Cover it with a thin putty or plaster, whatever you have on hand. Paint it. Then do two thin pours, no more than 1/8" each using a two-part finish epoxy. Even one would be fine. Final layer, slather the top level layer with a veneer of gel gloss medium and stipple the layer with the side of the applicator. Walk away for a full day and you should be good to go.
RedImperatorYou could always claim an old slaughterhouse dumped their offal in the pond and it's still outgassing today https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bubbly_Creek
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bubbly_Creek
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
You could always claim an old slaughterhouse dumped their offal in the pond and it's still outgassing today
Any city gets what it admires, will pay for, and, ultimately, deserves.
mbinsewiI've never used the WS stuff, I've always used Envirotex casting resin.
Right on, Mike. Whatever route to a fix I take already includes plan to use Envirotex. Nearby MRRs use it exclusively and no one seems to have had any problems. MRR December 2019 cover feature article layout is nearby and his water under the trestle bridge looks like a $1M bucks up close and in person. Thanks.
I see some of your pictures, enough to see what happend.
As mentioned before, shave off the bubbles. Give the area a thin coat of dry wall mud, or a thin set patching plaster to fill everything in to a flat surface.
After it's completly dry, repaint the area to give the appearance of depth, as you did the first time, and repour.
I've never used the WS stuff, I've always used Envirotex casting resin.
Go to the General discussion forum, scroll down to the thread "Making realistic water". Dr. Wayne has some pictures in there, along with other contributors that show pictures, and methods.
Mike.
My You Tube
Here is a photo of the Realistic Water pour on my old layout.
Here was my first attempt to free the tugboat which had partially sunk into the cured Realistic Water.
That didn't work. so I tried even harder to free the tug boat. The sea was angry that day, my friend.
Finally got it out of its watery grave.
Here is the victim, waiting to be cleaned up and ready for another day at sea - - sailing in something other than WS Realistic Water.
Rich
Alton Junction
If there is no bridge involved, mix up a batch of scultptamold and make a hill out of it.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I did try to add pics but didn't seem to include them in the updated post.
Ok. Seeing the dilema with most options. I would try to find a way to level the big bumps. Take the top off of the bubbles at the top Then pour thin layers. If the bumps arent too high, Use wave making materials and hide them. Waves hide a bunch of oopsies. Drill into the deeper down bubbles and use a syringe to inject new water to fill them. The marks almost completely dissappear. Again waves hide a lot of oopsies
best place to start before any other more drastic work.
Did you try to add pics that didnt show? Almost sounds line you had
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Great input folks. Thanks. I'll try to address all issues.
Yes, my first time using the WS product. Given the age I have a sense it was their product before Realistic Water. It was one part and I did in fact do several pours of 1/8" or less per instructions as well as a week or so apart as I was only working on the layout on weekends. As I can recall temperature and humidity was not a concern. All went well and actually looked good for a number of months. THEN the bubbles began to appear and over time came to the uglyness shown below. Again - my bad was not having a purely acrylic paint sealer over the foam board. And yes, as can be seen, this is in a completely finished area. The structural issues come from cutting out the whole area of foam from the L-girder benchwork and lack of access from below because there is a second level staging yard under it now and the wiring can not be reliably located as well.
I'm thinking that the best hints of a solution from your reply posts might be to cut away the bubbles somehow (sanding, chisel, Dremel w/cut off, etc.) and float a coat of plaster or dry wall mud over the whole area and then start from scratch with a proper sealant, painting, pouring, etc.
Great questions posted. Another to answer is whether this was the OP's first time using the product. A great lesson learned is not using something new on a visible part of the layout. Another is asking how others use(d) the product and their results.
My first question is, did you stop scenery work in that area, or was it finished? two. What structural issue is making complete removal not doable?
three. Can you get pictures up? That would greatly help
is the realisttic water the hot melt version or 2 part version epoxy version?
If it is the hot melt version, a hairdryer ( or paint stripper gun, basically an over powered hairdryer) and needle will work it out
shane
mbinsewi You might have to just bit the bullet, and remove it, clean up the mess, and start over. Don't think that it's out of question, or not doable, or out of the question. If you want it fixed, you have to do what it takes. Mike.
You might have to just bit the bullet, and remove it, clean up the mess, and start over. Don't think that it's out of question, or not doable, or out of the question. If you want it fixed, you have to do what it takes.
A picture would really help with ideas for redoing this area.
My first thought is to do something like Wayne reccomends, or maybe after making the area flat again, skim coat it with dry wall mud, to get a flat smooth surface, and then start over.
mrnimble...Painting over it and re-pouring seems out due to the bulges in the surface....
If the pour was done that long ago, and you've not yet corrected it and it's still buggin' you, time to take action. There are lots of knowledgeable modellers here willing to offer suggestions, especially if you can give us a little more with which to work.
Wayne
Did you do several thin pours or a single thick pour?
I'm an Envirotex user. For this product, gas is generated by pouring the resin too thick so gas can't escape before the resin hardens.
You probably have to bite the bullet and remove the problem area. Yeah, it's a mess and a lot of effort, and it will disturb everything around it, but you really can't fix a bad pour any other way.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I am trying to figure out how to repair a 8 - 10 year old bad water pour using WS Realistic Water. This is bad folks - bubbles bulging out through the surface, some as big as small grapes. What caused it has been explained to me as gassing from an improperly prepared subsurfce over foam insulation board. It has always looked bad but I've never come up with a reasonable way to fix it but would like to take the time to try and do so now.
Cutting out the area (small lake about 20" diameter with a 2 - 3" wide stream flowing away toward the backdrop) is out of the question due to structural / benchwork complications. Painting over it and re-pouring seems out due to the bulges in the surface. Sanding the whole thing flat to start over will likely create a HUGE mess. And lastly, I don't know if the bubbles were cut away somehow if they could be filled and then a new 1/8" or so pour over the area would fix it. And then, of course, is the issue of forming and painting new banks and depth colorations. Anyone having made such a severe repair or suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Geoff