Simple question - do you paint them?
Rick
I did, with craft paint charcoal brown. It seems to stick well and it did not affect the performance.
Simon
Thanks. I wasn't sure if the material was too "slippery" for the paint to hold. I wasn't even thinking about the paint causing them to freeze up.
You know I never thought of painting them, I have 10 times what I need for my new layout (old was much larger) so I will try that.
I also never considered painting them. Now I don't need to, because I'm converting everything to over-center springs and finger operation.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I also never thought about painting the body of my ground throws. However, I do paint one side of the handle green to indicate the "normal" setting and the other side red to indicate the "diverging" route from the main line. This seems to help my operators a lot.
Hornblower
I've never painted mine, but I'm surprised that paint sticks to them, as they're made from engineering plastic. I recently removed almost four dozen of them, as many were hard to reach once the partial second level was added to my layout.
I still use them in my staging yards, though, and they've been very reliable over the many years they've been in service.
Wayne
Pruitt I also never considered painting them. Now I don't need to, because I'm converting everything to over-center springs and finger operation.
Alton Junction
hornblower I also never thought about painting the body of my ground throws. However, I do paint one side of the handle green to indicate the "normal" setting and the other side red to indicate the "diverging" route from the main line. This seems to help my operators a lot.
Likewise it helps me alot. I paint one side of the head of the lever green and the other side red. IIRC I painted a white undercoat first. All being Testers paint pens.
If the ground throw's head goes down onto the ground, (because someone over threw it/pushed it to far down with their finger) don't pick at it with your fingernail, just poke the center bearing with your finger and the head will pop right up off the ground.
I had maybe a half dozen that felt scratchy when thrown, so a tiny little drop of plastic compatable oil on the bearing made them move smoothly. No troubles since with those few.
PC101If the ground throw's head goes down onto the ground, (because someone over threw it/pushed it to far down with their finger) don't pick at it with your fingernail,
I tapped some spikes in to act as keepers so the lever doesn't fall too low. Makes the lever easy to pick up:
Throw-220a by Edmund, on Flickr
Regards, Ed
Pretty much same here, although I do still have some Atlas #6 and a few Walthers curved turnouts which don't have the finger flick feature so I will probably use some of my existing Caboose Industries ground throws or another brand.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
gmpullman I tapped some spikes in to act as keepers so the lever doesn't fall too low. Makes the lever easy to pick up: Throw-220a by Edmund, on Flickr Regards, Ed
gmpullmanI tapped some spikes in to act as keepers so the lever doesn't fall too low. Makes the lever easy to pick up: Throw-220a by Edmund, on Flickr Regards, Ed
Can flesh out what you are saying with the over center springs? Are you saying you are converting to Peco turnouts or have you found a reasonable, practical homemade over center spring?
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gmpullman PC101 If the ground throw's head goes down onto the ground, (because someone over threw it/pushed it to far down with their finger) don't pick at it with your fingernail, I tapped some spikes in to act as keepers so the lever doesn't fall too low. Makes the lever easy to pick up: Throw-220a by Edmund, on Flickr Regards, Ed
PC101 If the ground throw's head goes down onto the ground, (because someone over threw it/pushed it to far down with their finger) don't pick at it with your fingernail,
Yes I have done the same with the nails when I have ground throws on Homosote or cork over plywood. The nails will stay put. When I have ground throws on 1/2'' blue foam board over plywood and maybe also ground throws on top of cork and 1/2'' blue foam, the nails would have to be maybe a good 1'' long.
Just curious what you are doing, can you share?
PC101...If the ground throw's head goes down onto the ground, (because someone over threw it/pushed it to far down with their finger) don't pick at it with your fingernail, just poke the center bearing with your finger and the head will pop right up off the ground....
You're suggestion is right-on, and that's part of the benefit of using the sprung version of the Caboose Industries ground throws...
press down...
...the handle lifts...
...grasp the partially-raised handle...
...and complete the throw...
I never bothered to paint the ground throws to show the position of the points, as my around-the-room layout allows me to walk alongside the train as it's running, flipping turnouts as needed.
This picture is the same ground throw from a different angle.
Is there a reason you didn't mount it on the headblock ties before cutting them?
hbgatsfIs there a reason you didn't mount it on the headblock ties before cutting them?
Hello,
In the case of the Caboose Shinohara adapter, mounting ON the headblock ties makes the Caboose throw too high plus the headblock ties really don't extend far enough under the throw to support it properly. And I would have had to hack them away in order to get the very delicate contact pins through the roadbed anyway.
The particular photo I posted shows a somewhat larger wood mounting pad than I usually use (5mm luan plywood) and I haven't "cleaned" up the installation with additional trimming and ballasting.
IDRick Just curious what you are doing, can you share?
"It's the South Shore Line, Jim - but not as we know it".
gmpullman hbgatsf Is there a reason you didn't mount it on the headblock ties before cutting them? Hello, In the case of the Caboose Shinohara adapter, mounting ON the headblock ties makes the Caboose throw too high plus the headblock ties really don't extend far enough under the throw to support it properly. And I would have had to hack them away in order to get the very delicate contact pins through the roadbed anyway.
hbgatsf Is there a reason you didn't mount it on the headblock ties before cutting them?
Got it, thanks. You may have saved me from making a big mistake.
I asked because I am about to install a couple of 220s on older Shinohara turnouts. One of them has a space problem so I was going to use the short pin adapter, cut the throwbar, and enlarge the hole to accept the pin. I need to look at it closer to be sure I can use the headblock ties as they are and have enough support.
Can you tell me if the adapter can be removed once installed without breaking something?
hbgatsfCan you tell me if the adapter can be removed once installed without breaking something?
Yes, probably a few times but the "latch" may begin to weaken after more than a few attempts.
The "hook" style adapter which, I assume, is the one for Shinohara is a rather tight fit and I've found the throwbar needs to be trimmed ever so slightly plus the horizontal hole molded in needs to be opened up a little.
You can use the pin setup by trimming some of the top ridge of the throwbar and drilling a new hole.
Good Luck, Ed
Never knew the push option to raise the lever, was never mentioned by the owner the times we talked.
hbgatsf...I need to look at it closer to be sure I can use the headblock ties as they are and have enough support....
It's easy enough to add to the length of the headblock ties, as there are always left-over ties after tracklaying. Trim them to the length needed, and, if they're too thick, use a file or sandpaper to alter them appropriately.
I'm late to the party (again) but to answer the OP's original question.....
My now gone layout had 14 Caboose Hobbies ground throws for the non mainline turnouts that were within easy reach. All were painted with a flat black acrylic, and mounted with screws. I found it amazing that a simple coat of flat paint could be such a huge help in making the things almost disappear into the layout.
What also surprised me was that they operated flawlessly for the life of the layout (12 yrs) and I got a kick out of using them.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
mobilman44 I'm late to the party (again) but to answer the OP's original question..... My now gone layout had 14 Caboose Hobbies ground throws for the non mainline turnouts that were within easy reach. All were painted with a flat black acrylic, and mounted with screws. I found it amazing that a simple coat of flat paint could be such a huge help in making the things almost disappear into the layout. What also surprised me was that they operated flawlessly for the life of the layout (12 yrs) and I got a kick out of using them.
Ok. Did you paint the whole ground throw or did you make an effort to keep the paint out of the working part?
mobilman44What also surprised me was that they operated flawlessly for the life of the layout (12 yrs) and I got a kick out of using them.
I was always satisfied with the Caboose Industries ground throws - they were easy to install, required no maintenance, and worked flawlessly when properly installed. Mine have lasted over 30 years, although I did remove about 40 of them when I added a partial second level to my layout, making many of them difficult to reach.For replacements, I used Rapido's motor-drive ones, along with somewhat similar motorised ones from Fulgurex/PFM. The rest of the unreachables use the BluePoint devices. My staging yards, with no scenery, structures, or ballast, still use the ground throws from Caboose Industries.
Hey you guys that have been around in the hobby for a while now, does anybody remember when this type of ground throw was made of metal? Or do I have a foggy mind?
Rick,
In examining them, it looks like I painted the parts that show when the bar is straight up. I did put it on lightly, and of course threw the bar back and forth after it dried. This freed up any sticking, and they worked just fine. The plastic (delrin?) they use is really top notch, and they make for a durable product.