Saran wrap - now there is a great idea. The other night I was fiddlign with e Peco over center spring and I dropped it, not once, but twice. The second time I was SURE it landed on the dog sleeping at my feet - blackened spring on a black dog. But it didn't, it was on my chair mat both times, and I actually found it - and not by it impaling my foot. That was a small miracle. A piece of saran wrap on my desk, and it never would have bounced. Never heard that idea before, but I like it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinkerCutting off the excess throwbar wire with a diagonal cutter can send the cut end flying like a shot, unless you hold on to it while cutting.
I was late to the idea of using a sheet of Saran Wrap when removing and fitting watch parts. I really can't remember why it took me so long to see the advantages, but the first time a sudden twitch dislodges something at speed and it stays there, you pay for the whole idea.
SeeYou190 peahrens For the Crescent PS5429C, I can tell you that mine have blue handles and the slightly longer handle is 8-3/8" long. From looking at ads, I think they may be the nominal 9" ones, as most (not all) of the 9" ads have blue handles. Paul: Thank you for the tool tip. I just ordered a pair. Do you cut up to 0.032" wire with these? That is the largest size I use. -Kevin
peahrens For the Crescent PS5429C, I can tell you that mine have blue handles and the slightly longer handle is 8-3/8" long. From looking at ads, I think they may be the nominal 9" ones, as most (not all) of the 9" ads have blue handles.
Paul: Thank you for the tool tip. I just ordered a pair.
Do you cut up to 0.032" wire with these? That is the largest size I use.
-Kevin
Kevin, yes the pliers cut the 0.032" wire fine, with a bit of force applied. I upgraded to that size on the Tortoises, which adds significantly to the tension applied. That is nice in terms of getting and keeping the points firmly seated against the stock rail, preventing picking of the points as well as maintaining electrical connection. (I did not add jumper wires to those, and the pivot on the point / closure rails is more a mechanical link than a reliable electical one on my Walthers-Shinohara turnouts.)
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
peahrensFor the Crescent PS5429C, I can tell you that mine have blue handles and the slightly longer handle is 8-3/8" long. From looking at ads, I think they may be the nominal 9" ones, as most (not all) of the 9" ads have blue handles.
Living the dream.
Safety glasses are almost a must - even with prescription lenses, since while the lense may be impervious to impacts, since most are polycarbonate these days, they do nothing to protect from flying bits in from the sides and top. Being down to one good eye (not through an injury caused by lack of safety gear though), I've become a lot more paranoid lately.
Cutting off the excess throwbar wire with a diagonal cutter can send the cut end flying like a shot, unless you hold on to it while cutting. Cutting off the excess with a cutoff wheel can send the cut off end flying like a HOT shot, unless it's a really long excess, you can't really hold it with your fingers. Holding it with a pair of pliers isn't a bad idea. On my last layout, after I placed a servo, before I adjusted it and cut off the excess, I put flags of blue painter's tape on the end - it's hard to see that thin wire sticking up and poking your hand or face on it would be bad.
Note that the pictured item has compound 'toggle' action and hardened triangle faces, probably ground to match, like a mini pair of bolt cutters.
Occasionally a tool shows up on eBay that has the cutting edges made of Stellite, which makes working with even larger gages of hardened wire relatively easy.
Steffen1601 What size did you buy?
What size did you buy?
For the Crescent PS5429C, I can tell you that mine have blue handles and the slightly longer handle is 8-3/8" long. From looking at ads, I think they may be the nominal 9" ones, as most (not all) of the 9" ads have blue handles. And most (not all) of the 8" ads have red handles. It takes a good bit of force to cut the music wire, so I would suggest the larger ones if you don't mind the extra $6.
York1Thanks! I might look for those. They have to be more accurate than trying to use tin snips
This is what I've had good luck with:
https://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/3/17
Just another option.
Good Luck, Ed
If you're looking at the Walthers system, look at the products from Tam Valley. Very nearly just as much plug and play - the machines (servos - which is what Walthers uses as well) and the fascia controls/indicators all connect via simple 3 pin plugs. And it's a heck of a lot cheaper than Walther's system.
peahrensI bought these Crescent PS5429C just for that. They will cut the piano wire without ruining the cutting edge. Wear eye protection in case a wire piece flies at you.
Thanks! I might look for those. They have to be more accurate than trying to use tin snips.
York1 John
York1I learned a lesson -- don't cut the piano wire with regular wire cutters. Use tin snips or something like that. The piano wire is very hard.
I bought these Crescent PS5429C just for that. They will cut the piano wire without ruining the cutting edge. Wear eye protection in case a wire piece flies at you.
https://www.amazon.com/Apex-Tool-Group-PS5429C-Diagonal/dp/B000TDDP6E/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ps5429c&qid=1596068911&sr=8-1
I use Walthers switch machines, and I also use foam. I replaced the wire with piano wire I bought at Hobby Lobby. It was not difficult at all.
I learned a lesson -- don't cut the piano wire with regular wire cutters. Use tin snips or something like that. The piano wire is very hard.
The Tortoise instructions are below. I only had 5/8" plywood plus 1/4" cork roadbed so could use the standard wire. They advise to substitute a longer (0.025") spring wire as needed.
http://circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-6000ins.pdf
They recommend a 1/4" hole for the wire. Even with my thinner (than yours) thickness, I found a larger hole helps prevent the wire from hitting the side of the hole, if everything is not sufficiently aligned vertically, which prevents a full throw to that side. I imagine someone will come along with advice on something more exact for your setup.
Regarding the throw wire, the 0.025" Tortoise wire is sufficient if the whole setup is perfect. However, any imperfections (friction somewhere, etc.) can easily prevent a strong tension on one side or the other of the throw. The solution is music wire of 0.032" or 0.039". Probably wise to go to the larger gage for your longer thickness. It just requires enlarging the hole for the wire in the Tortoise throwbar, very simple to do.
I am very happy with my Tortoise choice. I use the auxiliary contacts (two sets) for both frog powering and for layout switch position indicators. I am not familiar with the Walthers machines (or others).
EDIT: I'm adding a search for earlier threads that may shed some light:
https://www.bing.com/search?q=site%3A+cs.trains.com+install+tortoise+foam&cvid=6742b68c003f40e2aff411d83c0d0f34&FORM=ANNTA1&PC=U531
Hi All,
After 30+ years, I want to build a new model railroad again. I am planning to use H0 scale. I have a question about the switch machines (Walthers or Tortoise). My base board will be 1/2 inch plywood and I will be adding 1 inch foam on top. My question is: Are the actuator wires on those switch machines long enough to go through the 1.5 inches thick base? If not, what would I use to replace the actuator wires with?