Be sure to install the outer scenery first, so that you have a hard time reaching in to install the inner scenery.
Hi Kikkertje,
Congratulations on taking the plunge, and welcome to the forums!
Re: #2, You might want to include a sheet of thin plywood under the foam. That will make it much easier to attach things like Tortoise switch motors and terminal strips. The plywood doesn't have to be very thick to hold screws - 3/32" luan would be fine.
Re: #3, here are two pieces of track, Code 83 at the back and Code 100 in front:
Code 83 looks better in most people's opinions, but once the track is ballasted the difference isn't quite so noticable. Code 100 would be better if you are going to run older cars and locomotives like some Riverossi cars with so called 'pizza cutter' (i.e. very deep) wheel flanges. Code 100 is also slightly cheaper usually.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
BigDaddyI stand by my original comment on Atlas.
BigDaddyAtlas is floppy and easy to form into a curve.
Yep, I will stand by that too. So "floppy" it is, and shall always be.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
You would be in bad shape if only one side bends. What really happens is one side slides in the ties, the other side is fixed, or they both slide a little.
I stand by my original comment on Atlas.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
LastspikemikeAtlas flex track is the stiffest to bend, only one side bends. Peco is easy to bend and both sides bend.
Peco is easy to bend and both sides bend.
This is backward.
Atlas is the most flexible and makes S curves easily.
I agree with pretty much everything Kevin (SeeYou190) said. What I do:
I use cork. It's cheap and easy. You have the option of buying the Midwest cork roadbed (the "expensive" cork alternative), or if you have a lot of track to lay, you can buy cork rolls on line and cut your own (ost per length goes way down when you do that).
I build my own switches using Fast Tracks templates. I used Tortoise machines for the powered ones, but form and install my own over-center springs on all easily accessible turnouts. Those will remain manual forever.
I like Atlas Code 83 flextrack for my mainline. It's slightly more to scale than their code 100, and I much prefer the brown tie color. The best thing about Atlas is it's easy to lay. It's easy to curve and will create natural easements from tangents. I use Microengineering code 70 for most non-mainline tracks (sidings, yards, etc.), just because it looks much better, and the smaller rail size is noticeable. It's a pain in the butt to make smooth curves with, however. Recently I've tried Peco code 70, and believe me it curves much easier than ME's track. It will be my go-to code 70 from now on.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
KikkertjeI am trying to decide if I should use cork, homosote, or the Atlas roadbed. I am planning to build it on Styrofoam so i can model the slighly undulating landscapte, but hear that it is quite noisy. What is the best road bed to use.
In my experiments, roadbed does not deaden noise once the ballast and scenery is glued in place, so use what you have access to and are comfortable using.
KikkertjeFor now I will use manual switches but in the future i will likely want to switch to electrical turnouts. What do i need to look for in the inital design and layout to make sure I do not have to do a massive overhaul of the track come that time?
This is easy with the Atlas Snap-Track turnouts (switches), but with almost every other brand it will be difficult.
I find the Atlas switch machines quite ugly.
The best technique I know of to facilitate this is to drill the subroadbed for a Circuitron Tortoise switch machines when the turnout is put in place, then control it with a Caboose Industries ground throw. When the time comes to update to a powered switch machine, remove the ground throw and install the Tortoise from the bottom.
KikkertjeWhat is better: code 100 or Code 93 ("83" corrected) track and why?
From a mechanical point of view, neither is better than the other. Code 83 generally has more trackage options available, and is closer to scale rail height. Frankly, once painted, the 0.017" difference is pretty hard for me to see.
Code 70 and 55 are obviously smaller.
KikkertjeI will use flex track for most of the track, just wondering what brand is the best and why do you prefer it.
I do not know which is best. I use Atlas code 83 flex track because it is easy to obtain, is easy to work with, and matches my Walthers/Shinohara code 83 turnouts quite well.
1 Ken Patterson runs directly on foam, (extuded polystyrene, not the styrofoam that cheap coolers were made from 30 years ago) You can catch his videos on youtube, the noise is not objectionable but I use cork. Precut homosote roadbed was the best, but it is no longer available.
2 You want to drill a 3/8" hole under the center of the throwbar. The ability to power the frog is desireable, though not all of us have found it necessary. The Atlas turnouts with the plastic frogs (snap switches) cannot be powered.
If you think you might want to power frogs, wire them now and let the wire hang below the layout.
#7 sounds like a long turnout for a layout with fairly sharp radii.
3) Code 83 looks better
4) Atlas is floppy and easy to form into a curve. Micro Engineering needs to be massaged to from smooth curves. Atlas is also generally cheaper.
5) Nada, we can't see google photos in this forum. You have to store the photo on a free site like Flickr or Imgur. There is a How To thread in the General forum.
After 40 years of thinking and dreaming about it but being either too busy with the family, or being transient for work, i have finally decided to take the plunge. I want to start with a modest 4 by 9 table top layout, with a small piece at about 53"wide at one end, just to get the ohang of things. I have included an image of the trackplan i have selected. It will model grain and oil country in the rolling landscape around Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. I am looking for any comments, positive or negative on the plan.
Minimum track radius is 18" with the bulk of the main line 20 and 20" radius. The turn outs are all #7.
Some specific questions/concern i have are as follows