I would recommend using Elmer's Carpenter glue, which you can use weights on instead of clamping.
What about attaching hydrocal rock castings to hardshell?
Rick
hbgatsfGoing beyond the project that I started this thread for, does the caulk replace construction adhesive completely or are there still applications for that?
Caulk is good for everything that doesn't need to be ultra strong. Such as, if you're making your benchwork framing out of foam, construction adhesive (the foam safe kind, obviously) would be the way to go. It forms a bond that is probably stronger than the foam itself.
For anything else though, I prefer the translucent Alex Plus caulk. It still provides a decent stick, it has a good long working time, easy clean up, you can save the tube for later, etc.
Construction adhesive on the other hand is very smelly, has more VOCs, shorter working time, and I've found it's a lot harder to seal the tube and save for another use than caulk.
gmpullman tstage DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk I find lots of uses on the layout for this. Another advantage is that before the caulk cures it is easy to "work" . Also, clean-up is very easy with warm water, or on the layout I usually have a spray bottle of "wet-water" that is just right for cleaning up Dap Caulk.
tstage DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk
I find lots of uses on the layout for this. Another advantage is that before the caulk cures it is easy to "work" . Also, clean-up is very easy with warm water, or on the layout I usually have a spray bottle of "wet-water" that is just right for cleaning up Dap Caulk.
Going beyond the project that I started this thread for, does the caulk replace construction adhesive completely or are there still applications for that?
tstageI just use a long, large penny nail with an OD slightly smaller than the ID of the cut nozzle. Then just pull out the nail the next time you use it to caulk.
I used the method for years. It works great.
Just get a little caulk under the head of the nail to seal the gap, and you caulk will last a long time.
By the way... I have been watching a lot of You Tube videos on how-to subjects for the house made by Canadians. I love the way you guys pronounce "caulk" up there.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
My local ace hardware had them sitting in a little bowl by the cash register.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/caulk-and-sealants/caulking-tools-and-accessories/1529890
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BATMAN I use these as well. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/smart-cap-caulking-tube-cap/1000652537
I use these as well.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/smart-cap-caulking-tube-cap/1000652537
This is unbelievable, or I am incredibly dense. I can't find those caps on the US website. I guess I'll just try a nail.
Thanks. I feel pretty stupid for not figuring this out years ago. I don't know how much caulk I have wasted over the years.
hbgatsf tstage DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk - $2.50-$3.00 for a tube at your local home improvement store and it holds very well. Rick
tstage DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk - $2.50-$3.00 for a tube at your local home improvement store and it holds very well.
DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk - $2.50-$3.00 for a tube at your local home improvement store and it holds very well.
Rick,
I just use a long, large penny nail with an OD slightly smaller than the ID of the cut nozzle. Then just pull out the nail the next time you use it to caulk.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
hbgatsfIs there a way to keep what is left in the tube usable after it is opened?
At my Home Depot they sell the Alex caulk in squeeze tubes and gun tubes. The squeeze tubes come with a cap. SAVE THE CAP, because this cap fits the gun caulking tube also!
I also take the tip I cut off and stick it back in tip first and hold it there with tape. Works great.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
hbgatsf ... is there a way to keep what is left in the tube usable after it is opened?
... is there a way to keep what is left in the tube usable after it is opened?
I prefer to use purpose-designed caps as mentioned above, but I have put a plastic sandwich bag over the nozzle of an open silicone tube, tightened it down with a rubber band, and found it still usable months later. Doesn't always work, but if you can't find the right cap, you can at least give it a try.
-Eric
I realize this stuff is relatively inexpensive, but is there a way to keep what is left in the tube usable after it is opened? I will only need a small portion for my current application but it would be nice to have it around for other down the road.
I'm using ALEX Plus Latex Caulk WITH SILICONE and its working great. I've even had to take up some foam roadbed that had already cured, as I always do when I build a layout, and the stuff stays somewhat tacky and rubbery. I have noticed that regular ALEX painters latex caulk WITHOUT silicone can be a bit unsticky after it cures...comes up a bit too easily for my tastes.
As another has said, it is crumbly compared to the PLUS product WITH silicone.
- Douglas
selector Several sites list Aleene's tacky glue as a very good adhesive for styrofoam.
Several sites list Aleene's tacky glue as a very good adhesive for styrofoam.
I forgot about Aleene's. I am working with foamboard and not straight styrofoam, and I do need to glue some strips of poster board to the foamboard to represent pilistars. The Aleene's will be easier to work with for that. I'll probably pick up the caulk to have on hand if I don't like how the Aleene's is going to work for attaching it to the wood.
BTW - this is what I am trying to accomplish.
Loctite PL 300 Foamboard construction adhesive is made for attaching foamboard insulation to wood, concrete, etc. It is available at bix box home improvement stores in the US, and comes in tubes like caulks or other construction adhesives.
I've been using it to attach the insulation in my basement as I finish it. No problems so far.
As of Dec 2020, it is running about $3.50 for a 10oz tube in my area (northern Virginia).
selector If it has silicone, beware. It might very well attack any foams.
If it has silicone, beware. It might very well attack any foams.
hbgatsfDAP Alex Plus means plus silicone.
You're right, I have so many different brands around I get a little fuzzy:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-10-1-oz-White-Painter-s-All-Purpose-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-18609/100078928?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-100097524-_-100078928-_-N
Sorry — Ed
gmpullman tstage DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk I find lots of uses on the layout for this. Another advantage is that before the caulk cures it is easy to "work" . Also, clean-up is very easy with warm water, or on the layout I usually have a spray bottle of "wet-water" that is just right for cleaning up Dap Caulk. I avoid any of the "silicone" labeled ones. They seem to skin ofer quickly and are more difficult to paint. Regards, Ed
I avoid any of the "silicone" labeled ones. They seem to skin ofer quickly and are more difficult to paint.
Regards, Ed
DAP Alex Plus means plus silicone. Is it the other brands that are a problem?
DAP sounds like what I am looking for. Thanks.
2 in 1 poly seam seal hand squeeze tube from Menards if you never want to reverse it.
If you don't want to screw around and want the thing to bond in about 15 1/2 seconds.
Beacon Quick Grip.
That glue is almost too quick for me. I have to get myself psyched up through meditation before I use it
If you wait two or three seconds to long the stuff flashes and it's game over
Otherwise Alex plus as suggested by others that I have used if you are relaxed and have plenty of time
TF
tstage DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk - $2.50-$3.00 for a tube at your local home improvement store and it holds very well. Work time: 30-45 min. Full cure: 24 hrs. You only need a thin layer. Tom
DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk - $2.50-$3.00 for a tube at your local home improvement store and it holds very well. Work time: 30-45 min. Full cure: 24 hrs. You only need a thin layer.
tstageDAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk
Adhesive caulk should be fine. I used an adhesive for foam board when making cosplay props, but it bonded quickly, and I do not know if it would bond to wood.
I would use an acrylic caulk, or something like LePage's PL-300, which I can assure you is completely safe for foam. PL-300 takes many hours to harden to the point where you'll do some damage.
I have a section of the layout where I am going to use foamboard to make a retaining wall. I would like to use an adhesive to attach it to wood that won't need a lot of clamping, but will give me more working time than contact cement so I can tweak the position if needed. Any suggestions?