I have a model H but only use it for small touch up jobs, the 350 and HFT are just too easy to use for me.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
RR_MelAt one time I went airbrush crazy and over about six months I bought several expensive airbrushes. Never got the hang of the dual action, always ended up using the 350 or HFT.
I am pretty much the same. I have five airbrushes, but for 95% of what I do, I use the single action external mix Paasche model H.
I only get out a double action arbrush to paint camoflage patterns on small military models or to blend skin tones on large scale figures.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190I have found Vallejo's Model Color line to be the best paints for brush painting
I agree, that's what I use for painting figures etc.
One thing for the OP, I would look into using Tamiya spray can paint. Tamiya is available at hobby shops, and it's designed to be used on plastic models and uses a spray nozzle with a finer spray than most hardware store "rattle can" paints. Tamiya is primarily military colors, but there are many colors usefull for railroading too. If nothing else, their gray or white Surface Primer works very well. For figures, I find primering them first makes the brushed on colors go on much better.
Thank you Snjory!The E7 is a HO Cary cast metal body, the paint was applied using a HFT Cheapo airbrush, the paint is True Color Paint, the decals are Mel printed on an Alps MD-1000 printer in sliver and the Daylight logo on the side is Mel printed on a HP Desk Jet 990, the front logo was printed on my Alps using a silver cartridge dual pass with regular color.This was painted using 3M painters tape and the HFT airbrush.
The cheapo airbrushes work pretty good for me.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Mel, that loco is outstanding!
KevinAt one time I went airbrush crazy and over about six months I bought several expensive airbrushes. Never got the hang of the dual action, always ended up using the 350 or HFT.When I got into the E7 thing a couple of years ago and discovered True Color Paints I went crazy again. The paint dried fast enough that I could mask over it and shoot a second color quickly. That lead to making a four port air manifold so I didn’t need to clean the airbrush to change colors. I keep four of the HFT airbrushes ready to go when I get into a painting mode. Another good find was the 3M Automotive Pinstriping Tape and the 3M Painters tape. They come off easily without pulling up fresh paint.
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
RR_MelI have a Badger 350 and me thinks the HFT Cheapo is a China rip-off of the 350.
The Badger model 350 was the first airbrush I owned that I had good results using.
It is a great aribrush as a workhorse. It works well, is easy to use, and is easy to clean.
SimonI have a Badger 350 and me thinks the HFT Cheapo is a China rip-off of the 350. Badger 350 HFT
Both work great!!!
kasskabooseSuch a shame the OP hasn't chimed in and provided additional details. I've been guilty of that. I avoid it now (or try!).
The OP might still be on moderation-delay.
Hopefully that will end soon for him and we will have a new voice in the conversations.
RR_Mel I also use the HF cheapo airbrush, I have several of the name brand airbrushes but I rarely use them. The HF cheapo is easier to clean and does as good for me as the expensive ones. I made a four port manifold and four HF cheapos so I don’t have to clean the airbrush to change colors. Great when doing bigger jobs. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I also use the HF cheapo airbrush, I have several of the name brand airbrushes but I rarely use them. The HF cheapo is easier to clean and does as good for me as the expensive ones.
I made a four port manifold and four HF cheapos so I don’t have to clean the airbrush to change colors. Great when doing bigger jobs.
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
My parents bought me a Badger single-action airbrush as a present some 40 years ago. I still use that airbrush for 99% of my airbrushing. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and spare parts are still readily available. I understand the logic of buying low-cost tools, but I think it's worth buying a low-end airbrush from a good company. Compressors, now that's a different story!
A word about craft paints. I also use them, both for brush and airbrush applications, and I agree that they are totally acceptable for structures. I used some on locos too, with good results. I hate mixing paints and the price is hard to beat...
Simon
I can't decide whether this thread helps the OP or anyone who is unable to attach links to posts. Either way, no issues here.
Such a shame the OP hasn't chimed in and provided additional details. I've been guilty of that. I avoid it now (or try!).
LastspikemikeHowever, there really is no "right click" on an iPad. O/S 10 doesn't really do right click.
At least until Kalmbach gets to stage 3, the forums are likely to continue to use BBcode for tags and special functions. While of course there is no tutorial here, you can use the 'source code' option to see the codes and syntax used here, and consult one of the online references or PHPbb groups for more.
The tinyurl method is the only one I have seen actually work to insert a clickable link to another forum thread.
I use nothing but cheap craft paints for all of my modeling. With the proper brushes and a little practice, these paints can offer a smooth finish but can also provide additional texture when desired. I use a stippled brush technique to create stucco finishes on my HO scale structures. I prefer to use an airbrush to paint my rolling stock and some structures and, yes, you can use suitably thinned craft paints in an airbrush. If you have no experience with an airbrush, I would suggest you purchase a single action airbrush from Harbor Freight Tools along with one of their small pancake or hot dog style contractor's compressors (don't buy their airbrush compressor). If purchased on sale, the whole setup should not cost more than $50. You can also use the compressor for all sorts of other chores around the house. The inexpensive HFT airbrush will allow you to gain experience, including what NOT to do, before deciding to upgrade to a name brand airbrush. When you eventually destroy your first airbrush (and you will), you won't cry about losing a $10 airbrush. However, you just might find (like I did) that the HFT airbrushes work just fine and there is no need to spend more for a name brand airbrush. HFT also offers a quite nice double action airbrush for $20.
Hornblower
Mike, I thought I answered this in another thread.
You have to insert (url) before and (/url) after the html address, except the parenthesis must be brackets, instead of parethesis It does something in HTML, don't use the link icon,
Or copy the web address to tinyurl.com and they manufacture a shorter web address that you can use with the link icon
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
doctorwayneMy thanks to Selector for explaining this to me many years ago, when I first joined this Forum.
Trying what Wayne said to get a clickable link to say "click here":
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/284475.aspx
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/284475.aspx click here
Well, all attempts failed.
RR_Mel Mine didn't work either, worked from the test page but not on the Forum. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Mine didn't work either, worked from the test page but not on the Forum.
To create a clickable link, right-click on the subject to which you wish to link, then, from the drop-down menu which appears, select "Copy link location".
In the place where you wish to place the link, type after the last character of the pasted data.
Next, type in a word or phrase (or even a four-page essay, if you wish) which will become the actual clickable link. Follow that immediately (no space) with
When you post it, the line of data and all the other [,/,] and urls will disappear, leaving only the coloured clickable link.
My thanks to Selector for explaining this to me many years ago, when I first joined this Forum.
Wayne
20200927_135150 on Flickr
Agree
riogrande5761 It would be helpful if you made the topic title more specific for readers perusing the forums. Please. Thanks.
It would be helpful if you made the topic title more specific for readers perusing the forums. Please. Thanks.
Agreed. I use cheap craft paint for figures/structures but again, it depends on what we're painting. For scenery, I use the interior paint at the 'oops table' of HD or Lowes.
LastspikemikeBut it probably won't paste as a live link.
I'd like to say it's bugs in the software, not in the wetware... but I'm still left abjectly asking the better-gifted to post thread links 'clickable'.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Marike Reimer is my favorite brush painter.
This is a preview for one of her DVDs:
MikeN8FWDWhat are the best paints for brushing?
As well as links to some of the excellent work done in communities outside model railroading -- and tutorials and advice on brush-painting technique in them. (That shouldn't run afoul of the Kalmbach TOS concerning 'rival forums'...)
This is an opinnion, and I am not calling any differing opinnion wrong...
I have found Vallejo's Model Color line to be the best paints for brush painting, with Citadel being second.
Both of these are water soluable paint lines.
I always thin these paints with Vallejo's Acrylic Thinner and never paint straight from the bottle. I use a Masterson wet pallette.
I model in HO scale, I use brushes with water base Acrylics for figures (hundreds of colors available in Crafters Acrylics) and wooden structures. I use solvent base for plastics and metal. I also use Krylon & Rustoleum Automotive Primer for priming plastics and metal both go on thick, they go on thick and can cover small details easily.I primarily use Solvent paints when using an airbrush, water based Acrylics will work in an airbrush just more touchy.My preference for locomotives and rolling stock is True Color Paint airbrush or brush. They have standard railroad colors, mostly gloss but a lot in flat too.I use Testors spray Clear Dullcote to take the gloss out and sealer for decals. Krylon & Rustoleum matte work but they’re thicker than Testors.
For detail painting you can't beat Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brushes.
Brushed Crafters Acrylics
Welcome to the forums.
Makes a difference what you are painting, rolling stock, structers (wood or styrene), scenery?
One suggestion, if you are painting plastics (there are a vaiety of kinds) and not using acrylics or latex, try them out on a piece of scrap and see if it reacts. Wood and plaster based products can ususlly take most any type of paint, though may need surface preparation.
Once folks know what you want to paint, maybe they can give you some suggestons..
Good luck,
Richard
What are the best paints for brushing? I am new and will start with brushing instead of airbrushing. Also can I use rustoleum spray then use the acrylic with that?
Thanks Big Mike