I have never had much luck with the removal tool, but a decent pair of diagonal cutters can snap the unijoiners out at a very quick pace.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
ROBERT PETRICKThat little blue tool is a rail gauge, coupler height gauge, and a clearance envelope gauge.
It´s called a Unijoiner removal tool and is sold with a blue rerailer. It´s sole purpose is to assist in removing the Unijoiners.
Happy times!
Ulrich (aka The Tin Man)
"You´re never too old for a happy childhood!"
wjstix If the connectors are worn, you can buy a bag of them at the local hobby shop or from Walthers or other on-line dealers. There's a little blue plastic tool you can get (it comes with some Kato pieces like the wired power connectors) that you can use to pop off the old connectors. Otherwise, as mentioned above, just cleaning the rails should make everything good to go.
If the connectors are worn, you can buy a bag of them at the local hobby shop or from Walthers or other on-line dealers. There's a little blue plastic tool you can get (it comes with some Kato pieces like the wired power connectors) that you can use to pop off the old connectors. Otherwise, as mentioned above, just cleaning the rails should make everything good to go.
That little blue tool is a rail gauge, coupler height gauge, and a clearance envelope gauge. The little blue re-railer ramp (included in some sets) has rail notches for three track spacings of 33 mm (Kato bridge, viaduct, and crossover spacing).
Our Japanese friends take model railroading seriously.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
AjidicaI was thinking of putting together a small layout on a hollow core door, using my old unitrack and some new pieces to get a handle on what I want, what radius I can get away with, and other things.
If you are just interested in seeing what fits where, you can always copy the expensive items such as turnouts and use them as templates.
It´s the same title, but a different issue. The OP should edit the title to be more clear!
To the OP: as I said in the other thread, clean the track and the switches thoroughly and you should be good to go. Unitrack is pretty neat stuff and you can get rid of the plasticky look if you carefully re-ballast the track, which I did!
Moderators, this is a duplicate thread, except the other one has responses. please lock it and then we can carry on in the following thread.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/281280.aspx
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Hello!
How easy is it to test and/or fix old kato Unitrack (N-scale)? I was going through some boxes and found my old unitrack from when I was a kid, last used probably 15 years ago. I put together a small loop on a table and discovered on many of the track pieces the locomotive stalls on or really slows down.
On one of the switches it looks like there is discoloration on the rails. Further, I suspect the plastic connectors for many of the pieces are on their last legs, having been popped off and on frequently in my (at times changed daily!) multiple layout designs as a kid. Some pieces were inevitably stepped on, too.
I was thinking of putting together a small layout on a hollow core door, using my old unitrack and some new pieces to get a handle on what I want, what radius I can get away with, and other things. However, with the number of pieces having problems, is there any way to easily test the unitrack and fix the bad pieces? Or would it be easier to just buy new pieces. I'm not building a basement empire so the cost wouldn't be too bad to just buy new unitrack.
Two other questions:
1. Are there any companies these days that make superior sectional track compared to unitrack? If it would be easier to just ditch the old unitrack I might as well use better equipment.
2. Is there any issue using unitrack with DCC? I ask because unitrack has its own track power pieces and I don't know how a DCC setup will interact with that.
Many thanks for your help!