I just purchased my first Caboose Industries 220s ground throw with the contacts for powering switch frogs. The instructions are so vague and confusing I don't know where to start. I looked into YouTube and here in MR for any better instructions, maybe with pictures, and am finding nothing. Any any links to better instructions will be greatly appreciated. I'm, like most persons, a visual learner. Thanks;Capt. Brigg FranklinCEO Pacific Cascade Ry in HO gauge;
i used the 202's, sprung with no contacts here, and had no problems ..
unfortunately i don't have an assembly ?? image to put on here ?
Capt.BriggI just purchased my first Caboose Industries 220s ground throw with the contacts for powering switch frogs. The instructions are so vague and confusing I don't know where to start. I looked into YouTube and here in MR for any better instructions, maybe with pictures, and am finding nothing.
Hi Capt.Brigg,
We went through the same thing at our club. Eventually we just gave up. Any hand thrown turnouts will use slide switches cut into the roadbed with a hole in the switch for an actuating rod.
Any time I have tried to throw Caboose Industries ground throws I have run into a problem grabbing the levers. They sit right down close to the ballast so getting my finger tips on to them always seems to be difficult. The slide switches just need a push with a finger tip. Cheap, easy, not much to go wrong.... what else do you need?
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
My first one took a while to get "just right". After that they went quite smoothly.
I've posted hints here over the years and found a few old posts but, thanks to Photobucket, all the photos are gone.
If I get a chance I'll come back with some new photos and hints. What part of the assembly is giving you trouble? I found the instructions, rather than too vague, to be quite well detailed — almost too detailed.
It has been a few years since I installed my last one but I'll try to dig up those dusty, far off recollections and perhaps reply with something worthwhile.
Throw-220 by Edmund, on Flickr
IMG_7682 by Edmund, on Flickr
hon30critterAny time I have tried to throw Caboose Industries ground throws I have run into a problem grabbing the levers.
You don't have to fight with that lever like this poor chap has to.
Dave, there's no reason that the throw lever has to be pushed down to the layout surface. I try to leave mine about 1/8" off the roadbed so it is easy for old, clumsy fingers to grab the oversized throw lever. Maybe you could Goo some stop-blocks on either side of the throw to keep the "handle" elevated a bit? Or, like I did —
Drive a pair of fillister-head track nails on each side of the throw lever to act as "keepers":
Throw-220a by Edmund, on Flickr
I wrote up a reply here a few years ago about how to install the 220 but I'll be pinched if I can find it now
Some of what I recall I will write here.
1-a. "Pre-fit" the 220 with the points centered the handle centered and the throw-bar connected to find the center of the hole you need to drill in the roadbed.
1. You have to make a generous sized hole (3/8" or so) for the three U shaped sticks to pass through the roadbed. Solder about a foot of fine wire to each stick first. Don't install the contact block until the end.
2. The bronze sliding contact goes in the groove only one way. I believe the slot remains on the outside. Carefully hold the retainer with a good grip when you push it in. IT only fits one way. Be sure you have it correct.
2b. Place the three stick stationary contact assembly with wires into the hole. As you bring the ground throw into place, then clip it into the underside of the assembly.
3. Align the points and center them. I use a toothpick or plastic shim to make them even between the stock rail and diverging rail. Center the Caboose lever so the lever is is straight up. At this point it is best to pre-drill some pilot holes where the 220 will be spiked down.
4. Then carefully set the retainer in place that holds the three contact sticks against the sliding bronze strip. I put a tiny drop of CRC-26 or DeOxIt on the contacts. Make a few test "throws" berfore finally setting the spikes. Then carefully tap the two holding nails in place using a nail-set for the final few taps. Don't overdrive.
5. Lastly, slide the three-hole insulator up from the bottom, through the wires, then make your connections to the frog (center stick) and appropriate N or S rail as required.
Hope that helps,
Cheers, Ed
I once talked in person to the owner at that time over 20 years ago. Told him my problems as I am sure others have, but nothing has changed. I find some of the stuff, like these ground throws, are just too fragile. I have broken more than one lever off the high switch stands they sell also. I just ended up using spst along with ground throw on last layout.
I have used the nails on both side of the throw bar to keep the head/weight off the ground and another way is to just take your finger and touch/push on the pivit center and that will make the head/wright lift right up off the ground.
Look closely at the photo already posted by someone else.. Hold assembled unit in your hand with "rod- to-switch" end pointing left. Place the metal contact with short "ears" into the inside of the rectangular slot that will move when ground throw is thown. By doing this the 2 long contact "ears" on the outside will come in contact with the curved edge of three electrical prongs assembly. Locate the tiny rectangular piece on the sprue, clip it off and then use small needle nose pliers to press into the rectangular cavity thus securing the "brass" contacts in place. Now take the three prong device and with curved edges pointed toward brass contacts, carefully snuggle it into the elongated opening with the "snap-in-place" end pointing left toward the tracks....it will only go in one way as there is a tiny tab on the end opposite the "snap" in place end. That's it. Once you have the "brass" contact in place the assembly makes sense. The instructions are very misleading. Keep it simple.....the correct end piece going to your turnout should be installed first. Then place the "brass" contact into the rectangular well and secure it with the tiny rectangular piece with the nub on top....just press it in. The rest of the project will then make sense. Hope this rambling will make sense. Brad Hutton Bow, NH