Snap switches arent too snappy on first layout.

[Anonymous]

You know how you have to power the Stationary decoders with an AC power supply as you do with the switches? Well I also had the same problem that you are having that they did not SNAP over good enough and sometimes cause derails. I needed more power to cause this. SO I called Loys Toys (advice from someone else) and the guy on the phone told me I need a better power supply because I was using a cheap Life like power supply just for the switches. He recommended that I buy his Ac supply that was the same voltage at 18v but it has a higher ohm. I have to tell you. I hooked it up with no good expectations but as soon as I hit a switched (BOOM) it went over with a SNAP. The ac supply cost me only $12 call him with your problem and he will hook you up. He may recommend you get one of those capacitor discharge units. Call someone, anyone and get it right dawg. Luck

[BRVRR]

Gary,
I use snap switches on my layout. The powered ones all have under table switch machines, or conversions, on them now. Those I can reach easily have Caboose Industries ground throws for operation.
If the same switch is sticking all the time there might be something fouling it. Make sure the throw bar isn't binding. Look under it. A piece of ballast, dirt or anything else will cause friction and slow or stop the 'snap' action.
Sometimes the switch machine sticks a little. A drop of plastic compatible oil will help here. Always use the first, inner, hole in the throw bar. The others limit the movement too much in most cases.
What are you using for power? Some of the smaller power packs don't put out enough juice to operate the switch machines reliably. I had real problems when I was using a "train set" power pack as a power source. Upgraded to a MRC Railpower 1300 and the problem was solved.
99% of the time when a snap switch fails it is from fouling or mis-alignment of a component.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Added to original post.
P. S. If a switch machine has been overheated the barrel the slug travels in may warp. This can result in a sticky switch. The only cure for this is replacement of the switch machine.

[Paul W. Beverung]

Hi Gary; I use a lot of snap switches on my layout in the yards and industrial areas. I've found that they need a little bit of tuning up. One thing that I do is get rid of the snap switch machines. I've been using manual throws on mine. For your problem I'd look first for anything in the points that may be getting in the way of them. This could be a small as a piece of ballast that is beeing moved around until it hags up in the points. Also check the throw bar and the little rod that comes out of the machine to the throw bar. Those snap machines are plenty powerful I just don't like the way they look.

Let us know what you find. Good Luck

Paul

the Duluth, Superior, & Southeastern

" The Superior Route "

[BNSFGP38]

I should have said " Did you buy them at the same time" instead "off the same shelf". When I worked at the Great train store we would occasionally get some Atlas swtiches back, 99.9999% the customer bought them at the same time, which means they came out of the same box. Usally it was a Atlas defect from the factotry.

Also, there is an "adjustment" on the Atlas switch machines. On the rod the points are connected too where the pin from the switch connects. Their are two holes there, I usally put it in the first hole.

[iwasgr8]

These 2 switches came from a hobby shop here in Illinois I go to.

[BNSFGP38]

Is it just one swtich? Or if its multple switches, did you buy them off the same shelf?

I have used Atlas, both code 100 and 83 with out a problem since I was 4 years old (1988).

[iwasgr8]

I have Atlas snap switches wired to stationary decoders in my Zephyr DCC system. These switches occaisionally cause derailments as they either will not fully close or open. What can I do to rectify this? Is there some motor or sping setup out there? Different switches? This is my first layout and I am trying to make it reliable.

Gary