Transition roadbed from mainline to industrial siding or yard?

[FlattenedQuarter]

I ran my mainlines on cork on top of homasote. My yards and branches are directly on the homasote, I transitioned between the two with a cedar shingle trimmed to match the cork profile

[Pruitt]

I use Midwest HO cork roadbed for my mainline (roughly 3/16" thick) and mostly 4mm cork sheet for sidings and other auxiliary trackage. That gives a prototype look to the track elevations.

For the transition, I layer 1/4" masking tape to create a gentle slope with vertical curves at each end to ease into the ramp. Here's a ramp in process of being built right under the passing siding turnout.

[hardcoalcase]

I plan for about 8" of cork to be shaped for the transition to 1/8" cork sheet for a regular spur, and about 18" for the ladder track of a yard.  I use a Stanley Surform rasp, which makes pretty quick work of it.  I do have a belt sander, but the rasp allows for better control.    

At the risk of sounding overly furgal ... I collect the cork roadbed dust for possible use as scenic material.

...and, yes... I have a lot of it.  

Jim

[riogrande5761]

I've found it easiest to mount the surface of the cork roadbed flush with the Homasote.  That way there is no "ramp" to get them to match.

Bottom of this photo illustrates:

Did the same thing on previous layout - it just seemed like common sense:

[wp8thsub]

Belt sander for the win.

[ChrisVA]

BATMAN

What are you using for sub roadbed?

 

 

 

 

1/2" plywood

[doctorwayne]

ChrisVA

If I use cork roadbed for my mainline, and a sheet of cork or homasote for my industrial sidings and yards, what is the best way to make that transition? 

Thanks!   

The track in the foreground, with grey ballast, is on cork roadbed, while the track with the boxcar, in the distance at right, is directly atop the plywood...

I used a piece of #36 garnet sandpaper, wrapped around a block of 2"x2" to sand-down the grade from the turnout on the mainline to the turnout near the boxcar.  Took less than two minutes-or-so.

Here's another view of the same area...

The grade between the two turnouts is about 16" long.

Wayne

[BATMAN]

What are you using for sub roadbed?

 

[SeeYou190]

For non-graded areas like yards and industrial track, I raise the subroadbed to keep the rail heights level.

I do not like any grades, except to change elevation for over/under operation.

All my HO layouts have had dead-level track, and it works well for me. I change the scenery height rather than the rail height.

-Kevin

[Texas Zephyr]

ChrisVA

If I use cork roadbed for my mainline, and a sheet of cork or homasote for my industrial sidings and yards, what is the best way to make that transition?

butt them up against each other and use a sander to slope them making the heights match.   Both of those materials are very easy to sand.

Wear a dust mask.  And I  usually have the shopvac running (connected to the sander, or intake as close to the work as practical) to trap as much of the dust as possible.

[ChrisVA]

If I use cork roadbed for my mainline, and a sheet of cork or homasote for my industrial sidings and yards, what is the best way to make that transition? 

Thanks!