FRRYKidWhat I need is a way to store so that I'm not tripping over it or running over it with my chair when I'm working on the layout and not using the throttle
josephbw I have an idea that is free and extremely easy. Just run the cord up your back and over your shoulder so the throttle is in front of you. When you let go of it, it can dangle in front. Joe
I have an idea that is free and extremely easy. Just run the cord up your back and over your shoulder so the throttle is in front of you. When you let go of it, it can dangle in front.
Joe
That would work for when I'm using it. What I need is a way to store so that I'm not tripping over it or running over it with my chair when I'm working on the layout and not using the throttle.
OvermodJust be sure you put a good grommet and strain relief at the 'solder' end; there is not quite enough clamping in that box for a self-locking grommet/relief to work right.
I have always used microphone connectors for my DC walk around throttles. They are pretty small, they thread into place, and they pass plenty of current.
For this heavier cable, I would use a threaded microphone jack on the throttle box as well and it would serve as an excellent strain relief.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190The cable is made for an automobile towing a trailer,
Just be sure you put a good grommet and strain relief at the 'solder' end; there is not quite enough clamping in that box for a self-locking grommet/relief to work right.
I think I found something that will work on Amazon. I am going to order one and try to attach it to one of my Troller Trackers.
The wires are 14 gauge, so they should handle 3 amps with no problem.
The cable is made for an automobile towing a trailer, so the colors are a bit unusual (white brown green yellow) as they are ground, tail (running/clearance) light, right turn, and left turn as DOT standard. Not really a problem if you are careful.
It looks like the throttle you want to use is color coded black, red, green, and white.
You could also add a donut weight around the cord slightly heavier than the controller and a screw eye in the facia so when close the weight pulls the cord into a u shape out of the way
Hubbell does make floor-mountable four-wire retractable reels with both vertical and horizontal fairleads. (See HBLI25104 series.) These are heavy conductors for 250V power (red, black, neutral, ground) and have a mechanical pullout lock that can be user-disabled for automatic length adjustment.
I don't remember which electronics retailer I purchased them from, but I just ordered premade coiled cords for my MRC tethered throttles. I ordered fairly long cords (about 7') so that they would stretch most of the length of my longest layout aisles. These cords plug into the lower level of my layout around 36" above the floor, and the throttles are stored in holsters mounted next to the throttle bus jacks and at the same height. Yes, the cords do touch the floor when stored but they stay directly below the throttle hoslter and throttle bus jack and don't get in the way. Keep in mind that I thought it would be difficult to find RJ45 (eight wire) coil cords. If suppliers have ready made RJ45 coil cords, it should be easy to find other cord types.
Hornblower
Deane Johnson I may be missing something here in my understanding, but is not a wireless throttle available for your system? If so, it'll probably cost a couple of bucks (as they say), but it sure solves the problem.
I may be missing something here in my understanding, but is not a wireless throttle available for your system? If so, it'll probably cost a couple of bucks (as they say), but it sure solves the problem.
The throttle I have came recommended. (http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/273759.aspx) posts 2 and 3
Deane Johnson I may be missing something here in my understanding, but is not a wireless throttle available for your system? If so, it'll probably cost a couple of bucks (as they say), but it sure solves the problem. I have an MRC with both a wired and wireless handsender and I use the wireless 99.9% of the time. As I said, I may be spacing something here.
I have an MRC with both a wired and wireless handsender and I use the wireless 99.9% of the time.
As I said, I may be spacing something here.
I had the same thought. I have a Lenz DCC system. Lenz does not have a wireless throttle, but CVP makes a system that is designed to interface with Lenz. I bought the wireless base station and two throttles and I'm very happy with them.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
KISS method: cable connects on one end of the layout. In the middle of the layout, it is attach to the layout with a large, lightly sprung spring. As you walk away from the middle, the spring extends to pay out cable, as you walk back to the middle, the spring pulls the excess cable in.
Or something like this, they seem to have multiple sizes, from the little ones used for ID badges, which probably aren't strong enough, to larger varieties:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Steel-cord-extension-spring-loaded-retractable_60816808598.html
Attach the base to the layout, the extension part attaches to the cable to keep it snugged up.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Overmodbut you could use a couple of these side-by-side, fixed together and their ends joined, with a length of coiled cord available at the end if desired --
I have given up on the coiled or retractable cord idea. I have decided I can live with a floor-dangler.
Kevin: it's a kludge, but you could use a couple of these side-by-side, fixed together and their ends joined, with a length of coiled cord available at the end if desired -- you might consider a Hubbell locking plug for 4 conductors there.
I would at least think about making a track for the reels, perhaps overhead or pocket door hardware. This could be tugged to different locations, or even given servo or cable operated location to keep it more conveniently located for the drop (or to position a 'pendant' throttle more conveniently)
I looked into doing exactly this, and gave up.
My idea was to use a 25 foot shop drop light.
When I opened up the shop light, there were only three conductors (as expected), but no easy way to add a fourth. The rotating contact plate assembly in the lamp was well made, and my plan to cut a groove into one of the contact disks to get a fourth conductor was nor possible.
I looked for a coiled microphone cable from a CB radio (4 conductor), but could not find one with heavy enough wire. I figured 18 gauge was the minimum.
Let me know if anything works out for you, good luck.
Overmod I'd also think about using coiled cord, like CB microphone cord or telephone handset style, if you can afford it, which will preclude some of the dangling on the floor if you just have pullout straight wire.
I'd also think about using coiled cord, like CB microphone cord or telephone handset style, if you can afford it, which will preclude some of the dangling on the floor if you just have pullout straight wire.
Unfortunately the wire is one piece for the entire length and I don't want to cut it.
I will have to do some scrounging on the vacuum option. As we have a vacuum repair store in town, I might go that route if nothing else comes up.
I'd consider a spring-loaded reel mounted transversely under the fascia -- see if you can find an old Electrolux tank vacuum and adapt the cord reel at the end, which allows pull out with selective length locking, then yank and let go for rewind or locking at intermediate length.
I'd want easy payout of the cord, but isokinetically-braked rewind. I'd also think about using coiled cord, like CB microphone cord or telephone handset style, if you can afford it, which will preclude some of the dangling on the floor if you just have pullout straight wire.
I'm in need of some help yet again from my Forum friends. I have a wired throttle for my small (approx 11'6 x 12' reverse G) layout. I got the cable long enough so that I can walk around with the train on the inside of the G. I also built three boxes to put the throttle in at points on the layout. Does anybody make any sort of reel that I can put the cable in so that I'm not accidentally tripping over it? I.e. it can go to full length if needed but will also retract slowly as not to bounce the throttle all over. Only about 6 in or so of the cable needs to be out when retracted as the main "house" for the throttle is right above the power supply on the control panel. The overall length of the cable is about 8 ft or so. As usual, any assistance that can be provided would be most welcomed.