making a 6 x 10 layout

[rrinker]

Mine comes apart too, just undo the two bolts between each section. Theoretically the legs come off too, as they are mostly held on with carriage bolts, not glued and screwed like the framing members.
As I go around the walls witht he expansion, I'm pretty much planning on just making more of the same boxes and running them end to end until I need an odd size to fit a space. I like consistency. The 2x8 sections DO fit up the stairs from the basement and out the door - I built them out in the garage to keep the mess outside and carried them in afterwards.

--Randy

[TurboOne]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Well, TWO 4x8's [:D]

Plus it has 32" radius curves, so it will run just about anything.

I'm still working on the plan for the rest of the basement, but that will be a more realistic linear shelf layout, using the existing layout as a turnback curve. But, you say, I haven't even finished the first part yet. Of course not, model railroaders NEVER 'finish' anything, they keep adding on! [:D][:D]

--Randy

Alright, I like all these ideas, but it looks like Randys surround layout. as I want folks to be able to walk on all sides. With Harolds I would need to put it against the wall due to size. Been trying to figure out Atlas RTS software to help with layout. Having headaches with flextrack. I will be elevating a third main which was the reason for double crossover, more room for 3rd main up high with some cool bridges in the mountains or over water. Haven't decided which yet.

Dave the module idea is great. Especially for moving.

Tim

[dave9999]

Tim,
I built my benchwork similar to Randy's, although I DID use a thin sheet of 1/4" plywood under
the foam just for kicks. Hey, a little extra support never hurts. Plus, I may be in a situation in
the future where it has to be moved. I designed it to come apart in four sections. I will only need
to cut through some scenery to do so. Here's a pic before I started the layout work. good luck. Dave



Sorry for the blurry photo.

[rrinker]

Well, TWO 4x8's [:D]

Plus it has 32" radius curves, so it will run just about anything.

I'm still working on the plan for the rest of the basement, but that will be a more realistic linear shelf layout, using the existing layout as a turnback curve. But, you say, I haven't even finished the first part yet. Of course not, model railroaders NEVER 'finish' anything, they keep adding on! [:D][:D]

--Randy

[TurboOne]

Randy, i downloaded your layout. Very cool.
Big advantage, just cut 4 x 8 in half. simple.

Harold, I like your idea. I printed it out. Will have more thinking to do, instead of going for the 6 x 10 right off the bat. Long mainline.

I like both ideas, will have to see what fits in the garage.

Tim

anymore ideas keep them coming.

[egmurphy]

QUOTE: Tim:
What would be the best configuration to make a good layout for a 6 x 10.

You might want to reconsider if you really want to make a 6' wide layout. Unless you put an access hatch in the center, it will be difficult to work on anything in the center. While you might be able to stretch three feet to grab something, trying to do any detailed work on scenery or tracklaying could be tough.

Just a thought.

Ed

[rrinker]

QUOTE: Originally posted by TurboOne

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Consider extruded foam insualtion board. It definitely does NOT sag with support on 16" centers. Check my web site and you can see the track plan I am in the middle of building. Some places can get the foam in 4x8 sheets, in that case you'd need 2. Around here, it only comes in 2x8 pieces, so I used 4. The end result is 4 identical 2x8 modules built from 1x4 lumber, witht he foam on top, for an 8x12 layout with a 4x8 'hole' in the middle.

--Randy

Two questions Randy. It looks like you used straight foam no plywood. If so how come ? Will it support building mountains, and when you put in switches, if your foam is over 1", how do you get under board switches to work ?

Also I just saw your pics. Randy I am mad at you and my wife is going to be more mad. [}:)] Yup, I like the board layout you have. Do you crawl under, how young are you if you do. Reach wise, mainline wise it looks fantastic ! [:D][:D][:D]

Thanks

Tim

No plywood, just the foam. It's MORE than strong enough to build up scenery on top - I have leaned on it all the time while laying the track. You could stand on it, but it would deform the foam - but then if you stood on a piece of thefoam resting on a solid cement floor it would also deform. But there is no strength issue for holding up scenery forms covered with hydrocal and Sculptamold.
As for under table switch machines - well, they aren't under the table so much as IN the table. I'm pretty sure I have some pictures of the Tortoise mounting I use. It fits in from the top. The spring wire then only has to work the length of the roadbed, so the stock wire supplied is plenty strong. I found that technique on a site from the North California Freemo modular group, tried it out on a test section, and then did it for the rest of the layout. With 2" foam, the edge connector sticks out below the foam on the bottom for access to solder wires on.
The height is 48", but that's because of how it will have to tie in with the upper and lower decks of the rest of the layout. If it were goignt o be a standalone layout, I'd make it higher. As is, sitting on an office chair, I can scoot right under, although I AM young enough to duckwalk under it as well. My father in law doesn't have any problems getting under it, but he has the added benefit of being about 6 inches shorter than I am. Once this part of the layout is incorporated in the rest, the only reason to go into the middle there will be to rescue a derailed train - and so far, no matter how crazy fast I run things, it doesn't derail. Of course I just jinxed myself with that statement [:D]
The basic plan comes from Plan 56 in 101 Track Plans, expanded slightly. The 'top' and 'left' sides are against walls, since it's in a corner, but with the tabletops only being 2' across, it's an easy reach.
One thing I would do differently is not as many legs. I made each section identical, right down to the legs and braces, and it really doesn't need that many legs to hold it up. In fact, to fit lower level staging below the left and top parts of this, I will have to move or remove at least one of the legs on the top left. No problem, it isn't needed anyway. Each section is bolted to the next one with a pair of 1/4 carriage bolts and that will provide support without the extra leg.

--Randy

[hminky]

Here is what I would do with your 4x8:



There is access on all sides, interesting operation, and continuous running. I have a webpage discussing this configuration:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/4x8/track_plan/

If you can work wood, why use foam.
Just a thought[:D]
Harold

[TurboOne]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Consider extruded foam insualtion board. It definitely does NOT sag with support on 16" centers. Check my web site and you can see the track plan I am in the middle of building. Some places can get the foam in 4x8 sheets, in that case you'd need 2. Around here, it only comes in 2x8 pieces, so I used 4. The end result is 4 identical 2x8 modules built from 1x4 lumber, witht he foam on top, for an 8x12 layout with a 4x8 'hole' in the middle.

--Randy

Two questions Randy. It looks like you used straight foam no plywood. If so how come ? Will it support building mountains, and when you put in switches, if your foam is over 1", how do you get under board switches to work ?

Also I just saw your pics. Randy I am mad at you and my wife is going to be more mad. [}:)] Yup, I like the board layout you have. Do you crawl under, how young are you if you do. Reach wise, mainline wise it looks fantastic ! [:D][:D][:D]

Thanks

Tim

[rrinker]

Consider extruded foam insualtion board. It definitely does NOT sag with support on 16" centers. Check my web site and you can see the track plan I am in the middle of building. Some places can get the foam in 4x8 sheets, in that case you'd need 2. Around here, it only comes in 2x8 pieces, so I used 4. The end result is 4 identical 2x8 modules built from 1x4 lumber, witht he foam on top, for an 8x12 layout with a 4x8 'hole' in the middle.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Either way it will sag slightly in the middle. Defences are use some of the scrap plywood as ties across the cross 2x4 on the bottom or add an extra set of legs in the middle. I have a 4x8 layout on 1x4 stock with cross pieces on 16" center and it mildly sags enough that I test my rolling stock after tuning. If it rolls its good, if not then back to the bench.

[TurboOne]

I have 2 x 4s for bracing, and 3 4 x 8 plus some scrap. What would be the best configuration to make a good layout for a 6 x 10. I have thought of taking the main 4 x 8 adding two feet each way. Simple but. I also thought of cutting the 4 x 8 into 4 x 6 then put 2 2 x 3 in center, but then do you have 3 frames ?

Sunday wood working.Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Thanks all

Tim (I've got a saw, ok the wife does, but I can use it)