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Flexible rock facings

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Central Vermont
  • 4,565 posts
Posted by cowman on Thursday, September 10, 2020 6:29 PM

For my deep rock cut  I used crumpled and flattened tin foil as the mold for Sculptamold.  As it started to dry I put it against the foam base and it has done well.  Sorry, I don't have a photo account.

Good luck,

Richard

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Thursday, September 10, 2020 1:54 PM

Bragdon Enterprises how-to page on using their flexible molds;

http://www.bragdonent.com/articles.htm

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, September 10, 2020 1:00 PM

For simple curves, you can curve Hydrocal castings while they are almost set up but not quite hard.  This was made with a cut stone mold.  I cut a simple form from pink foam and curved the mold over it about 10 minutes after I poured the Hydrocal, while it was still slightly soft but no longer runny.  This is a concave casting.  For convex castings, simply put a piece of Saran Wrap over the Hydrocal side before you bend it.

 

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Posted by peahrens on Thursday, September 10, 2020 12:45 PM

I'm 98% certain that I used Cripplebush on this curve.  I would definitely recommend the products.  In this photo, the outcropping on the lower right end is hydrocal rock casting, and the curve continuing to the tunnel (and above same) is the Cripplebush rubber rock.

The rubber rock was nice for the curve as I did not want the depth of casting there, and the relatively thin rubber rock was easy to just hot glue to the upper plywood curve edge and to the base plywood below.  

I found it nice to use the Hydrocal castings in some places and the rubber rock in others, to have more options.  I painted both a shade of slate gray, then colored with about 6-8 acrylics colors (all the way to white highlights). Maybe a black wash in there somewhere.  When painted similarly, the castings and rubber rock blend superbly.

 20200424_084006 by Paul Ahrens, on Flickr

 

 

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, September 10, 2020 11:59 AM

You might look at Brandon Foam rock castings.  I've done a few of these.  They use a chemical resin for castings.  Their molds are superior to most of the plaster molds I've used, but you can use those, too.

The castings are very lightweight.  They are stiff when the resin hardens, but just reheating the castings with a hair dryer will temporarily restore flexibility.

I have a couple of their larger molds.  You can cut the finished casting with a knife or strong scissors.

www.bragdonent.com

The level if detail of these rock faces is much better than a standard Hydrocal casting.  Yes, there is a bit of a learning curve, both for the casting and for the painting process, which is a multi-colored series of washes to achieve the best effect.

This is some castings just out of the mold.  They are white in color.  These are quite large.  I cut the larger ones in half horizontally for long, thin strips to put behind the one visible track.  There are 4 staging tracks behind the castings.

This is a couple of the cut pieces, joined with some plaster.

Here is the whole rock face, loosely assembled.  This has the first coat of coloring on it, brushed with black, dry Tempera paint and then lightly swabbed with a sponge.  The black gets into the crevices and deepens them to the eye.

Ths is an earlier picture with the painting finished.

 

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
  • 11,439 posts
Posted by dknelson on Thursday, September 10, 2020 9:44 AM

Not the least of the virtues of the Cripplebush flexible (foam rubber like a pillow innards I assume) rock facings is for protection where the track curves near a benchwork edge but for whatever reason a backdrop is not practical or wanted. There are various ideas out there to prevent derailed or speedy trains from flying off the edge of the earth -- trees made with stout nails as tree trunks being one popular option -- but the flexible rock facings have the added virtue of not damaging the cars or locomotives that attempt to take wing.

Dave Nelson

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,367 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Thursday, September 10, 2020 1:17 AM

It has been quite a few years now but I bought several cripplebush rubber rocks and I'm quite satisfied with them. I have one of their river beds, too. Good stuff.

 IMG_2475 by Edmund, on Flickr

Cheers, Ed

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
  • 18,255 posts
Posted by SeeYou190 on Thursday, September 10, 2020 12:51 AM

I have not been happy with the Chooch flexible products.

I bought a bunch of flexible rocks castings at Legacy Station near Atlanta, Georgia that are fantastic. Each one is about 10 inches by 14 inches and about 1 inch thick.

Unfortunately I have no idea who made them.

-Kevin

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Thursday, September 10, 2020 12:02 AM

http://cripplebush.net/

Good luck.  They sent my order within a couple of weeks.

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Huntsville, Alabama
  • 207 posts
Flexible rock facings
Posted by jimnorton on Thursday, September 10, 2020 12:00 AM

I am getting ready to model cuts on my HO layout.  A few years back, I was introduced to flexible rock facings or bluffs.  These were great as they curved easily.  Now, that its time to purchase these they seem very scarce.  Does anybody have a good source?  Chooch makes flexible stacked rock walls but no natural outcroppings.  Any advice greatly appreciated.   

Jim Norton

Huntsville, AL

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