Hi folks,
IDRick suggested that I do a 'Cliff Notes' (Coles Notes for us Canadians) version of my now very long winded thread about building a layout on a rotisserie, so here goes:
Here is the original (actually second original) thread:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/281323.aspx?page=30
The original premise was to figure out a way to be able to get at the underside of my layout without crawling on the floor or otherwise having to squeeze my 6'2" frame with a partially fused spine under the layout to do the wiring and Tortoise installations, etc. I also wanted to have the layout low enough that I could operate it from a seated position, again because of my back problems.
The original thread is approaching 900 posts and has had just over 44,000 views so it is getting a bit lengthy and it would be unreasonable to expect anyone to follow through from the beginning if they had just discovered the thread. Here is the condensed version minus all the segues from the original topic.
The layout is 5'4" x 12'. The size was chosen to make the best use of standard sheeting materials. The width is exactly 2/3 rds of a standard 4' x 8' sheet. Two full sized sheets therefore covers an area of 5'4" x 12'. No waste. Minimal cutting, and the size fits my available space in my garage perfectly.
The layout is standard box frame construction using 1x4s with a center spine made of a 1x6 and two 1x8s. The layout benchwork is mounted on two end panels made of 3/4" plywood with 4" castors using two rotating brackets so that the layout proper can be tilted to almost 90 degrees each way.
Here are some pictures that will better explain the assembly:
The benchwork was built in two halves that were then joined together along the central spine. The spacing of the cross members is not equal. I have positioned them to try to avoid conflicts with the Tortoise motor postions.
Here is the center spine which is designed to reduce the flexibility of the benchwork and to provide a mounting point for the pivots.
Here are the two halves attached to the center spine.
Here are the basic end panels. The end panels are connected by a second spine to keep them in line with each other. The layout is locked in place at whatever angle is appropriate by large clevis pins through holes drilled into the benchwork and at various positions in the end frames. I originally tried using barrel bolts but they were too sloppy to hold the benchwork still.
Here are the pivot points.
The castors will allow me to roll the layout around in the garage to get access to both sides. Once I have the garage cleared of all of the junk that is in it I will be able to position the layout so that I can get at all four sides. The castors will also allow me to roll the layout out onto the driveway when I do the desperately needed refinish of the garage floor.
Here is the layout benchwork being rotated:
The benchwork has been covered with a layer of 1/4" luan plywood. The plywood is intended to provide a solid surface into which I can screw the Tortoise machines and the various electrical ternimal strips etc.
On top of the plywood is a layer of 2" pink foam glued down with PL300. For those who plan on doing something similar, be advised to spread the PL300 out before putting the foam on top. I thought that the PL300 would spread evenly under the foam when I applied weight on the foam but it didn't. That left me with some uneven joints between the foam sheets
Here is the layout with the foam in place. It has been painted in order to cover the first track plan which I had painstakingly drawn out on the foam. After drawing the layout on the foam I wasn't happy with the radii on the curves so I redrew the whole thing.
At the far end you can see the hollow which I cut out for the water scene. I used a hot foam cutter and it worked like a charm. I cut the basic opening before installing the foam sheet. Here is the cut out.
Here are some examples of how I plotted the track position. I had designed the layout using 3rd PlanIt so it was easy to print out a copy of the track diagram and then plot the exact locations of each end of the individual track segments. I am using flex track, but the program allows you to cut a long curve with a constant radius into shorter segments, thus making it easier to mark the exact position of the track as it progresses through the curve.
Here is a track diagram with the plotting points marked on it.
Here is a picture of the plotting points after they have been transferred to the foam. This is the first attempt. You can see that the curves are rather tight and that there is a lot of space between the track and the edge of the layout. I had intended to put a lot of scenery in that space but I changed my mind after seeing how tight the curves were.
That's all for now. I will continue the thread shortly once I have a look at the original thread in order to determine how the heck it got to 900 posts!?! There must be something in there of value!
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Ooops, it might be nice to include a track plan in the thread, don't ya think!
The layout is set in the transition era. The original inspiration was MR's Beer Line but there have been so many changes that there is little remaining resemblance other than the basic oval concept. Canadian Pacific will be the dominant railroad.
Here is the plan. Just to cover all the bases, it is HO scale with Code 100 on everything except the service yard. The yard will be Code 83 primarily because the Peco Code 83 double slip turnout fit the plan much better. I am using an NCR DCC system which will eventually be wireless with 5 amps. Turnouts are controlled via Tortoises. I will use Rapido Rail Crew uncouplers at strategic locations. I am making my own signals. They will be used to indicate turnout positions only. Nothing too fancy.
At first glance the plan appears to have a double main line but that isn't quite how it will function. The inner of the two ovals will be the main line. The outer oval will serve as a feeder to the center yard, service area, spurs and eventually to a separate main yard that will run off to the upper left. You can see the two turnouts that will feed the yard.
I'm still playing with structure locations.
Nice summary Dave!
snjroyNice summary Dave!
Thanks.
I decided to re-read the original 900 post thread. Most of the posts were mine. I guess I talk too much! There were a lot of asides, most of which were interesting. I should do a summary of the off topic posts.
Dave, sweet, awesome job on the summary! Very helpful! I think this is a good start for an article in MR! Many of us older modelers could benefit from the rotisserie approach! I'd like to use this approach for prep work on open grid sections:
1) draw in track plan,
2) install roadbed & track,
3) install track feeders & buss,
4) install turnout control & control panel,
5) install accessory wiring for lighting the layout,
6) plan location and dimensions of scratchbuilt buildings
After completing steps 1 through 6, move to the around the walls base benchwork. Nice no work under the layout for my old achy knees!
I do have a request, can you provide more details on the pivot points? What parts did you buy and source? Love this idea! Kudos again!
IDRickI do have a request, can you provide more details on the pivot points? What parts did you buy and source?
Hi IDRick,
I got the 7" pivot plates from Amazon. This is a Canadian listing so they will be cheaper in the US:
https://www.amazon.ca/Fasmov-Heavy-Stool-Swivel-Replacement/dp/B01FTZESK8?pd_rd_w=OALp9&pf_rd_p=73449c88-3493-4188-b70a-739631679246&pf_rd_r=XMH33KGN2ZRC8J4FA59B&pd_rd_r=94dd2992-7a87-41d7-b68e-69d983b44b00&pd_rd_wg=JWI3s&pd_rd_i=B01FTZESK8&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_c_2_87_t
I tried 4" pivot plates at first but they were way too flimsy. The 7" plates are very solid and there is virtually no slop in the bearings.
The trickiest part was getting all of the bolts in place. There was very little room between the end supports and the benchwork, and the bolts had to be long enough to go through the 3/4" plywood on the end supports. On the benchwork side I used two #14 pan head screws in each of the four holes instead of bolts. Bolts wouldn't work because the center spine was blocking the spots where they would have come through the frame.
There were questions raised about whether or not the pivot plates would work when mounted vertically, but I'm not concerned. They actually won't be rotated all that often.
I do suggest covering the plates with a cloth when you are working on the benchwork so that wood shavings don't get down into the bearings.
The castors have 4" wheels. I went with the larger wheels so that the layout would be easy to roll. My garage floor is a bit rough.
https://www.amazon.ca/Swivel-Rubber-Locking-1200lbs-Casters/dp/B07DB45V1L?pd_rd_w=6yMVg&pf_rd_p=73449c88-3493-4188-b70a-739631679246&pf_rd_r=DJSXJJDC1C1PMFB2A6AQ&pd_rd_r=90bf6b0b-1115-45d4-bba8-28631b8881c6&pd_rd_wg=1Al0u&pd_rd_i=B07DB45V1L&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_c_2_118_t
I had to buy longer bolts to go through the 3/4" plywood.
The benchwork is locked in place with large hitch pins. I tried barrel bolts at first but they were way too sloppy.
https://www.amazon.ca/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973159535-Piece-1/dp/B004S6RKSW?pd_rd_w=6yMVg&pf_rd_p=73449c88-3493-4188-b70a-739631679246&pf_rd_r=DJSXJJDC1C1PMFB2A6AQ&pd_rd_r=90bf6b0b-1115-45d4-bba8-28631b8881c6&pd_rd_wg=1Al0u&pd_rd_i=B004S6RKSW&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_c_2_86_t
Hope that helps.
Thanks Dave!