I have been building my model railroad and uncoupling cars with with a rubberised dental pick end inserted into a styrene tube, works much better than the bamboo I used before but it got me to thinking about other options for out of the way places. Used to use Kadee undertrack magnets but track is in on new layout so that option would be a pain. Others have used super magnets in both round and square. Which is best, what placement is best. Also ran accross someone who files off the inside lip on his Kadee couplers so they seperate easier with the skewers.
I originally planned to use magnets for all uncoupling. As my layout developed, though, I found I needed more uncoupling locations, usually on the main lines where I did not want magnets because they cause unnecessary uncoupling. So, I've decided that I'm actually happy with bamboo skewers.
I have a few magnets to uncouple in awkward spots that are hard to reach, but I can live with a few of those.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I used the cylindrical super magnets (3 pair) in a few places. I made the mistake of putting them on the mainline in some spots, but slack would cause uncoupling there too often. So I bit the bullet and added the Kadee electromagnet push-button coils on the mainline. A bit of a project after the track was in (unballasted) but worth it. A satisfying project.
Uncouplers3 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
Uncouplers4 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
Uncouplers6 (2) by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr
The red momentary push buttons are now labelled.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Here are two companies that make remote DCC couplers to mount on cars and locomotives. They operate anywhere on a layout.
https://www.precimodels.com/en/8-products/1-dcc-uncouplers Conversion for Kadee couplers. About $20.00 each car
https://www.smart-coupler.com/ Subarashi Models Complete units with Kadee heads. About $30.00 each car
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
DSchmittHere are two companies that make remote DCC couplers to mount on cars and locomotives. They operate anywhere on a layout.
Hi DSchmitt,
Those are both very interesting uncoupling systems. Thanks for the links.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
peahrens So I bit the bullet and added the Kadee electromagnet push-button coils on the mainline. A bit of a project after the track was in (unballasted) but worth it. A satisfying project.
Paul: How awkward is it to hold down a push button to activate the Kadee coil uncoupler while you operate the train?
I would like to control the Kadee uncoupler with a 30 second timer, but have not experimented with this yet.
I have several of the Kadee coil uncouplers stashed away, but the Rapido switchman uncoupler is also very interesting.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
DaveAfter attempting to purchase a pair of the Subarashi remote couplers with no response I gave it a shot at making one.I used a cell phone vibrator motor to open a Kadee #158 coupler. It works OK but I rarely run the locomotive so I don’t know how reliable it would be long term.
You can tell by the accumulated dust it sits a lot.I used a Digitrax decoder function F3 (momentary) to operate the coupler. I works very good on straight track but not so good on curved track.I don’t do any switching on my layout, I only tried it to see if I could make it work. Too much trouble to install them for my needs. I only remote uncouple on two hidden tracks where I have Kadee Electric Uncouplers. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
DSchmitt Here are two companies that make remote DCC couplers to mount on cars and locomotives. They operate anywhere on a layout. https://www.precimodels.com/en/8-products/1-dcc-uncouplers Conversion for Kadee couplers. About $20.00 each car https://www.smart-coupler.com/ Subarashi Models Complete units with Kadee heads. About $30.00 each car
Think I will try filing off the lip on a kadee as I have many unused.
I installed three electromagnetic Rapido uncouplers on the mainline of my layout. I installed Bachmann magnetic ones for my yard. It's a good combination. Just make sure not to use cars with steel wheel axles - they are the usual culprits of uncoupling issues.
Simon
Thanks for bringing up about the magnets. I used one on the 1st one at the throat to the yard. It worked fine but I might either follow the items here or use the bamboo skewers. There are plusses/minuses to both.
I just use a small jeweler's screwdriver or a bamboo skewer to uncouple wherever I need to. I haven't noticed the prototype stopping only at specific spots to uncouple, so I don't either.
In my Casper yard I have a few spots that are a bit of a lean to reach, so when I need to drop cars there I uncouple in a more convenient spot where I only need to push the cars where they go, then manually set the Kadees into the "delay" mode and push the cars into position.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I used to be all about remote uncoupling - that reaching into the scene was "cheating". Having used skewers and picks on the HOn3 modular club layout, I've changed my mind to a major extent.
The idea of remote uncoupling sounds great - but then I've realized how limiting it would be to switching operations. I'm all for the cylindrical super magnets, but even they have their drawbacks. Unless located under the rail, they tend to be visible - especially on handlaid track. Locating under the rail means locating the magnets before I've even laid the track. If the magnets are made truly invisible, then I don't know where they are for the uncoupling movements. And I have to put in some other kind of marker.
Is using an uncoupling pick more unsightly than having permanent markers of some kind where my uncoupling ramps are?
My modules and home layout are carefully designed for walkaround control. Switch machines (electric or manual) are actuated on location by controls on the fascia. Plugs for my Powercab or DC throttle are also located at the correct intervals for ease of following a train, or switching movements within the area.
So using uncoupling picks makes the layout so much simpler, and more reliable for switching operations. The only time I'm going to put in the magnets would be where reaching in with the pick might damage scenery. My scenery isn't far enough along to worry about that yet.
Fred W
....modeling foggy coastal Oregon in HO and HOn3, where it's always 1900....
You could just bend the Kadee trip pin inwards towards the "metal" mounting screw that holds the coupler to car. Wave a magnet wand over the top side of car over where the end of the screw would be, and uncouple ANYWHERE you want without the need for magnets under the track - or mechanical mechanisms under the floor.
If you can pick up paper clips by magetizing a nail, you can certainly attract a Kadee trip pin by magnetizing the mounting screw.
Regards,
PMR
SeeYou190SeeYou190 wrote the following post 3 days ago: peahrens So I bit the bullet and added the Kadee electromagnet push-button coils on the mainline. A bit of a project after the track was in (unballasted) but worth it. A satisfying project. Paul: How awkward is it to hold down a push button to activate the Kadee coil uncoupler while you operate the train?
I honestly have not used these a lot as I tend to usually just run trains around (more accurately, the grandkids do). I installed the electromatic uncouplers to solve the random uncoupling, plus found it an interesting project.
I can use my NCE throttle in one hand to back up, push and hold the button a few seconds with the other hand as the couplers to be released get atop the magnet, and then hit reverse for the front section of the train to pull away. It would be tougher to go increasingly slow, stop monentarily, then slowly accelerate away, with one hand, prototypically. It fits my pistol sufficiently. I would use these again on a mainline or other straight section.
Well yesterday I was unpacking cars for the layout so I got to switch cars as I filled up the sidings. The the rubberized dental pick on the end of a very small styrene tube worked very well, only drawback was enough light to see the insersion point, true of all pick methods but unlike the bamboo, the little fingers of ruber really grabed the coupler.
Has anyone made a pick with a length of fiber optic to illuminate the tip, or wired a small LED as a light source above the tip? Either the fiber or the leads could be routed down the OP's styrene tube...
Used on my layout
The use of a permanent uncoupling magnet to make him momentary, no more false uncoupling.
Work great and easy to do and install.
First pictures are from my friend Jacques Leplat who " invented the device"
The fact is just the field of the magnet uncouple only in one way; if you turn 90° the magnet it didn't uncouple anymore since the field is in the wrong way; this has no incidence.
You can move the magnet by hand with a linkage or with a servo if you prefer.
A hole is just necessary in the middle of the track; for my N scale layout I use HO Kaddee permanent magnet cut in two.
On Jacques device he added a lock system which hold the magnet in position with a piano wire put in tension; the wire and brass rod you see on the pictures
The four pictures of Jacques Leplat
How it works, the magnet not in the way of the file of track but perpendicular to the track, no uncoupling action and second, when turned 90° in the way of file of track he open the coupler and uncouple.
Tried the led but the housing for battery was too large to be comfortable but might be able to redesign.
fwright...If the magnets are made truly invisible, then I don't know where they are for the uncoupling movements. And I have to put in some other kind of marker....
On most of my layout, the tracks are easily accessible, so I use the RIX magnetic tool for uncoupling. However, for the staging yards, I use the Kadee in-track magnets, and mark their location with a yellow post (styrene rod)...
A black stripe (decal) around the post indicates the location of the magnet, while two or more stripes indicate that there are magnets at the same point in the tracks beyond the one with the post.
The one shown below is on-layout, but is a bit of a reach from the operating aisle, so also indicated by a yellow post...
The delayed magnetic couplers allow the loco to spot the two boxcars at different doors of the factory, albeit not in the same move.
There are similar installations at hard-to-reach locations around the layout.
Wayne