There's also the hairspray method, a la Shortline Modelers. Structure pictured is basswood with walls braced.
After the application of Tamiya spray can gray surface primer inside and out dried completely a few coats of unthinned hairspray was applied with an airbrush, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next.
Light airbrushed finish coat of Tamiya XF-2 flat white allowed to dry for maybe 20 min. Working in small sections brush on a bit of water, wait a minute or so, then with a dampened stiff bristle brush stipple the surface. Stipple carefully as it's easy to remove too much paint, especially at first. As the paint cures it doesn't come off as easy, so working quickly is an advantage.
Have used this method with Floquil paint with good results, but paint lifts off a bit more stubbornly.
Can only guess that this method would work okay with a spray can finish coat judiciously applied.
As others have wisely suggested it's best to experiment first. Also as other's have noted weathering powders and or pastels can enhance the effects.
Btw, hooray, seems that Flickr is back afloat!
Regards, Peter
I saw an article for modeling peeling paint some time ago, and it involved using rubber cement.
After priming and sealing the wood, the walls were painted with aged wood tones (i.e. grey). Then a small brush was used to dab on some rubber cement in the areas where the paint was to have to peeled off. The idea is to not cover the whole surface with the rubber cement. Apply it in small irregular spots. After the rubber cement dries apply the top colour coat. Once the top colour has dried the rubber cement can be rubbed off, taking part of the colour coat with it, and revealing the aged wood underneath. The edges of the peeling paint are very clearly defined.
You might want to practise on some scrap wood so you can figure out how much rubber cement to use.
I have never tried this method, but the results sure looked good in the article.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
LION might not want to use water based paints and especially water thined india ink, as it may cause the wor to warp. Of course if the wood is mounted to a firm foundationthen this is not a problem.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Thanks!
Hi,
I generally prime the bare wood with light coats of gray or white primer (rattle can) which helps to seal the wood and prevent warpage. I do both sides of the plain wood and, obviously, one side when there is adhesive backing on the other.
Even if I'm going for an aged wood look the primer helps the adhesive to get a grip and helps prevent moisture from warping the wood. I believe the alcohol in the India ink wash would soften the adhesive too much and also cause the surface of the wood to resist adhesion of the glue.
Even after building up the windows, doors and other small parts I like to apply just a bit of thin PVA and allow it to draw into the joint by capillary action.
Any of the acrylic model paints will work well. I still have quite a few jars of PollyScale which would be my first choice.
Once you have the model nearly complete you might want to try an ink wash but I have had equally good results with Pan Pastel dry powders.
2¢ 2¢
Good Luck, Ed
Thanks for the suggestion
What I do to get a faded weathered look; Get a base color,you already got that.
[I'm not sure a ink/mix wash will give you anough color]
I use craft paints, dapped on with a make up sponge. Squrit some paint on a pieace cardboard, or what ever. Load up the sponge, then wipe most of it off. Dab on building. You can control the paint very well,with pratice. Heavy down to almost none.
As I said I use craft paints,cheap,cleanup with water, easy to mix any color your heart may desire
I am building a Laser Kit wooden depot structure (specifically basswood) by AMB and would like to know what type of paint (acrylic?) you would recommend using to paint the structure. I plan on staining the wood first with a India ink-rubbing alcohol mix to give me the ability to recreate some weathered areas on the structure