Hey all I am starting to plan a new layout and move on from my 4x8 which was based on the virginian. I am some what limited in my basement to an 8x10 so I went with a water wings L shape and have tried to go with the largest curves possble 24 and 22" any advice on changes I am all ears.
Two things I see, the two switchbacks, don't seem to make much sense why they need to be switchbacks, and they are going to be a hard stretch to reach.
If you eliminate the one in the upper right loop, you could run the track right to the right-hand wall and stretch the neck a little for a slightly longer run.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
There was no real reason other then I thought it could be intresting? I will take a look at editing them out
Interesting, yes, but generally avoided in both the real world and model because they are a pain to actually use. It's one thing for a switchback with long tails to climb a steep grade, such as for a logging camp, but a switchback to serve two industries means the one is always getting its car(s) moved from their spots to make room for the loco and cars to be delivered or picked up from the other industry.
One might be fine - especially if you make the tail long enough that the cars already at that industry can remain undisturbed by the loco making a pickup or setout at the industry on the switchback. You can probably do that to the one in the lower left loop.
Thanks for the feedback here is an updated plan
Only other thing I can see would be to extend the yard lead around the curve more. Keep the turnout you have now at the ladder end, just make it a crossover, and then keep the lead going parallel to the main around the curve. Optionally join it to the main, although that would require a curved turnout. The lead should be about the length of the yard tracks themselves. Right now, you have a track where a train could leave a cut of cars, but to then pull them and switch them into the yard would block the main.
Your track plan reminds me of the Virginian "water wings" HO 8X10 from my site, but simplified without the grades.
If the layout is against a wall at the bottom-left of your plan, you'll want to think about providing some form of access – otherwise the reach is likely too far. Also, it’s best to have at least 3" of space between the track centerline and the edge of the benchwork at the aisle, unless you plan to add plastic guards or some other means to keep trains from making the big plunge to the floor.
Good luck with your layout.
Byron
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Is there enough access to reach the entire layout? The pic doesn't answer that question, so def something to consider. I like the openness that the layout provides.
What type of industry were you thinking of? And what era? Depending on these answers you might want to consider space for a passenger station, a mountain and tunnel (mining), a turntable, or maybe even a dock and crane for modern stuff...
Simon
Thanks Byron yes I got the idea from your layout when researching how to use my limited space, I also do plan to have a bit of a grad for the track that runs along back. Access was also something I took into account from the start because that is the primary reason I dont like my 4x8 and want to be able to do everything from the front without wheeling the layout back and forth to get to places. The back and left side is againt a wall and I had to leave space on the left side to be able to walk and also so that I can move the whole layout over enough to be able to open a closet door under the stairs.
I am not 100% sure on industry yet except for a coal mine and was also thinking maybe a sawmill.
I am primarly aiming for 1950s and mostly have steam era, I would love a turn table but I am not sure where I would put it without taking away space for other areas.
Hi there. You don't absolutely need to have a turntable - you just need to think about it now before you start laying track.
I see a space under your main yard that could be used for a passenger station, although room would be limited to put in a parking and an access road. On another matter, are you sure that the switches South-East to the yard are necessary?
I removed those turnouts and tried the turn table, the 130 is too large but the 90' seems to fit and would work with all my current locos.
The 90' turntable is more in keeping with the size of steam locos that will run best with your radius curves.
You can find space in there for tracks around the turntable to store locos. Maybe even a small roundhouse if you back up the roundhouse a bit...
I printed out your plan and redlined my suggested changes. Eliminating the one little siding creates room for a longer double track mainline and increases the length of the yard lead so if you needed to, you could pull a full string of cars from any of the yard tracks without fouling the main.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Don, your suggestions also provide more room for the turntable and track around it.
here is my latest version based on feedback
Lots of operating fun there. Storage tracks around the turntable are often placed facing the entering track ( i.e., on the opposite side). It makes it easier to operate. If you place the turntable a bit more north west, you should de able to do that. You will also have more room for more storage tracks.
what is everyones thoughts on have a lift out section? this would allow me to have 24" curves around the outer loop and for engines that are not happy with 22.
Lift-outs are doable but so are duck-unders. I built my layout high enough so I can stoop without difficulty or roll under it sitting in a small secretarial chair on casters. I padded the underside of the benchwork framing also and added 2 low railings to lean on when passing through: help a lot. I am in my 80s.
Dante
that is also an option, how high did you make yours.
coreyhkh that is also an option, how high did you make yours.
Top of benchwork is 49 3/4"; duck-under clearance is 46". The padding is foam pipe insulation.
Duck- unders are a pain for the back and are difficult when you need to carry things to the layout. Lift-outs are not that hard to build. But do you really need one?
If you cannot bend over without pain, then use a small secretarial chair on casters to maneuver through. I have one, but haven't yet had to use it.