I bought the Ribbonrail tools for 30 inch radius. I use sectional track for 24 inch radius.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
For my last layout, I got some of the Robbonrail tools, because going around the walls like it did, there were palces I couldn't do the usual sight down the track to make sure it was straight. Which was good in hindsight, since now I will only be looking with 1 1/2 eyes, so making anything straight by eye is probably not going to happen for me any more. I would lay a piece (usually 2 at a time) of track in the caulk, line it up as best as I could fromt he side, then run the straight Ribbonrail tool down the centerto knock it all in line. You're on your own for curves though, the curved Ribbonrail tools are of course a fixed radius so if you have easements, you can't just slide the tool along to force the curve. There are always Fast Tracks Sweep Sticks, I suppose.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
DoughlessMaybe use some small diameter square tubing as a straight edge.
I can get Micro Engineering track down straight using a four-foot level for longer stratches, and various other items like a foot long metal ruler for smaller sections. Anything that's straight and rigid should work for any brand.
Rob Spangler
Doughless richhotrain Doughless I've reused my Atlas flex from previous layouts and its time to discard it. Switched over to Peco Code 83 and I like the way it holds its bend. It suits the way I lay track. Layout will be all Peco turnouts and Peco flex. Since I am using Peco turnouts on my new layout, I do like the idea of using Peco flex track. My problem with Peco flex track though is that I cannot lay it perfectly straight no matter how hard I try. Rich I haven't really tried long straight sections yet. Maybe use some small diameter square tubing as a straight edge.
richhotrain Doughless I've reused my Atlas flex from previous layouts and its time to discard it. Switched over to Peco Code 83 and I like the way it holds its bend. It suits the way I lay track. Layout will be all Peco turnouts and Peco flex. Since I am using Peco turnouts on my new layout, I do like the idea of using Peco flex track. My problem with Peco flex track though is that I cannot lay it perfectly straight no matter how hard I try. Rich
Doughless I've reused my Atlas flex from previous layouts and its time to discard it. Switched over to Peco Code 83 and I like the way it holds its bend. It suits the way I lay track. Layout will be all Peco turnouts and Peco flex.
I've reused my Atlas flex from previous layouts and its time to discard it. Switched over to Peco Code 83 and I like the way it holds its bend. It suits the way I lay track. Layout will be all Peco turnouts and Peco flex.
Since I am using Peco turnouts on my new layout, I do like the idea of using Peco flex track. My problem with Peco flex track though is that I cannot lay it perfectly straight no matter how hard I try.
Rich
I haven't really tried long straight sections yet. Maybe use some small diameter square tubing as a straight edge.
Alton Junction
- Douglas
MisterBeasleyPersonally, I would rather have track made in this country, even if it costs a bit more. How do the rest of you plan to deal with this?
We already have good solutions for this - both Micro Engineering and Central Valley kits are made in the USA (the CVT tie system works great with ME rail).
MisterBeasley I'm a guy who goes mostly with Atlas flextrack. But, are we approaching another great track shortage, since much of our track is made in China?
I'm a guy who goes mostly with Atlas flextrack. But, are we approaching another great track shortage, since much of our track is made in China?
Only time will tell, but with Kadee shut down for who knows how long, I stocked up on a couple of bulk packs because I have quite a few freight cars needing upgraded from the crappy plastic clones.
Personally, I would rather have track made in this country, even if it costs a bit more. How do the rest of you plan to deal with this?
How do the rest of you plan to deal with this?
I've saved all my track from the last layout and I've ordered some additional track so hopefully have enough to complete my layout which is under construction.
Since China production is reportedly back up and running, I'm not too worried about another great track shortage.
Anyway, with Peco and ME not made in China, it shouldn't be a problem.
richhotrain Bring back production to the good old USA. I was watching a clip on CNN yesterday where Mark Cuban was being interviewed about this very topic. His prediction of a post-pandemic America would be one that includes the greater use of robotics to replace cheap Chinese labor, such that in the long run production here in the USA can be competitive with cheap foreign labor. Rich
Bring back production to the good old USA.
I was watching a clip on CNN yesterday where Mark Cuban was being interviewed about this very topic. His prediction of a post-pandemic America would be one that includes the greater use of robotics to replace cheap Chinese labor, such that in the long run production here in the USA can be competitive with cheap foreign labor.
I expect there will be more and more manufacture moved out of China in the future, some to other countries with cheaper labor and some possibly to the US.
But with model trains, that process probably won't happen quickly; China has the infrastructure and skilled lower cost labor for painting and assembly of detailed models. It's wishful thinking many have been voicing for the past ten years but probably unrealistic still.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
MisterBeasley I'm a guy who goes mostly with Atlas flextrack. But, are we approaching another great track shortage, since much of our track is made in China? I mostly got away in the last one, because somebody happened to return a lot of Atlas flex track to my LHS just when I needed it. My big problem was getting joiners. Personally, I would rather have track made in this country, even if it costs a bit more. How do the rest of you plan to deal with this?
I mostly got away in the last one, because somebody happened to return a lot of Atlas flex track to my LHS just when I needed it. My big problem was getting joiners.
Personally, I would rather have track made in this country, even if it costs a bit more.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
HO-VeloYou might be a ballast geek if.... after painstaking grooming you carefully run a micro-brush along the outside and inside of the rail and over the tie tops, then double check for errant granules before wetting with a mister and applying the glue with a syringe.
One trick I've employed is to tap the railhead ever-so-lightly with a dowel or perhaps a paint brush handle to knock errant ballast off the rail just prior to the fine misting. Those disposable foam brushes have a plain wood handle that makes a good "tapper".
Not 100% effective but it does help.
Cheers, Ed
On my last two ISLs I used Peco medium switches and ME flex track. I like the stiffness of this track better then Atlas flex..
I have no issues bending it because I got my track laying skills from laying stiff brass track with fiber ties.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
SeeYou190pieces of ballast glued to the side of the rail.
You might be a ballast geek if.... after painstaking grooming you carefully run a micro-brush along the outside and inside of the rail and over the tie tops, then double check for errant granules before wetting with a mister and applying the glue with a syringe.
Regards, Peter
SeeYou190No matter what I do, I seem to always be picking pieces of ballast off the rail for a few days afterward.
DSC03135 by wp8thsub, on Flickr
DSC03135
To avoid this issue, I usually work in a small area. Once the ballast glue starts to soak in and start drying, I use a bamboo skewer or the tip of a finger to remove stray ballast from the rails. If anything stays behind that can't easily be eliminated, including glue residue, I use the track weathering paint and paint over it with a small brush after the glue dries completely.
Almost ALL of my layout is Atlas track, with the exception of a Shinohara/Walthers double crossover and PECO curved turnouts. I have a few PECO normal turnouts. Everything is code 83 and as has been mentioned already, Atlas flex track is easier to work with than ME. I cut, shape and connect the Atlas track and once it is shaped, I put a small drop of CA at various spots on the "spikes". I then remove the track and paint it. The advantage of doing it this way is that it's not left with shiny spots where the spikes covered the rail base. I paint my track with Krylon's camouflage paint (tan). Once I clean the rail tops, it looks pretty good. Once it's ballasted, I paint a thin line of thinned grimy black down the centers of the track.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
SeeYou190 It amazes me in pictures posted by Wayne, Peter, Garry, and Ed that I never see pieces of ballast glued to the side of the rail. No matter what I do, I seem to always be picking pieces of ballast off the rail for a few days afterward.
It amazes me in pictures posted by Wayne, Peter, Garry, and Ed that I never see pieces of ballast glued to the side of the rail.
No matter what I do, I seem to always be picking pieces of ballast off the rail for a few days afterward.
HO-VeloIn my book the appearance of M.E. flex track is worth the extra effort it takes to form it.
This photo is from my first layout. I decided to go with the ME flex because I liked the way it looked compared to the Atlas flex. Working with one piece to understand what it takes to create smooth flowing curves gave me the results in the photo.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
I have to say, my decision on the brand of flex track has always been based upon cost and ease of installation. Maybe I just have poor eyesight, but once my track is installed and ballasted, I cannot really discern any differences in rail profile, tie plate and spike detail.
My layout sits up 36" off the floor and I am 6'. I cannot imagine paying extra money for such details that simply cannot be seen. I simply settle for Atlas flex track which suits me just fine.
I standardized on Peco, mainly because it genuinely looks good, and it was the easiest to source here in Australia.
Modelling HO Scale with a focus on the West and Midwest USA
I love Micro Engineering flex track. The non weathered stuff is easy to curve and I love the tie plate and spike detail.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
I'm sorry, what track. That nicely weathered hopper stole may attention.
In my book the appearance of M.E. flex track is worth the extra effort it takes to form it. Ribbon-rail metal gauges are helpful when forming and laying. A plus about holding it's shape is that it can be spray painted off the layout with few rail holidays.
Thanks guys. You are the best.
Stay well
Ed
I ended up with some MicroEngineering track from Carl so I'll be making use of it along with the Peco and the track I saved from the last layout.
eds-trainsI am thinking maybe Peco or Micro Engineering flex track this time.
I don't use Peco, but have plenty of Micro Engineering. As you've already heard, it's more challenging to use than most other brands.
DSC02055 by wp8thsub, on Flickr
DSC02055
The fine appearance may be worth enduring the learning curve depending on your priorities. The back two tracks above are Micro Engineering, both code 55 and code 83. The closest track is Shinohara (formerly sold under the Walthers brand), which is very similar to ME in workability, but has a somewhat different tie spacing and rail profile.
Any time you mix brands, there's the potential for mismatch at the joints because of differences in rail cross section and tie thickness. If you don't already have a stock of Peco turnouts, you may want to consider using ME turnouts for your new construction for easier installation alongside ME flextrack.
ME flex track does look very good, but it's the difficulty in getting it to the right shape the I don't care for; ya gotta wrestle with it quite a bit.
Atlas forms so easily and smoothly. If you use Atlas track nails or ME spikes, that will hold it in place at that nice smooth natural curve. Same with easements.
But as seen in the profiles, the Peco rail looks pretty close to the ME rail, but easier to form.
I use (and love) ME track. While more expensive than Atlas, I like that it holds the proper shape when curved. The trick is removing ties which create an unsightly "V" shape. They also connect seemlessly with my Atlas code 83 turnouts.