Looking for Information on How to Build a Peninsula

[Marc_Magnus]

I'm in the way to make a huge extension of my N scale layout since I live now in Québec

I'm a ferm beleiver of the use steel contruction for our layouts because of rigidity and the less important use of heavy wood construction structures like L girder.

This ended in a concept to build steel frame were the wood is screwed which support the conventionnal construction of a layout.

My future train room is huge and I have the place enough to put two big peninsula

I share with you my concept and construction of the post I will use to support the full peninsula which are around 45 ' each

Course you need to have the skill to solder steel tube together, but the peninsula  post can be done in wood with some alteration

 

[doctorwayne]

As has already been mentioned, a peninsula isn't really much different than the rest of an around-the-room layout, although the majority of it can't be fastened to the walls.
The support structure of my layout is mostly 2"x4"s, mysteriously left-over after building my own house.  Where it's along the walls, it's lag-bolted to the wall studs, and the benchwork, mostly 1"x4"s, is screwed to both the support structure and to the wall studs. 
The partial upper level is supported by custom-welded angle iron brackets, and is a combination of 1"x4"s and 1"x2"s, also attached to the walls.

Here's a rough drawing of my oddly-shaped layout room, with the peninsula plainly shown...

This older photo shows some of it, but it's difficult to get all of it into the same photo...

This more recent view (taken about 3 minutes ago) shows it from its end...

This photo, also taken from the end, shows the mostly 2"x4" support structure (there's some 2"x6" and 2"x8" in there, too, and a few 4"x4" uprights - it was on-hand, and not needed for anything else)...

...and another view, looking towards the end...

...which shows the framing to create the curved sides and end, along with some of the "stuff" stored beneath the layout. 

Most of the below-the-layout area has a shelf about 6" above the floor, and is used to store pretty-well anything - toys, tools, appliances, and, of course, train stuff too.  It's fitted with either sliding or lift-off doors made from the same Masonite as was used for the fascia.

The peninsula is very solidly-built and will not budge even when heavily bumped, and the open grid framework easily supports my weight, as I'll be doing some of the scenery work while atop it.

For anyone who's interested, there's a Layout (room) tour, with lots of photos...HERE.

Wayne 

[rrinker]

I had two palces on my last layout that needed an attachment to the wall. One was a section that was only 1' wide at the end of a row of 2' sections, right where I cut in a lift out to get int he room. That was unstable until I got a 90 degree metal andlge and attached it to a wall stud. No different than having a hole to patch where a picture wa shung when I moved out. The other was a small standalong section, which had liftouts connecting to either side of it. Tall and toppy with no other anchored modules near it, so again, a single 90 degree metal piece into a stuf andit was fine. The free end opposite that was a full 2' wide section, and it was stable enough with nothing extra needed even though it only connected to the rest of the benchwork at one end.

                               --Randy

 

[riogrande5761]

dknelson

I think 2 feet is a good practical minimum width for a peninsula.  Even then there are concerns with operators bumping into it or kicking the legs etc. which is why I have more diagonal trusses on my peninusla than on the main layout, part of which is bolted to vertical joists along the wall. Dave Nelson 

I didn't have a pennisula on my last layout but am planning something like that on a planned layout.  But I found even with my around the walls layout, the benchwork could be shaken or jarred easily so I bollted it to the wall in a number of place to make it solid, and provided sufficient bracing on the legs. 

This is all basically 2' wide benchwork under construction:

I'm expecting I'll need more solid legs and bracing in the areas that I cannot anchor to the walls.

[dknelson]

One issue with a peninsula is stability, and in particular with long and narrow peninsulas.  While it is absolutely correct that you don't want it so wide that it is impractical to reach in to solder feeder wires, do scenery work and re-rail cars, even if it is well anchored to the rest of the layout (and assuming the rest of the layout itself is solid and not wobbly), I think 2 feet is a good practical minimum width for a peninsula.  Even then there are concerns with operators bumping into it or kicking the legs etc. which is why I have more diagonal trusses on my peninusla than on the main layout, part of which is bolted to vertical joists along the wall.

Dave Nelson 

[kasskaboose]

rrinker

 Exactly, there's nothing different about a peninsula. The only complication somes in the planning - how wide can you make it without squeezing the aisle space between it and the adjoining benchwork, and how long can it be before it runs in to an obstacle or else squeezes too close to the benchwork on the opposite side of the layout. And those are just measurements. Construction is no different than any of the rest of the benchwork.

                                       --Randy

 

 

Randy and others are correct about construction.  I have a peninsula and built it the same as other parts of the layout--making an L-girder with 1x4s across top two feet apart.  Spacing the 1x4s apart gives me the flexibility to add feeders through the foam. 

 

Try to avoid making the peninsula too wide.  Even with a step stool, you don't want to overreach.  I do have aisle loss but not enough where a person can't get there.  More than a foot of space is beyond adequate to sqeeze between the aisle and peninsula.

[rrinker]

 Exactly, there's nothing different about a peninsula. The only complication somes in the planning - how wide can you make it without squeezing the aisle space between it and the adjoining benchwork, and how long can it be before it runs in to an obstacle or else squeezes too close to the benchwork on the opposite side of the layout. And those are just measurements. Construction is no different than any of the rest of the benchwork.

                                       --Randy

 

[richhotrain]

Trainzman2435

Hello, can anyone point me in the direction of some information on how to go about building a center peninsula for my layout? I have looked on the interweb but cant seem to find anything like what i am looking for. I am not a professional carpenter but i can read and follow directions....Thanks! 

How is the rest of your layout built?  Build the peninsula the same way, using the same construction methods.

Rich

[gmpullman]

Hi,

Lots of basic information can be found right in the M-R resources in the top menu bar.

For instance,

http://mrr.trains.com/how-to/get-started/2017/05/the-salt-lake-route-part-2-benchwork-with-folding-legs

So, instead of a free-standing table, a peninsula will be supported by your existing benchwork at one end and legs at the other.

Modify the details shown in the article to suit your needs.

Good luck, Ed

 

 

[TrainsRMe1]

Hey I hope your layout works out well, I'm also not a carpenter, but my last layout I thought came out find, if your looking for info on building a peninsula, make things easy on yourself, look up Sievers modrlrailroad benchwork, they build your benchwork for you!! look them up on line www. sieversbenchwork.com, they will send you infomation that you will need to build your benchwork, NO sawing, NO drilling, unless you are going to get that pressed board from a lumber yard for your subroadbed, From one MRR to another, this would make your work SOOOOOO much easier!!!!

[Trainzman2435]

Hello, can anyone point me in the direction of some information on how to go about building a center peninsula for my layout? I have looked on the interweb but cant seem to find anything like what i am looking for. I am not a professional carpenter but i can read and follow directions....Thanks!