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The SetTrack double-curved turnouts are very tight. Even the outer path is not much broader than 18” radius, if at all. I think it might be what PECO calls R2, which is 17¼”. Even if were R3, that’s only 19 7/8”. The path is also fairly short. I don’t know if one could cut the web of the ties (sleepers) and adjust it enough. Even if you managed to spread it a bit, this will still be a much tighter spot than your 25” minimum radius.
Although it may not be possible given that it’s the inner line, the best approach would probably be to look at replacing those SetTrack turnouts with the PECO Code 100 Streamline parts (such as SLE87). Though still relatively compact, those have much broader radii.
2” track-center-to-track-center spacing may also lead to sideswiping with some combinations of equipment running simultaneously on the inner and outer ovals (if they are concentric). NMRA standards suggest wider spacing depending on the equipment type.
Good luck with your layout.
Byron
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
I recollect an article by Pelle Soeberg in MR about doing this with Peco turnouts: cutting the web beneath the rail so that in essence the track becomes flex track, within reason of course. I do not recall if he created a bit of curve on a regular turnout, or enlarged the radius of a curved turnout.
I have not tried it myself and I admit that I would have been more willing to give it a try back when Peco turnouts were under $10.
Dave Nelson
There are forum members who have successfully cut tie webbing to alter the shape of the track by a few degrees, but it may not solve your problem as has been mentioned.
- Douglas
to the Model Railroader forums.
I do not have any experience with Peco HO scale turnouts to speak of, but I do own two brass 4-8-2 and a spectrum 4-8-2. These locomotives need 24 inch radius curves to run reliably.
Just by the description, I think you would be trying to stretch these Peco turnouts too far.
I have had no problems (knock on wood) running these through Shinohara #7 curved turnouts, even thought the inner curve is actually tighter than 24 inches..
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I learned in short order that I was going to have to mangle all my curved W/S turnouts on my second build in 2006. The outer radius was pretty solid, but the inner radius was about 3" less than advertized. So, I inverted mine, all six of them, and cut all of the stringers between the ties on both routes BEYOND the frog...not on the points end. That got me to where I needed to be, but even that surgery put the routes at the extent of all reasonable limits. Another 1/2" would probably have started popping the rails out of the spikehead details.
If you do this to whichever turnouts you decide to use, it won't be sufficient to just cut those stringers. The ones under the outer rail will actually have to be excised to make room for the closure that will take place when you bend the route.
I note the OP said he was only hanging up in the diverging track, so in my opinion the approach should be sound.I As pointed out this is the main, not the diverging curve. I was not thinking of the switch configuration correctly. Text below edited slightly to conform.
I think that to maintain gauge without careful use of some kind of Ribbonrail analogue tool, he would want to actually approximate flextrack structure, which is to remove much of the alternating stringers under the rail and perhaps notch or relieve slightly the ones remaining. Here, on reflection, since he is only opening the curve, he would only remove the stringers on one side, and notch the ones on the other -- the question then becoming which side to remove - if he cut the inside stringers, the outward curving should not require any stock removal...
The gain might not be meaningful for this slight a stretch, but even a slight croggle at a piece of equipment's extreme radius might induce derailment...
Perhaps we need an Ed picture of front and back with the circles and arrows on them showing where he should cut and where he should cut away...
--Any reason you're using OO track instead of the North American pattern Streamline Peco product? The OO is intended for UK railways. SL 87 and SL 86.
Both SetTrack and Streamline C100 have basically the same appearance. The Code 83 has the "North American" appearance.
Likely the original poster is using Code 100 SetTrack because the components are much more compact than Code 83. (As are the Code 100 Streamline, as well)
OvermodI note the OP said he was only hanging up in the diverging track, so in my opinion the approach should be sound.
He actually said the hang-up is on the outer curve:
Clark G The inside loop is 25” and works except for the Peco ST245 & ST244 curved turnouts – just on the larger radius (I know they won’t make the inside 18” deverging curve)
Many thanks for your thoughts, I did look for Pelle Soeberg's articals, there were two on switces, but neither covered flexing a turnout.
LastspikemikeSL 87 and SL 86. Outside curve radius is approximately 1 meter which is 40 inches.
According to Peco's website, the outside radius on an SL-86 or SL-87 curved turnout is 1524 mm, or 60". The inside is 30" as stated.
https://peco-uk.com/products/curved-turnout-large-radius-right-hand3
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Yes you can modify turnouts but it must be well planned, lost a turnout that I did not plan well enough. I have seen people take a comecial turnout and strip all the ties and hand lay it back with modifications even.
You have a gauge problem or flashing/high frog if it's the outer route that causes problems. Does the flange gauge on an NMRA track gauge pass over and through the points, and beyond, past the guards and over the frog without major snagging or dragging? If you do get some draggning or snagging, that may be where the trouble lies. Guards not spaced properly, or too wide, maybe even too high, and the frogs can sometimes be complete messes on some turnouts. Points rails will work fine on one route, but bind up against the flanges on rolling stock the other way.
Hi Clark, railandsail here. I am a little confused about your posting.
Clark G I created a 5x9 mobile layout (separates into 3 parts) I hoped to be big enough to run some of my brass locomotives. The outside loop is 27” radius so no problems.
Clark G The inside loop is 25” and works except for the Peco ST245 & ST244 curved turnouts – just on the larger radius (I know they won’t make the inside 18” deverging curve).
They work for most locomotives including 2 articulates, but with a 4-6-2 and a 4-8-2 acquired recently I have difficultly. I then pulled a Spectrum plastic 4-8-2 and it won’t make it. They are OK going through the points and frog, but then bind on the curve past the frog.
In researching this, there was a post on Nov 15, 2018 topic: “Shinohara Curved Turnout 24/22, Code 100” which indicated you may be able to cut the ties between the diverging track and straighten them into a wider radius. Specifically, it was posted by “Railandsail” on November 19, 2018 12:44 PM. Stretching the curve just slightly on that short about 3” section should solve my problem.
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
LastspikemikeI have both Atlas and Peco in my mainline so I'll have a look later and check that the path of the track through the points is exactiy the same radius as the rest of the turnout or is it straighter?
LastspikemikeWell, I eyeballed it as best as I could and nope, the Peco curved turnout doesn't work by offsetting any of the curve. Each curve appears to be a constant radius throughout.