wall track

[Anonymous]

Has anyone done a track around a room on the wall? Is there an easy way to do this such as a kit, or do I start from scratch? Is there a basic plan about as far as a foundation to attach to the wall or not or do I have to design my own? Thanks, poorwilly

[mcouvillion]

poorwilly,

This topic has been discussed before. Several folks intend to use gussets (triangular-shaped reinforcements), attached to the studs in the wall, to support the layout. You probably will not have a real wide surface (18-21"max) but it should be adequate for track and scenery. Gussets eliminate legs and do minimal permanent damage to the walls. If you are going to do two or more levels, the gussets could be installed upside down, such that they can be hidden by scenery (mountains, buildings). Consider mounting the railroad at a height that is comfortable for adults to view, then you still have adequate storage space underneath the layout for furniture, etc.

Mark C.

[mike33469]

I just finished the benchwork on my around the room shelf layout. Here is what I did it was easy and works very well. Fri st I located the studs,use a finishing nail and hammer it in where you think a stud should be, when you find enough studs attach a 1"X4" around the room at what ever height you want your layout to be mine is 54". Start in a corner and start attaching 1/2" plywood 2' wide by as long as you wi***o the 1"X4"'s. Next I bought heavy duty shelf brackets from Home Depot [they are 10"X I3" I attached these every few feet . I then covered all the plywood with Homasote and started laying track. I now have a very sturdy layout with no legs to get in the way.

[Jetrock]

Shelf layouts are pretty common. Mine is done in a fairly permanent fashion in the wall of my garage. It is fairly narow (1 foot wide for the most part) so it doesn't need gobs of structural strength.

I first drew a level line the length of the wall, and screwed 2"x2" lumber into the length of the wall (using 3" drywall screws every 2 feet) at 48" off the ground.

Then I added 12" shelf brackets underneath the 2"x2", again every 2 feet.

Above each bracket I attached a 10" piece of 2x2 to the main support (using metal L-brackets) and then attached 1"x2" lumber to the front, running the entire length of the room again.

This gave me a 1'x18' shelf, upon which I place my modules, securing them with C-clamps. A second layer of shelf 24" above the layout acts as an upper fascia and place to hang lights.

[john lea]

What kind of width do you have and what is the length? These things may vary your lay out. I don't beleive that there is anything you can't figure out if you want to build a layout. All of the above are very important for structuring the suporting of your project, but , you must figure out want you want to accompolish first. Yards,mountiants, both, or just a place to run your rolling stock. I personallity love to run trains and switch cars and I like the locals, keeping in mind that the passenger trains are of the number one importance, as in realle life are of number one on the schudle. So with that said try and find a suitable wall mount. some like to model real trains, some like to do what ever they want to model. I like to do both. Engines real, and cars real, the tables and etc. what ever fits my room, or in your case, the wall! John

[Bob Hayes]

If you can find a copy of Jan. & Feb. 1977 Model Railroader, there is an article entitled "Bookshelf railroads" written by Robert J. Lutz. One of the methods he illustrats uses metal standards and brackets(you can get them at most home improvement stores); the kind you might use for book shelves. He attaches"C" shaped brackets made from plywood which hold up his layout as well as a place to store books. You might also check out Bill Darnaby's articles on using rigid foam insulation board for layouts. BTW, you might want to get a stud finder. They are very inexpensive, and you won't end up with a bunch where the studs weren't!
Bob Hayes