I've tried them all from sheet rock plaster, Smooth It, roofing materials, fine sand, road dirt, even fine dust from the roadways. Recently I have used foam board. Yes, it is thicker than scale pavement but I can bring the surrounding up a little to off set the difference. In fact I have decided to use Bachman easy track for a larger layout, no more cutting track and pushing nails. Once I have the track work I want I will calk it down. You can still ballast the Easy Track and it looks good, but I will save so much time when it comes to laying track and using foam board for station platforms, streets, even sidewalks.
The foam board has a nice elevation to match the track level and I use if for my roads.
Recent project using foam board for the road. They are still working on it, getting ready to pave it.
Lots of activity inorder to complete this project. The foam board is light weight and I just attached it with caulk and some screws.
After the street was paved I think it looks pretty good. A lot easier to work with than Smooth It or Sheet rock paste to make a street.
With the telephone poles in with the wiring hung, highway markings applied and the guard rail installed it's ready for use. This weekend I am putting in 'Plug 'n Play' street lights and lighting the interior of some of the buildings.
I like working with the foam board and once painted I think it looks as good as any road material.
Robert Stlvester
Newberry-Columbia Line, SC
I use black roofing shingles nailed down with track nails. In use for 3+decades. If you like the texture..fine, if not..flip them over and paint what ever you like. If you use cork roadbed, shingles flex right up to edge of track. Cut a piece for the track center and nail in place allowing for a flangeway. All locomotives [various manufactures] and rolling stock equipped with Kadee couplers and correctly adjusted have no problems going over rail crossings. They are easy to cut with tin snips or they can be scored and snapped almost like plastic. Changes and additions to layout are easy and the pieces can be re-used. I cut off the sticky tabs upon purchase of two bundles and trimmed them square. Used on both HO and O-scale layouts. Also used for sidewalks and shop/factory floors. Just flip over and paint to suit. Good Luck!
I second what Lion roared. I have used shingles on my previous layout and on my current one for gravel roads. I think they work perfectly.
I am not certain there is one best way to model roads. If you look at real roads you'll see there is alot of variation in color and smoothness from road to road. Color can range from a dark almost black grey to a heavily faded white.
My Grandpa developed a technique in which he first sands the surface to make it flat, then mixes a fine sand (I think it was sand blasting sand but it could have been something else) with paint of the desired color with the sand and applies it with a paint brush. The end result was a very nicely textured road (well actually in this case it was a parking lot).
Whatever method you chose I recommend using only a few meathods on your layout, so the roads all look somewhat uniform. Also test techniques off your layout to find something you really like. Good luck!
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
BroadwayLion On one layout, LION used roffing material. Of Course it was too thick, but that doesnt matter. LION built the city blocks on a 1/4 peice of hardboard. That kinda makes the sidewalks and the curbs, and the road was a little bit lower. ON new layout of LION, I have some foam board that used to be part of our roofing system, It is a little dented and wavy, that is why I saved it. Paint it back and it will look like New York City Ashphalt. Just use come 1/8" harboard for the blocks and it will look great. ROAR
On one layout, LION used roffing material. Of Course it was too thick, but that doesnt matter. LION built the city blocks on a 1/4 peice of hardboard. That kinda makes the sidewalks and the curbs, and the road was a little bit lower.
ON new layout of LION, I have some foam board that used to be part of our roofing system, It is a little dented and wavy, that is why I saved it. Paint it back and it will look like New York City Ashphalt. Just use come 1/8" harboard for the blocks and it will look great.
ROAR
Just be sure to add some potholes.
Joe Staten Island West
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
I have used several methods, each with its own particular results.
For simulating asphalt or macadam I have made a base using styrene or sometimes a spackling compound. when dry I would lightly sand it and prime it with a dark color.
Then I would apply a sheet of eva foam in 1mm thickness. This stuff represents asphalt pretty well. It can be carved or painted. Sometimes I "weather" it using Pan Pastel powders.
https://tinyurl.com/y5tnqy6v
The above link is only an example. I've found it in shades of black and gray and tan.
This parking lot and walkway were made with the EVA foam, shown before any "weathering" was applied.
IMG_7114 by Edmund, on Flickr
In other places I've used Durhams Rock Putty to simulate a dirt or gravel road and in urban scenes have used the Walthers plastic street system.
This crossing is being made using Durham's Water Putty:
IMG_8588 by Edmund, on Flickr
Good Luck, Ed
The ground around the road can be built up to hide the thickness.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
I need to know what is the best way to build roads on my lay out. I am currently expermenting with 1/8 inch black foamboard, seems to look ok, but still looks a little thick. But when you bend the foamboard slightly, you get all these interesting cracks on the road way.