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Tortoise switch machines

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Quebec
  • 983 posts
Posted by Marc_Magnus on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 2:08 AM
Yes guys I had the same problems with the tortoise switch machine.
For indicating lights I use leds wired in series with the lead motors.
For additionnal contact in place of relays, I glue on the box of the tortoise microswitch for power the frog of the turnout or signals (my layout is wired without as possible relays; it simplify the wiring).The moving black plastic piece of the tortoise activate them, and from fity years ago I use them on my empire no problems occurs.
But now I use switchmaster motors on homemade supports which includes too microswitch as needed. Lights indicators are wired on the leads motor too.
and additionnal contact are provided by the microswitch.
I put on the arm of the motor an activator to "click' the microswitch
Some motor support more than 5 microswitch on a side of the motors.
No problems occurs because the microswitch are real switch.



But now I use switchmaster motors on homemade support with microswitch
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 17, 2005 3:37 PM
Thanks a lot guys, I will wire up in series with the motors,but I have 14 of them and will have to increase my power supply because of the voltage drop with the diodes in series with the motor. Yhanks again.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Monday, January 17, 2005 8:31 AM
Do as TBat55 suggested -- wire the LEDs into the Tortoise power leads and don't try to use the machine's built-in contacts. I wired all of the Tortoise and SwitchMaster machines that way on the Cochise & Western Model Railroad Club's HO layout and they work just fine that way.

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: US
  • 641 posts
Posted by mikebonellisr on Monday, January 17, 2005 8:08 AM
I had the problem with a tortise "makeing" before "breaking" on one of my turnouts.Under the tortoise label is a small screw,remove that to gain access to the inner workings.I had to remove a little of the contact "trace".That was 1 time on one machine about 6 years ago.....No problem since.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Crosby, Texas
  • 3,660 posts
Posted by cwclark on Monday, January 17, 2005 7:51 AM
I've had the same problem..I tried to wire it to control the polarity on a "WYE" and about 50% of the time they wouldn't make....I don't count on the Tortoise machine's reliability as a DP/DT switch so I put in train detection circuits with relays instead...they are a lot like atlas relays...they have a contact wiper inside that slides from one pole to another that makes or breaks the contact and a majority of them don't make a good connection when they move from one to the other...the tortoise is a great turnout controller but the built in DP/DT switch has a lot to be desired...Chuck

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Finger Lakes
  • 561 posts
Posted by TBat55 on Monday, January 17, 2005 7:48 AM
I decided to not use the contacts. Instead I just wired the LEDs in series with the motor power supply since the power is always on.

Terry

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Tortoise switch machines
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 16, 2005 2:28 PM
Has anybody had any problems with the auxillary contacts on these units? I am using the contacts to light up LED's for turnout indication. It seems that on a few the contacts do not seem to switch properly and both contacts are made at the same time. Help.

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