The only issue I have with roadbed attached track besides cost is that it looks sectional so I ended up ballasting it anyway
Joe Staten Island West
Since you wish to use code 100, you might look into using Bachmann's nickel-silver E-Z track. It's "click track" that comes with the track sections attached to gray plastic roadbed. Unlike Kato and Atlas click-track, where the track is attached to simulated ballast, E-Z track is attached to what functions as the roadbed. You add the ballast later yourself.
https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=604_782_783&zenid=iu6iupbbaco1onev41idq3uq33
Yes, why wait with ballast? Besides what Wayne mentioned, ballast looks very realistic. It's easy to add and secure too.
Thanks for the reminder of what to add on the shopping list!
I'll vote for painting cork roadbed with Rustoleum Stone Effects Gray.
.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Buy the Kato or Atlas stuff that has the road bed and "ballast" built in.
The only other time to lay track without ballast, is a logging railroad, like the Roddis Line, which weaved it way through the Wisconsin north woods, using track from the SOO line, and logs for ties. (Finished lumber from the owners mills had to be shipped on the SOO)
The only ballast was what wood debris fell of the log cars. When the logging was done, the SOO took back the track, and everything was abandoned.
Mike.
My You Tube
On balance I'd say unballasted cork roadbed, with its dark and somewhat mottled look, looks a bit more like prototype track than unballasted homa-bed or homasote with its uniform gray color and visible texture. Painting the homabed or homasote would help, as pointed out earlier, but painting the stuff does tend to lessen its sound deadening qualities in my experience, and also makes it a bit harder to drive in spikes for hand laid track.
But I'd also say that while cork and homabed both have their virtues and both are worthy of consideration, it seems to be putting the cart before the horse to choose the one that looks better without ballast, when at some point you will ballast.
If you do use cork, and it took me a while to learn about and believe this, it really helps to smooth out the cork roadbed once it is laid by using a large flat (lightly) abrasive sanding sponge. There are little bumps and bulges on cork roadbed as it comes.
By the way and slightly OT, at one time LifeLike sold bags of "ballast" that was nothing more than ground-up cork roadbed. It has a sort of pepper and salt look.
I first heard about the rattle can of stone texture idea in an MR article by then editor Terry Thompson, so I gave it a try particularly under some turnouts where I was assuming I would not be ballasting around the moving points. I think that is what Thompson's article was about. Yes it does give a somewhat more ballasted look than plain cork. However it has a genuine texture and thus the turnout was not sitting on an utterly smooth flat surface but on a slightly rough pebbly surface. Also the spray itself is not easy to control. Worst of all I think I got exactly two uses out of my rattle can before it became hopelessly clogged (even with holding it upside down and spraying until nothing came out). If you decide to try it then plan ahead and think of all the areas you want to use it in advance so you can do them in one application if possible.
Still thinking I would not ballast around the moving points I then tried using what I guess I'd call weathered sandpaper - but rather fine grit otherwise the coarse grit will cause the same problems of an irregular surface for the turnout. I used dark chalks and india ink + alcohol to darken the sandpaper. It looked OK.
Frankly however once you really DO ballast your track any area where you have tried an alternative to ballasting sticks out like a sore thumb. It is actually possible to ballast a turnout, with care. Even under the moving points. I practiced on a cheap brass track switch I had from a prior layout. It worked on the first try! So then I did it on the layout. Failure! It is a learned skill.
Dave Nelson
Once you have the track laid and operational, why delay ballasting? It's one of the easiest-to-do-jobs on your layout, and, along with painting the rails, gives you the most bang-for-your-buck that you'll ever encounter in model railroading.
Wayne
I like the rattle-can stone idea... Reminds me of the really old-school approach of tacking sandpaper on a 1X3 lumber base to simulate a stone base.
Simon
You can just lay cork sprayed with a rattle can called stone, think you can get in gray and brown. It has specks in it and looks not half bad.
carl425 Homabed from Cascade Rail Supply. It's already gray and is available with 30 degree slope.
Homabed from Cascade Rail Supply. It's already gray and is available with 30 degree slope.
Another vote for homabed from Cascade, way better than cork.........ballast later or not.
Ballasting should be done after everything is running well and scenery is being done anyway.
Sheldon
You could lay track on cork "old school" and spray paint it. Ballast it later.
Used Rustoleum Camo brown here:
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Best is in the eyes of the track layer. I would try cork painted grey or black.
I am building an Ho scale layout with code 100 track. I may eventually lay ballast, but I'd like to lay the tack on a roadbed initially without ballast. All other considerations aside, which roadbed would look the best without ballast?