Sculptamold Cure Time

[jpdriver]

Started a new layout last fall. I am starting to add the scenery base to the first few feet and have played with numerous materials and techniques trying to find what works for me. Have been taking my time as I know the layout will eventually expand around an entire room, so getting the first few feet right is critical before moving on.

I started working with sculptamold a few nights ago to hand carve granite rock faces for modeling in the Rocky Mountains. I have been thoroughly impressed with the ease of mixing, lack of mess, and the time I am able to work with it before it gets firm. I have noted that the first nights work is still a bit soft if I use the carving tool. The back of the bag says it takes several days to cure out. I know that humidity and temp of the room plays into the cure time. Looking for some feedback on what other's experiences have been?

On a secondary note, has anyone used Scenic Landscapes pigments to wash sculptamold, and if so, is the manufacturer recommended water to pigment ratio sufficient, or do adjustments need to be made due to the material?

Joe

[snjroy]

Temperature, humidity and thickness of the layer, I would add. The difference can be counted in days, in my experience. In the case of plaster, the age of the product can also make a difference. Not sure about Sculptamold.

Simon

[peahrens]

I used Sculptamold to cover my hillsides and to create a non-flat base on flat surfaces where I wanted some minor undulations.  It does take over a day to dry.  I also considered making "ground goop" from raw materinals (which I procured) but tried the Sulptamold and decided that was fine for me, very easy.

I considered tinting it but decided to just mix as is, then apply a coat of latex paint custom mixed to a color I liked (Home Depot sample size).  I understand tinting is advantageous in the case of a later nick not showing up white.  As I've been detailing my base with ground foams and bushes, etc., that has reinforced that the paint method is easy, fast and sufficient for me, as most every spot has multiple layers.  

I really do like the Sculptamold product.  I have applied it over plaster cloth and painted plywood with good results. 

[RR_Mel]

Scuptamold is my go to for ground scenery base, Hydrocal for rocks.

 

For me the amount of water used for making the mud makes a big difference as well as the base where is going.  When I use it on top of plastic or foam it takes forever to dry, sometimes four days.  On top of open grid it dries fairly fast, one day.

 

I’m working on my picture taking diorama using a foam base and it’s taking two days where it is about an inch thick.  The ⅛ to ¼ inch dries pretty good over night.

 

I use Woodland Scenics Earth Undercoat Stain to darken it so that dings don’t show as bad later on.

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[York1]

jpdriver

I know that humidity and temp of the room plays into the cure time. Looking for some feedback on what other's experiences have been?

 

I use Sculptamold and really like it.

If I use it over foam, it can take several days, especially if it's thicker than ¼ inch.

I was impatient on one of my projects, and I tried using a hairdryer to speed up the dry time.  It didn't do much.

It's a great product.

[BigDaddy]

I've not used it but these are the Official recommendations

"The Leopard Spot technique is our favorite method for coloring rocks. It is a simple technique that yields realistic results. Start with the suggested dilution ratios. If darker colors are desired, add additional pigment to washes.

 

"-Dilute 2 different secondary colors, 1-part pigment to 16-parts water. Color suggestions: Yellow Ocher and Burnt Umber.

 

"-Dilute a third pigment for a dominate color, 1-part pigment to 32-parts water. Color suggestion: Black.

 

"Start with the lightest secondary rock color. Using a foam brush, dab first color randomly over 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Dab the next secondary color randomly over a different 1/3 of rock. Rinse brush. Leave approximately 1/3 of the rock white. 

 

"Brush and dab the dominate Black Wash over the entire rock face. The Black Wash pulls the colors together. When dry, seal rock colors with Scenic Cement (S191) and let dry. Then, brush on a less diluted Black Wash (1:16) to accentuate rock detail. Spray again with Scenic Cement to seal."

 

Too light is easier to fix than too dark.  I use diluted craft paints.   I also add some craft paint to the intial mix of sculptamold at the very beginning. I scultpamold for rock face casting and I made a test piece to try different paint mixes before I tried it on the layout.

 

Days to dry is SOP in my basement.

 

[jpdriver]

RR_Mel and York1,

Your explanation really helps. I am going over large expanses of foam right now. Did go over some wood and plaster cloth last night, so maybe I will be able to do a comparison this evening when I disappear to the train room.

Thank you.

 

 

[SeeYou190]

Up to about 1/2" thick Sculptamold will fully dry/cure in 2-3 days.

If you go to 1 inch thick, it can take about a week.

I went to 2-3 inches thick when I built the mountain corner for this piece of wargaming terrain, and it took 8 weeks to longer be squishy. It might still not be fully cured the whole way through.

-Kevin

[rws1225]

Used both sculptamold and ground goop.  Lately I have used the earth colored latex paint used in ground goop to mix the Sculptamold in addition to a small amount of water, saves painting the finished terrain. Drying time is not affected but still can be a couple of days for a 1/4 inch layer.

[cowman]

jpdriver

I know the layout will eventually expand around an entire room, so getting the first few feet right is critical before moving on.

Getting the scenery right is not nearly as critical as getting your trackwork right.  Make sure everything work is perfect befor going too far with the scenery.   Much easier to fix the track before scenery is very far along. Scenery can easily be changed and often is when someone decides to make changes in their layout.  

I used Sculptamold in a crumpled tinfoil mold to make a 2' long 6" high curved rock face in a cut.  Worked great.

Have fun,

Richard

[SeeYou190]

cowman

Getting the scenery right is not nearly as critical as getting your trackwork right.

100% agree. Scenery is the most forgiving area to make mistakes in. Worst case, it is easy to break it up and remove it for replacement.

Trackwork MUST be perfect.

-Kevin

[RR_Mel]

I’ve got almost 48 hrs into a ¼” thick pour of Sculptamold 4” by 3” and it’s far from dry.  I say pour, it was like a thick and almost lumpy paste so not even close to a wet mix.

 

Maybe another 48 hrs for dry.  It will be a short section of paved Asphalt road on my diorama.

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[John Busby]

cowman

 

 

jpdriver

I know the layout will eventually expand around an entire room, so getting the first few feet right is critical before moving on.

 

 

Getting the scenery right is not nearly as critical as getting your trackwork right.  Make sure everything work is perfect befor going too far with the scenery.   Much easier to fix the track before scenery is very far along. Scenery can easily be changed and often is when someone decides to make changes in their layout.  

I used Sculptamold in a crumpled tinfoil mold to make a 2' long 6" high curved rock face in a cut.  Worked great.

Have fun,

Richard

 

I have to agree with Richard's coments no problem destoying an entire mountain range if needs must.

Its a bit more problomatic if track work wasn't sorted and right before scenery started.

regards John