I've read where some cover the scene area (over the cardboard or wadded paper) with dry newspaper, then wet it down with a spray bottle to let it conform to the desired terrain shape. Then the plaster soaked towels are placed over it. The purpose was to primarily to catch plaster drips from hitting the benchwork and floor.
But using newspaper instead of towels... too thin IMHO.
Jim
And I also think the glossy print and paper wouldn't allow the goop to soak in.
I dunno, never tried it, as I used different methods.
And yes, dry wall joint compound (dry wall mud) is different than plaster.
Mike.
My You Tube
I would think newspaper would be too fragile.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Can I use newspaper strips or ads instead of paper towel? It would be nice to put those annoying ads from the mailbox to good use. Just wondering....
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
basementdweller I have made plaster cloth out of used dryer sheets, a good quality paper towel could work too. For a plaster avoid ready mix joint compound as it dries by evaporation and is realatively weak. I like using USG 210 minute Easy Sand dry mix setting type joint compound. If you want a quicker set up time go with the 90 minute. I mix it pretty soupy for making my own plaster cloth. The plaster and grout you already have, there are so many types, just mix some up and make some thin "patties". Once dry try to break them and see what you think as far as their strength.
I have made plaster cloth out of used dryer sheets, a good quality paper towel could work too.
For a plaster avoid ready mix joint compound as it dries by evaporation and is realatively weak. I like using USG 210 minute Easy Sand dry mix setting type joint compound. If you want a quicker set up time go with the 90 minute.
I mix it pretty soupy for making my own plaster cloth.
The plaster and grout you already have, there are so many types, just mix some up and make some thin "patties". Once dry try to break them and see what you think as far as their strength.
Do a test, before the layout. It's more than a required expiration date, it does go bad.
My wife brought home all the expired casting wrap over the years from the Vet Hosp. I have accumulated quite a bit, at some point, I will give it a try. I don't think my layout will sue if I use expired plaster wrap on it.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I build the form of the mountain or hills with cardboard cut up from old boxes. I hot glue it together as needed. I place rock outcroppings made from plaster casts onto the form using hot glue to hold them Next I dip paper towels into plaster and spread them over the area. After it dries for a few days or longer I paint it with an earth colored latex house paint. While the paint is still wet I sprinkle on the first layer of ground cover. I use Lifelike brand "Earth" which is shredded saw dust.
Probably methods not using plaster cloth are going to be messier. Some messier methods are to dip paper towels in soupy plaster and lay them on the structure you are using (cardboard strips, foam etc.). Just about anything you do use is still going to cost but it will be low cost. (dryer sheets, paper towels, Rob Spangler used some sort of gauze lie you can get from a fabric store, IIRC).
Since it isn't really that expensive, I'm planning on using it in the future as it is pretty nice to work with and minimum mess.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Don't recall having cracking with hydrocal. The mix is simple, if it's too thick it you can't really dip a paper towel in it. If it's too thin, there is hardly any plaster on the paper towel. My tip for cardboard lace is to make it tight, with small holes, otherwise you will have a waffle appearance, after you apply the plaster.
I too, used commercial paper towels because I thought they were cheaper, not necessarily stronger. I did not know about dyeing the plaster 30 years ago. I am doing that now using sculptamold.
I haven't heard of sculptamold being used to dip paper towels and I doubt it would be as strong. It can be used in molds and it can be spread over foam or shaper sheets. It takes a lot longer to fully dry than plaster. That's not a huge disadvantage, just something to be aware of.
My first experience making scenery dates back to the early 60's when MR articles were describing "Hard Shell" and "Zip Textering" techniques.
Following these, I used commercial-grade (restroom) paper towels (stronger than kitchen-grade), dipped in patching plaster that was tinted to a light earth-tone shade with black or brown, dry powdered pigment, and draped over wadded newspaper stuffed along the edges of the subroadbed. When the hardshell setup, I removed the wads of newspaper and brushed on more of the plaster to give the hardshell some grain and rock strata.
All this was done in a vented attic (no heat or AC) in PA, and the the scenery was not affected by years of temp or humidity changes.
If you're using open grid benchwork, or plan on using plaster rock castings, you'll likely need to support significant areas of hardshell with cardboard web or pillars/landforms of styrofoam.
The pigment is optional, and usually in liquid form now. For plaster-water ratios, I suggest following lable instructions and adjust as needed.
For some rolling terrain, I used cardboard strips on this bit. I stole some tea towels out of the kitchen drawer and dunked it in some Plaster Of Paris and slapped them on. Still in good shape nine years later.
Your going to need type of structure to hold your plaster cloth, and "form" the basic ground forms your looking for, such as wire screening, heavy carboard strips, chunks and piececs of styrofoam, etc.
I used styrofoam, the blue or the pink, for my basic land forms, carved it the way I wanted, and then covered it with what ever I needed, to give the look I wanted. Mostly just paint. I carved the rock faces, and painted it to give the look of rock, I painted the grassy areas and used different ground cover techniques to finish it.
About the only plaster (actually dry wall mud) I used was in making concrete structures, and paved areas.
You can use the white beaded stuff, buts it's really messy, with beads all over, with static electricity making it stick to everything.
Plaster will shrink and crack easily, so you have to do in thin layers.
What type of grout are we talking? Tile setting grout, self-leveling grout? machine base setting grout? there are many different types and all act differently.
Looking to finally do some terrain on my layout, don't want to buy anything if I don't have to (sculptamould, plastercloth, etc) I have plaster and grout. Which one of these is better (I am assuming the plaster, but not sure) and how can I make DIY plaster cloth using whichever one? Soak paper strips in the plaster? What would be the proportions of plaster to water? Which is the best way to avoid cracking in a non climate controlled enviroment?