanks!
Yes, the Tapcons can be removed and only leave a small hole easily filled.
One Tapcon every 12 to 16 inches, depending on the size of your walls and peninsula.
IDRick,
Not sure what your carpentry experiance level is, and I don't have a fast easy way to draw and post drawings, but the answer is pretty simple.
If the end of the peninsula needs to anchor a lift up or lift out, build three 2x4 walls, attached to each other in a U shape as the support for the end of your peninsula.
Put them together with 2-1/2" or 3" construction screws, add some diagonal bracing, and Tapon the sill plates to the floor.
And, I have to agree with your design philosophy, east bound trains should go east, west bound trains west, they should not just go around a loop and head back.
My new layout will not have reverse loops on the mainline. When viewing trains on my layout, you will be "inside" the circle and always viewing the trains looking north. Left is always west, right is always east, making it easy for guest operators to understand the flow of trains.
Only my small WESTERN MARYLAND branch line will have a hidden reverse loop for restaging trains.
The mainline will have a wye junction to a staging yard and the wye will be used to turn trains for restaging when necessary.
You do raise a good point about considering return loops but, respectfully, there is a problem. I do not like them nor do not want them. Easy access and linear walk-around design are two gotta haves for me. Return loops take up a lot of real estate and access can be challenging. I prefer scenery in a linear design over linear plus trying to disguise two return loops. Your suggestion is a good one, just does not fit within my gotta haves.
I've been bouncing between various layout plans. At the moment, I'm leaning toward a 21' by 9' layout (makes full use of available RR space). The west side would be a 2 ft wide by 21-foot shelf and the east side is a 4-1/2 ft wide by 21 ft long peninsula. I'm shooting for 24-inch curves as I'm running 4 axle diesels and 60' or shorter freight cars. I want to run the layout as a point to point and also want continuous running for railfanning.
To achieve continuous running, I would need to add a lift gate which will receive significant use (the east side of layout is staging) during operation. How do I keep the peninsula stationary (necessary for flawless operation of liftgate)? I'm thinking I could use tapcons but not sure how to appropriately construct the layout/floor connection. Does anyone have tips/advice? Thanks