I am considering a small HO layout for one of my rooms. It would be 4' x 6'. I may be able to get away with 5' x 7', but that might be a stretch.
I want to be able to raise this to the ceiling and lower it. I live in a mid-century modern with an angled ceiling, so that will likely come into play. I will need a contractor of some sort to help with this.
Anyway, I'm curious if anyone has done this, and if so, if you could share any suggestions for what to do or what to avoid. I spend a lot of time in this room with my LPs, so I would prefer that the layout not come crashing down on my head when it is raised to the ceiling.
Thanks in advance, and Happy New Year!
One of the considerations is what the layout will be over, and what the other purpose of the room is.
Could you add these details?
The only layouts I have seen like this that were executed really well were over pool tables.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
We've had several threads on this specific discussion within the past year, and now that 'community search' works again you can probably find them pretty easily.
OvermodWe've had several threads on this specific discussion within the past year, and now that 'community search' works again you can probably find them pretty easily.
Is the "community search" feature only for model railroader, or does it work globally for all of the trains sites?
It searches all the Trains Dot Com discussion groups.
I would give us the details of your installation and stick with this thread. Keep it on track/topic for your needs.
The other topics I remember derailed pretty badly.
I see a fully suspended layout as dangerous, particularly during raising and lowering. Instead, I would suggest attaching one side to the wall and only raising the other side. This will force you to remove engines and rolling stock when you raise the layout, but I see that as a way of protecting your investment.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
What I think I heard him proposing was that the layout rise vertically until one side touches the angled ceiling, then continuing to raise the 'outer' edge until the underside rises to lie up against the tilt of the ceiling.
As noted, that would require removing or somehow locking down the rolling stock; it would also limit scenery and buildings. Quite a bit of the 'building a layout on a rotisserie' might be useful in keeping the wiring and services entirely within a thin 'layout table' structure intended Not To Be Seen when in the raised position...
Yes, this could be done with surface cords or cables, if implemented carefully. Keeping the two stages of the lift coordinated, and preventing the foreseeable types of accidents, will be a couple of substantial challenges but, I think, have workable answers.
I think I'd be tempted to put some kind of positive guide on the ceiling that accepts the 'engaging edge' of the rising table as a pivot hinge for the further lifting. A frame or box into a skylight- or vent-type 'chimney' might represent a way to accommodate higher structure above the table ... but care would have to be taken to avoid light and heat issues etc. when 'up'.
I agree, as in the threads before, with the idea of 'landing' the layout on a firm table surface, like a billiard table with applied pads, if possible, and providing adjustable landing legs for level and stability even if the majority of the weight continues to be carried by cabling. This is for noise as well as stability.
Many years ago in MR a guy built a two car garage layout that he would lift up to park cars. Cables from the corners of a very sturdy support structure went over a pulley and was counterbalanced with weights. It was effortless toraise and lower it. As I remember it had fold up legs for use in the down position
ndbprrMany years ago in MR a guy built a two car garage layout that he would lift up to park cars
I remember that. It was a very heavy set up, had a concrete counter weight for the lifting. Heavy cables, pulleys, etc.
Mike.
EDIT: Found it in the archives. June, 1977, by Jim Hedinger, The Midland Valley RR. A 14' x 25' island type.
My You Tube
OvermodWhat I think I heard him proposing was that the layout rise vertically until one side touches the angled ceiling, then continuing to raise the 'outer' edge until the underside rises to lie up against the tilt of the ceiling.
No, and I apologize if my post was confusing. I would raise the layout and it would remain parallel with the floor. The only reason I mentioned the angled ceiling is I didn't know if that would add a layer of complexity to the raising and lowering mechanism.
LastspikemikeBetter to design a lightweight foam based layout instead.
That's what I am thinking. I am using Elmer's foam board for my annual winter layout around the tree. I imagine it would need to be reinforced somehow to prevent warping.
Years ago, I suspended a 6' by 6' layout from the ceiling of my son's bedroom (about 11' by 12'). I used 3" wide strips of 1/2" plywood glued together to create extremely rigid and lightweight open grid framework. 1/4" plywood and cookie-cutter methodology was used to create the roadbed and level portions of the scenery. Hardshell over newspapers formed everything else. I used an electric winch mounted low on one wall of the room to raise and lower the layout. I attached the winch cable to the center of a 40" long piece of 1/4" thick aluminum bar stock used as a load spreader. I hung one double pulley from the ceiling above each end of the spreader bar plus single pulleys above each corner of the layout. I used vinyl encased wire cables to attach the ends of the spreader bar to the corners of the layout. After a bit of frustration trying to keep the layout level, I tried crossing the two cables attached to the far side of the layout in an "X" so that each end of the spreader bar was attached to opposing corners of the layout. From this point on, I never had a problem raising or lowering the now perfectly level layout.
The layout was designed with a center control location (like a square donut). The center opening served two purposes. Not only did it allow an operator to reach all areas of the layout from a cener control position, but the open center cleared the ceiling fan/light fixture when the layout was raised.
Lowering the layout involved retrieving the removable legs from the closet, lowering the layout about 18" to attach the legs, then stepping into the center control area before lowering the layout to rest on its legs (the winch had a fairly long control cable which allowed the winch to be operated from the center of the room). Raising the layout was simply the reverse. You just had to watch to make sure nothing on the layout hit the ceiling.
The greatest shortcoming of this layout was the lack of working space around the outside of the layout due to the presence of the bedroom furniture. We did pretty much complete this layout with all of the planned structures and scenery in place. I powered the layout with the original AltasMaster DCC system with two throttles. Unfortunately, the extra compact size of this HO scale layout meant that the rolling stock didn't track as well as desired and though I planned it for light operations, we eventually lost interest in this layout.
As far as safety is concerned, please note that this layout lived through several Southern California earthquakes and never even had a figurine fall off the layout. All trains remained on the layout when raised, too.
Hornblower
If you have an attic above the room you could install a small chandelier hoist appropriate to the weight of the layout. Simply hook it up to the nearest electrical wire in the attic and use Bluetooth to control it with your phone. With Bluetooth you do not have to run wires to a switch in a wall somewhere.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Shock Control I am considering a small HO layout for one of my rooms. It would be 4' x 6'. I may be able to get away with 5' x 7', but that might be a stretch.
I have exactly such a layout. It's 4x6, in the garage, and consists of foam on 1/2" plywood (braced by 1x). It rests on a 4x4 steel frame that raises and lowers on steel cables through pulleys, anchored to the rafters. It was installed by a local garage storage company. While there is a motorized option, mine came with a hand crank as well as a rod you can chuck into a 1/2" drill.
I suspect if you research your own local garage storage specialsts, you can find such a rack that could be installed, though I admit the angled ceiling might pose a challenge. I have always intended to add legs to mine, but just hanging from the cables it is very stable and operable.
There are many useful ideas already suggested by others. To add to those, you might consider purchasing John Armstrong's book 'Creative Model Railroad Design', first published by Kalmbach in 1978 (now likely out-of-print). Chapter 1 of this book has some interesting information about fold-ups, lift-ups, hinges, etc. along with detailed drawings and track plans. I suspect some of these book topics may be related to the 1977 Jim Hediger MRR article previously referenced. Anyhow, it's a great book, full of interesting ideas and of course John's witty writing.
MapGuy42 It was installed by a local garage storage company.
Just for fun, I Googled Garage Storage lift-ups, and found all sorts of products and ideas.
You could mix up the wording a bit, and probably find more.