HO code 100 to 83 transition.

[gdelmoro]

Hi, my Walthers turntable has code 83 track and have code 100 on my layout.

How do you all transition between the two?

Do you use a Walthers 100-83 transition track on every Storage track and lead tracks?

Do you use a transition track just on the lead and install code 83 on all the storage tracks or do you just line the code 100 up with the bridge track?

[Water Level Route]

I ground off the bottom flange of the rail until it would sit at basically the same height as the turntable bridge track.  Not perfect, but a whole lot cheaper than buying a bunch of transition pieces.  The lip of the turntable was high enough to allow that to take place with Atlas flex track without having to do anything to the ties.

[BigDaddy]

I've not done it, but some solder the code 83 to the top of the rail joiner, and insert the code 100 in the joiner.  I don't know if you need to flatten the code 83 side of the joiner first.

[RR_Mel]

I gave up on transition type joiners, more problem than they are worth.

 

I make my own transitions.

 

https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2015/01/january-11-2015-code-100-track-to-code.html

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[Pruitt]

I just do what Henry mentioned. With very little practice, it's easy to do and the transition works just fine.

I concentrate on aligning the top and inner surfaces of the rail, since this is what the wheels have to run over. 

[PC101]

Like some said above. i just did this two nights ago. (edit-Woops, I did a turnout/switch not a turntable though-edit). Slide the rail joiner halfway on the c-100 track , butt the track saw up against the c-100 and saw down though the upper joiner edges but stop before you cut though the bottom of the joiner. Now squeeze the cut edges flat down to the bottom of the joiner and you now have a pad to sit the c-83 on, add flux and solder the joint. Just keep the top and inside of the rail lined up. Now is the height of your c-100 the same from the rail head to the bottom of the ties as the c-83?    

[gdelmoro]

Thanks for the replies. Mel, if I doi it the way you do it sounds like I can file the 100 track as needed to line up with the 83 on he turntable bridge. It's the rail tops that need to be even, correct?  I assume the gauge between is already correct. 

[RR_Mel]

gdelmoro

Thanks for the replies. Mel, if I doi it the way you do it sounds like I can file the 100 track as needed to line up with the 83 on he turntable bridge. It's the rail tops that need to be even, correct?  I assume the gauge between is already correct. 

 

Just make sure the rail top and inner rails line up.  I’ve done dozens using that method and never had any problems.

 

 

 

Mel

 

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[MisterBeasley]

I would do the whole turtable are in Code 83, then transition to Code 100 a short distance away.

I have used transition tracks in a couple of places.  They work fine, but they are straight sectional pieces and need a straight run to make the transition.

I'm getting rid of all the Code 100 and will go with Code 83 from now on.

[SeeYou190]

MisterBeasley

I would do the whole turtable area in Code 83, then transition to Code 100 a short distance away.

This is what I would also do. Transition to code 83 as you get near the turntable, and build the whole turntable area with code 83 trackage.

I transition the hard way, I use brass shims in the rail joiners to align the rail tops, then solder the joints.

Code 100 to 83 transition tracks are available on eBay, and will make this simple.

-Kevin

[selector]

I use ballast (or yard soil/mud in the yard) to keep things curved nicely for all kinds of transitions.  Instead of spending hours milling or sanding things so that the rails sit on them nicely, I add more ballast to the parts of the rails where the ties are suspended a bit, and make sure the grains do support the ties below them. 

When matching disparate codes of rails, I use a joiner that will fit both feet, and then kink the joiner a bit (hold one rail in place and lever the other up or down), and then use the ballast to maintain the heights so that they're even across the joint.  Works well...for me. 

Even solder will do a good job of holding a joint at an angle so that you acheive your aims.

[hon30critter]

Hey everyone!

Thanks for the various methods of joining Code 100 track to Code 83. I will have to do some of that on my new layout.

Dave

[gdelmoro]

Mel, Mr. B, i used a Dremel with grinding stone to remove some of the metal from the bottom of the 100 rail. Took about 30 seconds.

I think ill take Mel's suggestion and just buy a couple lengths of code 83 flex for the storage tracks.

thanks again. 

[riogrande5761]

I find these Atlas transition joiners work quite well:

After buying the first pack, I make my own now out of standard rail joiners.

Word!

 

[rrinker]

 How many store tracks are you putting it? Instead of trying to make all those transitions, just buy a couple of sticks of Code 83 flex to make the stall tracks, then you only need one transition for the lead in track. Don't make more work for yourself 

                              --Randy