Geodesic Foam Scenery

[Anonymous]

Hi, I have used this product and was quite impressed. I sat through a 1 hour presentation at the Madcity train show in Madison a few years ago and immediately purchased the system after seeing how easy it was to do, and how fantastic the results were. You have to be careful with the foam when pouring it. Wear protective gloves. If you get it on you it can be quite sticky. That seems to be the only messy part you need to worry about. Once the foam and plastic hard shell begins to set, the material is quite easy to handle. I used it on my Dads layout, and I plan to use it on mine soon. Here is a picture of a river canyon I did using the molds and Geodesic Foam products.


And here is a shot of a small mountain.

[jwar]

JMCDONNELL

Well I am not an expert but will give you a bit of info of my first go at it.
Using the starter kit and three molds and a vidio for support.

Rub a very slight film of vasoline on the mold, then spray with white laquer.
two part cast satan just covering, dry to touch. Two Part foam resin and wait till dry. This takes about 40 min depending on the temp.remove from mold and install with hot glue. It will harden up in about 30 min so you have time to work.

Being the freshley removed casting is rather soft, is easy to form rock tunnel portals bu rolling it back a inch or so. One of my portals was a tad tight (low) and heating the plastic rock detailed casting with the wifes hair dryer was quick and effective.

On larger molds 14x 24 one should have a helper spred the resins, I did this by myself and it was a ru***o say the least.

Being the edge's are tapered they lap over another mold very nice, cant see the seams.

Paint with Gesso an artist acrylic for canvas type painting. This is very importent as the thin washes will resinate off the gesso with and exceptional realistic apearence.

Brush in black tampura and spray mist, then wash off 90% off, leaving a slight grayi***one and black crevices between rocks ect.

Here is the trick part. A very very fine wash of various tints. These multi layered washes really bring it to life. If one doesnt like it, repaint with gesso and start over.

With plaster type molds one washes the black wash on and the plaster takes the tint. If one over doooooos it, it a done deal and will be to darn dark. It chips and can come loose and will need repairs if nicked. The GFS system is a plastic hard shell when it sets, wont chip or flake off. and extreamly light weight.

I think the key is picking out casting that have vert and horz stratas.

The only really big drawback I had...Did not seek permission to use the wifes hair dryer.LOL Would I do it again...You bet...If you ever see one of these at a train show..you will know what Im talking about....Looks great...Take care... John

[CBQ_Guy]

I recently read that it is a very good product but would get quite expensive to use on a large layout, FWIW.

[jwar]

Muddycreek...I seen your method without the bubble wrap. Perhaps trying this...Lay saran wrap, then laying plastic screen, apply the foam, squeegie smooth, apply saran wrap over that and smooth out the air bubbles. Wait till it set and remove top layer of saran wrap. I believe its the same product your using. Might try a small piece to see..

MisterBeasely...I also had to look twice. I feel the same as you..the vidio is a good investment, concerning a ruined mould or resin wastage.

Today I only compleated about four square feet, lots of procrastination, relooking at the vidio, and not knowing the time the cast satin or foam sets. However now I can cut my time by 60% and get on with it....John

[MisterBeasley]

I saw an example of this at a show last month. Admittedly, I've got old eyes and it's been a while since my last glasses update, but I had to look twice to see that it wasn't really rock. I asked the layout owner, and he directed me to a local dealer who carried the material and who, incidentally, had built that particular model. He said he and his team had watched the instructional video twice, and then went out and built it.

Age and all, I'm a newbie when it comes to scenery. I'm just beginning to plan my benchwork now, but I thought this was such a terrific product that I bought the video and starter set. I also bought a Woodland Scenics "Learning Kit" so I can compare the two options with my own bumbling fingers, and see how they come out. The video does seem like it covers all the details, and it shows the material coming out of the mold quite easily.

[jwar]

Thank you Wayne.

The system I bought is from www.bragdonent.com and today Im forming the cast for the canyon. The detail is supurb and very quick considering the area. I elected to use screen and plaster hard shell as the plaster and screen are free. A sheet rock installer give me his opened containers when finishing a job.

What really impresses me is the technique of painting the scenery. Its so realistic and easy to do. Using Acrylic gesso then applying black tempera to highlight the rocks, then a very light wash of acrylic paint concentrates in several minutey light coats. If any area doesnt suit me I repaint with gesso and start over, with The WS method once you over highlighed an area you have a harder problem correcting it.

I have used the woodland scenics rock molds and the result was OK. However GS scenery in my openion is absolutly fantastic, more durable and would take me 80 or so hours to accomplish, using WS method.

I have about 18 square feet to do yet..so far so good....John

[Anonymous]

I haven't used their products but I am using the technique of 2-part plastic foam reinforced with Fiberglas screen on bubblewrap to form hills and mountains on my new layout with good success. The results are great and covers large areas with rough contour surfaces quickly. Attached to the foam board base, it forms a lightweight, rigid structure.

Have rough supports of foam risers or crumpled newspaper prepared before mixing your plastic as you do not have much time to fiddle as it cures fast. The technique is easy to do after a little practice on small pieces.

You can purchase the same 2-part plastic for far less from a number of plastic suppliers that sell direct to retail customers. If you're building a large layout, it pays to do a little online shopping. Look around for recycled bubble wrap and screening.

It isn't carvable like plaster but applying castings to it is easy. I paint the surface with a dark latex paint and apply sifted real dirt. My rock cuts are made with DAP Lightweight Spackling troweled into crumpled foil molds and applied while wet to the plastic "hardshell."

I needed to keep weight down on a large but rigid moveable sections and this method certainly does it. A 2'-8 x 7'-3" weighs in at under 15 lbs, including a lighweight wood frame.

Wayne

[jwar]

JMCDONNELL

I posted the same thread a few weeks ago and no replys. However I ordered it and will start (hopefully tomorow) soon. Bought three molds and the detail is fantastic. I will attemt a 18 to 26 in vertical rock cliff river canyon. Its not a cheap way to go getting the scenery in but I believe (gaknock on wood) the results will be worth every penney.

My main worry is getting it out of the molds without tearing the latex.

I went halves with another modeler on the molds. He will use the Plastic screen hardshell method and I 'm going with alum screen and plaster as I like more uneaven look to the canyon.

Will let you know how it turns out on this post and will put it on my watched topic list.

[Anonymous]

Hi,
does anyone have any expierience using Geodesic Foam in doing their scenery