I discovered a company that would print my track plan on 1/8" lexan (I think). I simply sent them a picture of my control panel drawings and they printed them out. They were not cheap but they were nicely done:
Unfortunately I got too excited about getting my track plan printed so I ordered them before my final track plan was confirmed. That meant that the first set was a waste of money, but that doesn't deflect from their quality. I will order from the same company again once I have finally decided on my track plan.
Just make sure that you have as finely detailed a drawing as you can manage. The end result will be much better.
The company that I used is Vistaprint. Search for acrylic signs:
https://www.vistaprint.ca/lpt/bc1-cat-marquee-creation-1.aspx?mk=business+cards+canada&ad=be&crtv=81913623668593&device=c&pstid=kwd-81913632972745%3aloc-32&psite=mkwid%7colJOBI1G&pscid=303173829&psagid=1310617890968446&psnet=o&msclkid=37237e41efc8120bb37a25e46a547f53&dkwdid=81913632972745&psquery=business+cards+canada&psloc=5254&psp2=&psp3=&psfid=&psint=32&couponAutoload=1&GP=09%2f21%2f2018+19%3a58%3a21&GPS=5173891250&GNF=0&rd=1
I have no affiliation.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
ChrisVAThe Panels look great. Followups: How did you paint the aluminum and the track schematic on the aluminum? How did you apply the professional looking lettering on the other panel? Thanks!
- I used Testors spray paints on the panel. First, I made a template of my diagram on graph paper. Then placed that on the aluminum sheet and used a punch to make an indentation at each turn point of the diagram. Then primed the panel. Then painted the panel white. Then used 1/8" pinstripe tape to define (mask) the track diagram. Then painted the panel black. Promptly removed the pinstripe tape. Then painted a couple coats of clear semi-gloss. Then marked and drilled the holes for the DPDT turnout switches. Then added LED holders. Then added lettering (see next item) and added another coat of clear coat.
- For the two panels, the lettering is Woodland Scenics dry transfer letters / numbers that you just rub with a pencil to transfer from its paper to the object. If you goof it up, just rub off with an eraser and re-do it. Then protect it with clear coat.
- I just googled to find a decent place for a custom sized piece of 5/64" aluminum.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
peahrens I followed the suggestion in a January 2012 MR article "How to build & wire a turnout control panel". It suggested using 5/64" aluminum material. You can custom order the size you want. I recall mine was about $15 plus shipping. It is sturdy and easy to drill holes. I used the mini DPDT On-On toggles for my Tortoise machines and included bi-color LEDs. A very satisfying project. IMG_4565 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr I believe I just inserted the DPDT toggle through the hole and added the spoked washer and nut at the front, without a nut on the back, but not certain on that. I also added a small panel for lighting switches and uncoupler buttons. For that, I cut a piece of clear material (lucite or whatever, uncertain) from Home Depot and primed and painted it black. I prefer the aluminum as it might be easier to ruin the plastic with a chipped hole, etc. Uncouplers6 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
I followed the suggestion in a January 2012 MR article "How to build & wire a turnout control panel". It suggested using 5/64" aluminum material. You can custom order the size you want. I recall mine was about $15 plus shipping. It is sturdy and easy to drill holes. I used the mini DPDT On-On toggles for my Tortoise machines and included bi-color LEDs. A very satisfying project.
IMG_4565 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
I believe I just inserted the DPDT toggle through the hole and added the spoked washer and nut at the front, without a nut on the back, but not certain on that.
I also added a small panel for lighting switches and uncoupler buttons. For that, I cut a piece of clear material (lucite or whatever, uncertain) from Home Depot and primed and painted it black. I prefer the aluminum as it might be easier to ruin the plastic with a chipped hole, etc.
Uncouplers6 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
The Panels look great. Followups:
How did you paint the aluminum and the track schematic on the aluminum?
How did you apply the professional looking lettering on the other panel?Thanks!
I buy my Aluminum sheet at a local BB store.https://www.lowes.com/pl/Aluminum-Solid--Sheet-metal-Metal-rods-shapes-sheets-Hardware/4294684417?refinement=4294965691,4294866967Any drill bit will work on Aluminum, it’s soft metal. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Thanks for the info. I had a couple of followup questions:
Where (online) can you order the sheet aluminum cut to order?
How do you drill a hole in the aluminum? I've never drilled through metal before. Assuming there are special drill bits for sheet metal?Thanks
I am looking at some new ones that I have.
There are two nuts. The first nut sits on top of the toggle switch itself and the tab washer sits above it facing downward, then the control panel, then the lock washer, then the second nut.
Rich
Alton Junction
ChrisVAI'm a bit confused about the ordering of the lock and tab washer, and which way the lock washer and tab washer should face. Is this the correct? (Assume I want to "stack" them with contacts at "bottom" and toggle switch at "top". 1. Put lock washer on bottom of thread (does it matter which way it faces?) 2. Put the tab washer on. This is the part that confuses me - does the tab face "up" or "down"? If I face it "up", then it will now hit the back of the panel when I put the switch through the whole? (uneven surface) 3. Put thread through hole with (1) and (2) behind the panel. 4. Attach nut.
1. Put lock washer on bottom of thread (does it matter which way it faces?)
2. Put the tab washer on. This is the part that confuses me - does the tab face "up" or "down"? If I face it "up", then it will now hit the back of the panel when I put the switch through the whole? (uneven surface)
3. Put thread through hole with (1) and (2) behind the panel.
4. Attach nut.
That's interesting. Usually the switch comes with two nuts plus the other parts.
The threaded barrel of the switch is made long enough to accomodate a rather thick panel, much thicker than I used.
The installation sequence I always used was: Nut, tab washer, control panel surface, lock washer, nut.
The bottom nut goes only partially down the barrel, to set the thickness of the other parts in the stack-up so that only one or two threads will show through the top nut in the end.
I always put the tab washer on with the tab facing downwards, since I didn't need the locking feature that keeps the switch from turning (for model railroad purposes, the lock washer provides enough resistance to rotation).
Then I put the switch through the panel and adjust the bottom nut if I need to to get the right penetration of the barrel through the panel.
Next comes the lock washer, then the top nut. The lock washer provides decent resistance to the switch turning in the hole, and also provides a nice little lip around the top nut that prevents the tools I used to tighten the nut from sitting on the panel face and scarring it as the tool (usually a socket) turns. The socket seats against the wadher and not the panel.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Thanks for the answers. I suspected the tab was supposed to press into the back of the panel (or have its own small hole) to hold things firmly in place and keep the parts from rotating.
When putting them on a softer surface such as masonite, not sure there is a really wrong or right way to do it. Look at the different options and see what look you like best. I put the lock washer on first so it would be against the switch body and on the underside of the panel. Then I put the larger washer with tab facing up into the wood so it would grip the underside of the panel. Then I put the switch in place and the smaller washer over the threaded part (tab up), followed by the nut. You could easily swap the positions of the two washers with tabs, putting the bigger one on the top if it looks better to you. If you decide to put both of the washers in place with the tabs facing towards the masonite, they will likely bite into it as you secure everything.
The tab washer is used when you drill a hole in the panel above the switch mounting hole to prevent the toggle from turning. I normally install the tab washers with the tab toward the switch as a spacer then the lock washer, either side up, then the switch in the hole and last the nut.The tab washer works very nice as a washer under the nut if you cut off the tab. That way when tightening the nut you don’t scratch the panel. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I'm a bit confused about the ordering of the lock and tab washer, and which way the lock washer and tab washer should face. Is this the correct? (Assume I want to "stack" them with contacts at "bottom" and toggle switch at "top".
Like Mark P. I sandwich a drawing under 1/16”/.062” Plexiglas except I went with .04” sheet Aluminum for the bottom. I use a piano hinge at the bottom so that the panel will fold down for maintenance or future mods.I use connectors between the panel and the housing so I can easily remove the panel to work on it at my workbench. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
The local big box store hardboard I used for my facia/control panels is 3/16" thick. Too thick to use both of the mini-toggle switch nuts. Also required a bit of spot facing to the back side of the LED holes for the plastic bezels to seat properly. Like to treat the back of the hardboard (rough side) with a liberal coat of Varathane as a moisture block and to help prevent burring and break-outs when drilling thru.
Btw, those little soft plastic caps for the toggle switch levers not only look spiffy, but go easy on my old beat-up fingers.
Regards, Peter
Through the years I think I have used nearly everything you can try as a control panel material.
Microsoft PowerPoint and color printers have brought the graphics portion of control panels into access for everyone.
For support, I have pretty well settled on 1/16" thick alluminum as being perfect for me.
I used to have access to old street signs that were being scrapped, and these were perfect, and free. For my next layout, I will need to buy the alluminum sheet.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I use document frames from Wal-Mart, intended to hold 8.5" x 11" items. These consist of vinyl-coated pressed paperboard frame members, a paperboard backing and a pane of glass. They come in 3-packs, for about $4.
In making the panel, I make a track plan schematic on an old version (8.0) of Atlas Right-Track software (now freeware) and print it on Avery Ink Jet Sticker Project Paper. I'll disassemble the frame, set the glass pane aside, cut the members down to the desired size on my mitre saw and re-assemble them with carpenter's glue, making a new frame designed to fit the schematic. Next, I cut the paperboard backing to fit the new frame, attach the sticker paper schematic to it, and cut a sheet of 1/8" plexiglas the same size (mitre saw again).
I loosely assemble the panel components (backing, schematic and plexiglas) into the frame, and using a small bit and pin vice, make a dimple on the plexiglas in each spot where I want a toggle to be located. I remove the plexiglas and drill a larger hole for for the toggle.
Once all the holes are drilled, I reassemble the components again, and install them into the frame using the little metal tabs. Use a hobby knife with a new #11 blade inserted into the toggle holes to cut through the sticker paper and paperboard. Don't use the drill, as it can damage the sticker paper - don't ask me how I know!).
Add the lock washer and tab washer (tab facing up) onto the toggle, insert the toggle into the hole and secure it with the nut. A rear nut is not needed.
You can save yourself some work by using the frames as-is, but I prefer to make a smaller custom size for each panel.
The glass pane has no part in this application, but if you plan on doing resin casting, you can use these for making squish molds.
Jim
I used two pieces of 1/8 inch Lexan with a graphic sandwiched in between.
Basswood and styrene sheet also both work well for control panels.
You are correct that the DPDT is mounted from behind and the threaded shaft protrudes through the control panel, secured by a thin nut on the front of the control panel.
1/4" masonite if you can get it or close to it, that is what I use for digitrax panels on my layout that are mounted below the facia.
If I want to build a control panel with mini-dpdt switches and LEDs to indicate turnout directions, what material and thickness would work best?
I'm considering either 1/8" masonite or sheet metal. Is the 1/8" too thick to properly seat a dpdt switch and LED? Or is something thinner required? If sheet metal, what is a good thicknes?
Also for installing a dpdt mini switch, assuming I attach one nut on behind the panel and one in front and "sandwich" the panel material between them?
Thanks in advance