Trace the track outline with paper laid over the top of the rails with a pencil.
Lay the paper flat on the railheads and mark the paper and the benchwork so you can go back and align it later. Then rub the paper covering the railheads with the side of the pencil lead and you will get a clear copy of the exact curve. I have used this trick many times for curved bridges and other areas where the exact rail posistion was important.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
I would shape the track and connect the ends. Then, CA some of the places where the molded spikes meet the rail. This will hold the track in its shape. You can then remove the track, paint it and weather it if you want.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
No, I have the track bent and pined. Only the bridge area is critical so would like to make the flex in this area hold its shape, just the bridge area. If everything else was done and I didn't have to remove the track, this would not be an issue but the track is not even painted yet or the bridge installed.
I think I understand what you are trying to do, but perhaps not.
Marking the center line seems like the easiest way which is still workable.
One idea would be to make a tracing on a large sheet of paper when the track is placed where you want it. Tape the paper so it does not shift around and then trace the rails using a pencil rubbing. (Or push the paper into the rail so it takes an impression). Then use that as the pattern template for laying the track. Another thought would be - is it possible to apply duct tape to the curved rail and then pull it away so it holds the curve?
The nice thing about flex track is that in a sense it creates its own easement curves if left to its own devices. If you have a general sense of where the track begins and ends, wouldn't it basically go where you want it to go anyway when the project is being finalized?
Dave Nelson
I am using Shinohara code 70.
My suggestion:
With the 'proven' curve in place, push about 30 track nails against the sides of about 15 ties (a pair of nails against the same ties to allow precise alignment) about 6-10 ties apart...if you follow.
When it comes time to re-lay the tracks, just slip them between the track nail pairs and you should be good. I would immediately place track nails into some of the center holes to keep the curves in place so that I can pull the outer nails used for guides and then run trains through the curve(s) to ensure they stay coupled and railed.
Are you using regular Atlas Super-Flex on a bridge.
Micro-Engineering's bridge flex will hold a curve, and has the correct(ish) bridge ties.
If you want regular tie spacing, you could try the semi-rigid track from Precision Scale or Shinohara.
Aside from that, I doubt that a small droplet of CA will cause any problems, just really tedious.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I have a very complicated curve to do when the track goes over a wooden bridge. I have it pined in place and did the test runs but now I have to take it up, fix all the stuff like bridge suports in place and sub scenery. The track curve is combined with multiple radius and straights. So thev question is, since this is flex track, could I ACC the the ties to the rail so it won't move. This is so I can take it up and do the sup senery and some reangled cork and paint the track ect.