Code 55 n-scale

[Anonymous]

This depends on which Code 55 you are working with. If you are working with Peco code 55, that is actually code 80 height rail (shaped appropriately) sunk into the ties a little bit. They connect directly with Code 80 rail (with a little filing possibly needed), and require a little work getting the bottom of the ties supported to get the tops of the rails at the right level.

For all other code 55 rail, I used a combination of two methods between all of the different rail sizes I used. One is the tried and true method that GTIRR mentioned. Another method is that I used my Dremel to "notch" about 3/16" of the code 80 rail, so that the code 55 would sit on the bottom part left after I "notched" it, and then soldered everything together.

---jps

[Anonymous]

I used to make a "Compromise Joint' by smashing half of the Code 80 rail joiner flat and then soldering the Code 55 rail on top. All you are really concerned about is the top surface of the rail.
And I think Rail Craft also makes rail jointers that go from one code to the other.
gtirr

[Paul Milenkovic]

The code means thousandths of an inch. You know, the local hobby store has brass sheet in .024 (24 thousandths) thickness, and 24 plus 55 equals 79, and no one is going to notice that last 1 thousandth, so that is your shim material right there.

[Anonymous]

Kinda new but i was curious if I can mix code 55 with code 80?? Mabey if I raise the roadbed under the code 55 where it meets the code 80. Or better yet, Does anybody know of anyone that makes a crossing other than 11.25 degrees??? Either way work for me because the crossing will not be easily seen so I am not too concerned with the visual aspect of it.
Thanks.