I'm trying to decide on the best width for a couple of movable modules/dominos in HO. Right now they will be in one side of the garage but I'd eventually like them to go in the attic which would mean taking them up a pull down stair. (I know, that access will be a problem but I plan to be a primarily solo operator.)
2' wide is easier to transport and build but it would seem that 30" would make it a lot easier for any yard/indutrial trackage and making a turn in the likely L configuration. Also, 6' will be better for trackage but 4' easier to move.
Any thoughts will be appreciated.
I have done something similar in N scale. I built a U configuration in my basement, and then moved it to a second floor area with a tight set of stairs.
I followed the domino design - my understanding is that dominoes can be any size, while modules are standardized.
I did mostly 16" wide x 48" long units. I did join 2 of these side by side to create a 32 x 48 unit, and then added a 16 x 32 at one end for the loop. IN HO, you may want to go 18" or 20" wide. I also did a 24 x 56 unit for my yard area (it originally was 24x48, but I needed 8" more to do what I wanted. I tried not to have any turnouts crossing gaps between dominoes.
I made legs for each unit, which does create a jungle under the layout. I also find that the legs are a little fragile. If I were to do this again, I would do a 6" side, rather than 4", which would allow better connection between leg units and the top, also better for hiding the underside wiring. I would also plan to have more shared legs.
Hope this helps.
6' gives you more wiggle room for placing turnouts that does 4' I made 2 modules, 2x7 and 2x5. The 7 footer is too big to fit in most SUV's. The construction is 2" foam on a grid made of 1/2 cabinet plywood.
30" wide would be a little unweidy if you were moving it yourself, plus foam comes 24" wide. At a later date when you are settled someplace you can add to make it wider.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Llenroc fan(I know, that access will be a problem but I plan to be a primarily solo operator.) 2' wide is easier to transport
2' wide is easier to transport
unless the modules need to be interchangable, why a standard width? why not ~1ft if that all that's needed?
the width of Tony Koester's multi-deck layout various with the trackage?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Speaking from personal experence; I suggest 2X4. I have had a 16in X 7ft. I did move it but was not easy for one person,with steps/stairs.
But I did not remove the legs. By designing the units to allow removable legs will make a huge difference .
And as gregc stated, if you need a different size,why not?
2' x 4' is what I used last time I did it.
For HO?
When I decided on the domino system for my HO layout I was driving a sedan and not a hatchback or station wagon. Simultaneous with the Model Railroader articles by David Barrow that introduced me to the concept, I was wandering through a big box home/builders supply store and discovered "handi-panels" - precut plywood in 2' x 4' sizes in various thicknesses (I elected 1/2"). Also homasote in the same 2' x 4' size. That made up my mind for me (as for the 1x4 supporting lumber, I discovered the back seat of my Toyota folded down so I could haul long pieces of wood). The handi panels were high quality plywood, as I learned when I once bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood and asked the lumber yard to rip it into 2' x 4' panels for me. Handi panels are stored flat; that plywood had some built in warpage that took a lot of drywall screws to tame.
As for curves, where my 2' x 4' dominos meet to form an "L" I have 42" and 40" radius curves (to preserve the 2" track spacing on the tangents). I have not explored to see if larger radius would work too but 42" is pretty good in scales up thru S. A bit tight for O but generous for HO.
Some of my dominos are freestanding but others are against a wall. 24 inches is good and practical even if you can only work on one side of the benchwork. 30 inches would be a stretch even for me.
One more thing, if like Barrow (and me) you design a domino or modular/ segmental layout on paper using cardstock "dominos" of the scale size (one of the key features of the system), it is a bit easier to work with entire feet rather than half a foot or inches. my "scale" was 1" = 1 ft.
Dave Nelson
It might help you decide if you build a mock-up of a module and try to take it up those stairs. I had such attic stairs in my previous house and even carrying sheets of plywood up to make attic flooring was very awkward.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Llenroc fan I'm trying to decide on the best width for a couple of movable modules/dominos in HO. Right now they will be in one side of the garage but I'd eventually like them to go in the attic which would mean taking them up a pull down stair. (I know, that access will be a problem but I plan to be a primarily solo operator.) 2' wide is easier to transport and build but it would seem that 30" would make it a lot easier for any yard/indutrial trackage and making a turn in the likely L configuration. Also, 6' will be better for trackage but 4' easier to move.
Belonging to an HOn3 modular group, we found the following for ease of setup/take down:
- modules 40" or less in length allowed one person to grab both ends and easily carry the module. Initially, 8', 6', and 4' modules were the norm, but all took 2 people to handle. 36" long modules have become our preferred length.
- 24" wide modules are "standard" for no particular reason. However, modules have been anywere from 36" to 12". Scenery is a lot easier for a single track module if its only 12" wide. Basically, we have found, don't go wider than your scene or track dictates. Joe Fugate preaches the same. For a non-standard width, we require a tasteful matchup to standard modules. This can be a short module (with no legs) that tapers from one width to the other or a nicely finished end plate that makes scenic sense.
- the legs are detached from the modules, and build up into a self-supporting assembly. The module has leg pockets. On setup, you pick up the module and set it down on the legs, with the legs being a loose fit in the pockets. Our legs are adjusted for length near the top - you simply reach under the module and rotate the legs to adjust for a perfect match to an adjoining module. Floors are never truly flat or level (nor are walls perfectly vertical).
- A normal interior door way is 30" wide by 80" high, so less than 80" allows standing on end to move through doorway, and will make it likely you can get around any hall corner. If you use a dolly of some kind, 72" or less length gives you room to stand the module on the dolly.
- if there is a module set (normally 2-4 modules that always connect in the same way), and especially if there is more than 1 track crossing the boundary, the modules are aligned with bolts and T-nuts (or similar) through the face plates. If there is only a single track crossing the boundary at the center, C-clamps are adequate and faster.
We use Gap Masters, and run the rails to the edge of the face plate. Free-mo uses fitter rails, which allows less than perfect alignment. Each has its pros and cons.
Anderson plugs have become the defacto standard for connecting wiring between modules for most modular groups.
At home, I have a 44" x 66" HO/HOn3 test oval (18" minimum radius) with programming tracks, and then some HO and HOn3 modules. Dear Wife's rule is that before anything comes out of the unfinished storage room in the basement, it must be visually presentable to guests (her guests). Which means at least a complete covering of scenery, and no tools or other stuff besides trains and scenery. So I build in the storage room, and when complete enough can set up in the basement finished area.
just my experiences
Fred W
Picture Gorge & Western/Port Orford & Elk River where it's always 1900
When I was building my layout, I kept the sections on the main oval two feet wide to make room for the two four-track yards as well as for when I put in scenery on both sides of the tracks. For the staging yards, I made the peninsulas 18 inches wide. While I'm going to be doing scenery on them, the primary focus on them is the staging yards. For the four corners of the main layout, I was aiming for the NMRA dimensions used by the club I used to belong to, which were basically 4-foot squares with the corners inside and outside of the curved track removed. The corners actually came out to 46-inch squares. The straight sections of the layout are 5-feet long, 4 1/2-feet long, or 4-feet long, depending on the location and the trackwork in that particular area.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
MisterBeasleyIt might help you decide if you build a mock-up of a module and try to take it up those stairs.
I agree with this. In a previous house, I tried moving things up and down on a pull-down stair into an attic, and it was at best a headache.
Cut a sheet of wood to size and try moving it to the attic before you do too much planning and work.
York1 John
I had been leaning toward 30" X 6' modules but after a lot of the comments I think I'll stay with 2' X 4' for ease of movement. I had planned to use bolts to join them together and have bought adjustable feet for the bottom of the legs.
My biggest problem on the "test module" I built was keeping it square. It was when I finished the box but after attaching the legs (with bolts) it was pulled out of square. I'm thinking of cutting short 45 degree braces for the corners to aleviate that or simply nailing plywood to the top before attaching the legs.
I had planned to only use foam board (2") and skip the plywood to minimize weight but ensuring it holds square and having something firm underneath if I ever decide to use switch motors for the turnouts might change the plan.
Please continue with suggestions and experiences. Input from those who have already done it is invaluable.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Llenroc fanMy biggest problem on the "test module" I built was keeping it square. It was when I finished the box but after attaching the legs (with bolts) it was pulled out of square. I'm thinking of cutting short 45 degree braces for the corners to aleviate that or simply nailing plywood to the top before attaching the legs.
either one would work; But, attaching legs shouldn't pull it out of square. You must have something else going on.
Without seeing it, I would not even guess. Perhaps a closer look at joints and a recheck of dieminsions might show a problem.
I don't use plywood under the foam,and have no issues.
Hello All,
Llenroc fanI had planned to only use foam board (2") and skip the plywood to minimize weight but ensuring it holds square and having something firm underneath if I ever decide to use switch motors for the turnouts might change the plan.
You might need more support in each module than 2-inch foam board can provide.
Luan plywood will provide the support needed for the 2-inch foam base without being too heavy.
The next step up in thickness, and weight, would be 1/4-inch ply.
Considering your particular needs I would suggest the Luan Plywood with the 2-inch foam board on top.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
This is what I did, except I had some luan plywood and found more at Home Depot in the scrap bucket, for free and put it under the foam if I decided later to install tortoises.Everyone said the joists and the 2" foam was strong enough, but the 1/8' luan adds ridgidity without a lot of weight. The article doesn't mention it, but I also used glue blocks adjacent to the joints.
Llenroc, there is a method for having switch machines on two-inch foam: