Hello everyone, i am in the process of adding a scenic divider made out of 1/8" masonite hard board in order to divide 2 different scenes from one another. My question is this....Looking at the attached pictures how would be the best way to attach or mount the hard board to my layout? I have 2" of foam board setting on 1/2" plywood and i would like to be able to just cut a straight channel into the foam board but im not sure how to anchor it to make sure it is solid??? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated! Thanks everyone!
I took a 2x4 and dadoed a channel a little over an inch deep in it to accept the divider and attached it to the foam with latex caulk. I also added some short angle brackets on top, but not sure they were necessary. They were only attached to the 2x4 and bent out slightly. I did not secure the divider other than slip it into the channel, as I wanted it to be removeable for transport. Built up scenery around the 2x4.
Good luck,
Richard
Thanks Richard, i never considered that.......:)
cowman I took a 2x4 and dadoed a channel a little over an inch deep in it to accept the divider and attached it to the foam with latex caulk. I also added some short angle brackets on top, but not sure they were necessary. They were only attached to the 2x4 and bent out slightly. I did not secure the divider other than slip it into the channel, as I wanted it to be removeable for transport. Built up scenery around the 2x4. Good luck, Richard
Question....if i dont have access to a dadoed how would anyone recommend cutting a channel in the 2x4? I dont have either a router or dadoed so im a little concerned.....Thanks!
Just a couple of thoughts. 1/8" hardboard will be very wavy and not look good. 1/4" will stand up much better.
I have seen on more than one occasion a divider removed and a bit of a hill built up to separate the scene. This allows you to view the whole layout without following the train constantly. You know your plans as far as how you will run trains but the idea of seeing your trains without following it around can be an attractive option.
I used 10/32 screws and T-nuts to hold my backdrop on and sections together so I can take the layout apart really fast with the drill.
I thought of a divider on this 18' long bench, then decided to raise the terrain down the centre instead. A divider is like a tunnel and makes your train disappear.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Trainzman2435Question....if i dont have access to a dadoed how would anyone recommend cutting a channel in the 2x4? I dont have either a router or dadoed so im a little concerned.....Thanks!
Just cut the 2x4 in half and screw through one half of the 2x4 through the panel and into the other half. Then I would cut a channel in your foam anchor the 2x4 to the plywood. You fill in over the 2x4 with foam and scenery.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
I would consider a variation on what Chip said. Depending on how high the divider is going to be, you may need more support. I'd consider using two boards, either 2x4 or 1x4 should work if you secure it to the plywood well. Cut the foam out down the middle wide enough for the two boards and the backdrop panel. Attach one board to the plywood. Push the other board up against the backdrop panel like a clamp - not too tight that you can't lift it out, unless you don;t mind it being more of a permanent installation, but not loose enough that it wobbles,a dn secure the second board. Yes, this will stick up above the 2" foam a bit, but you cna build scenery up to that to cover the edges.
If you have something else to bend around the outside edge to make more of a bulged radius instead of sharp edge - a piece of metal flashing, linoleum flooring, etc - you could also hide a vertical stiffener at the end to help with wobbles.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BATMAN...I thought of a divider on this 18' long bench, then decided to raise the terrain down the centre instead. A divider is like a tunnel and makes your train disappear....
I agree: a divider looks okay, until you get to the end of it, where it becomes an unprototypical feature of the scenery. If the layout were wider, the divider (using 1/8" Masonite) could be curved roughly parallel to the track, folding back onto itself, which would at least provide a less conspicuous end for the divider.
Raising the terrain between the tracks will look better, and if some decent-size trees (70'/80') are added atop that, it should be enough to keep the separate appearance of both sides, while still allowing visibility of the train from either side.
EDIT: After looking at the OP's initial photo again, a wrap-around divider could be installed, using 1/8" Masonite.I used the same material to cove all of the 10 corners (inside & outside) of my layout room. The photo below shows (sorta) the coved outside corner of the walls in the background, but the layout fascia, especially that on the lower level, illustrates the flexibility of 1/8" Masonite - the radius of that cure is roughly 8"...
This view better-shows the coving around the outside corner...
Wayne
Do you have a table saw or skill saw (hand held circular saw.)? If so, just adjust the rip fence slightly until enough material has been cut away. If you don't have access to a saw to cut the pieces, take two 1x3's and scew them together to clamp the backdrop (doesn't need to be tight), then attach the boards to the foam with adhesive
doctorwayneI agree: a divider looks okay, until you get to the end of it, where it becomes an unprototypical feature of the scenery. Raising the terrain between the tracks will look better, and if some decent-size trees (70'/80') are added atop that, it should be enough to keep the separate appearance of both sides, while still allowing visibility of the train from either side.
Right. I plan to have a divider that ends similarly. But there are probably disguise it. One could have a hill or mountain there. Perhaps other features used creatively to hide the end.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Is there a reason not to treat this as a tension system, hanging the backdrop from equalized overhead suspension and just using periodic suspended weights under the layout to keep it straight and stabilized? I'd think anything else would buckle and bend and not hold lateral curves at all well...
Little more than a ⅛ slot in the scenery needed to accommodate the 'bottom' of it...
To disquise the end of my scenic divider I used a deep rock cut on a curve, the other end is a thick stand of tall trees.. If that doesn't fit your situation such things as going under a bridge or behind a building, can make the train disappear and you don't notice the end of the divider.