I am at the stage where I am about to install the quencher from the Walthers Coke Oven kit on the layout. This is what the instructions say:
My interpretation of that is to run track up to the quencher, remove the ties from the track that will go through it, and position the rails on top of the plastic "rails" that are molded into the quencher base. The problem with that is that it doesn't fit without shimming the track up to the proper level or to cut a hole for the quencher to drop it down.
Playing around with this I can get code 80 track to line up with those plastic rails in the base if I shim the quencher but there is no room for error. If it is off just the slightest I get a derailment.
I was thinging about cutting a slot in the base so it fit over the track, or I could remove the plastic rails from the base and just run the track through it.
What have you guys done that have installed one?
Rick
I had doubled the length of the quencher by splicing two kits together. I've since removed it as it was taking too much room where I located it.
I don't recall having any problems with the rail/tie height using Code 83 rail. Some of my yard trackage was Atlas which has a higher tie profile. The rest is Shinohara/Walthers and the ties are thinner.
Can you use styrene sheet and shim the height difference leading into the quencher. maybe you have a curve on either side of it causing problems? If you make the height difference long enough, by stepping the thicknesses of styrene over distance, you shouldn't have any derailment problems.
hbgatsf...and position the rails on top of the plastic "rails" — I can get code 80 track to line up with those plastic rails in the base ...
The rail base should sit into the grooves of the quencher base. I used very small drops of Superglue gel and glued the base of the rail into place leaving six or eight inches of track with ties on either side of the base. I placed a heavy flat weight on top of the rail heads while the cement set.
I did not glue the walls to the base so I could remove it while the base stayed in place. I used small sticky dots to hold the wall structure in place.
Good Luck, Ed
Thanks, but I think you are confusing the base of the quencher with the base of the rolling mill. The mill has grooves and I didn't have any problem with the track lining up with them.
The quencher has raised plastic rails. I can shim the track leading into it but I am more inclined to either cut a slot in the base or remove those plastic rails.
hbgatsfThanks, but I think you are confusing the base of the quencher with the base of the rolling mill. The mill has grooves and I didn't have any problem with the track lining up with them.
Yes, could be. The Walthers roundhouse, diesel shop, back shop and others have grooves for the base of the rail.
I tore out my quencher and didn't save any of the pieces. I may have a few photos but I don't recall and it was about six years ago. Most likely I did cut out the center base section as you mentioned as an option as I'm sure I had solid rail continuity through the quencher. No plastic rail!
Sorry... Ed