UNCLEBUTCH Not all of us enjoy a large disposable income. Or hobby budget.
Not all of us enjoy a large disposable income. Or hobby budget.
And neither do I, Butch, so I understand what you are saying. I don't buy very many tools. I just spend it on ones that I can afford and that I think will optimize my hobby time. If another tool you already have will give you the same benefit then it doesn't make sense to spend $$$ on something else.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstage30 years ago I needed to replace the axle fluid in my AMC Eagle. The fill hole was at the top of the axle and access to it was VERY limited. So, I went to Napa and spent a whopping $7 for a hand pump with a flexible (Tygon) tube. Worked like a charm and was the best $7 investment I ever made that I only used once.
No argument; But In your case with the car,there was no other way to do it.
In my case; I had a tool that gave the same results. The money I didn't spend on the Xuron tool went to another special tool. One that I have used many,many times.
Not all of us enjoy a large disposable income. Or hobby budget. I need a bigger bang for my buck
UNCLEBUTCH I had this samr issue awhile back, Frank and others said go get the xuron tool. I did not forsee a lot of use for a new tool. Went out to the shed, grabbed my tin snips, made the [2] cuts, put the snips back, have not needed them again. ''I'' can not see spending money on a tool, or any thing else to use once. just MO
I had this samr issue awhile back, Frank and others said go get the xuron tool.
I did not forsee a lot of use for a new tool. Went out to the shed, grabbed my tin snips, made the [2] cuts, put the snips back, have not needed them again.
''I'' can not see spending money on a tool, or any thing else to use once. just MO
30 years ago I needed to replace the axle fluid in my AMC Eagle. The fill hole was at the top of the axle and access to it was VERY limited. So, I went to Napa and spent a whopping $7 for a hand pump with a flexible (Tygon) tube. Worked like a charm and was the best $7 investment I ever made that I only used once.
$15 for a hand tool to make very precise cuts on a sprue of detail metal parts is worth the investment - for me - for the lack of frustration alone. And sometimes you don't know whether you'll use something again unless you try it and see how much easier the process is now that you have the right tool. (And I've used mine a few times now.)
There's always more than one way to look at a side of a coin...
I use mine a lot. I'll keep it. I use mine for more purposes than just cutting pieces of the sprue.
Mike.
My You Tube
tstage Whether you cut a lot or only a few etched-metal parts, Henry, it's worth having the right tool for the right job. Tom
Whether you cut a lot or only a few etched-metal parts, Henry, it's worth having the right tool for the right job.
''You betcha''...........................
Take Care!
Frank
Thanks everyone
The one in the pic is #2130. That is no longer in the Micro Mark nor Xuron catalog. I think the replacement is 9180. I don't see a lot of etchings in my future.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
mbinsewi I use these, at the rcomendation of Frank [Zsripe]
I use these, at the rcomendation of Frank [Zsripe]
Purchase the Xuron scissors, Henry. You won't regret it. It works GREAT on photo-etched metal parts and is worth the cost. I think I paid $16 for mine at my LHS. I can also cut parts so close that I don't even need to file them. You may also want to purchase a Tamika diamond file for any fine filing you may need to do.
Henry,
Sounds like You are dealing with stainless steel etchings. In that case I use what Mike showed and for the size parts I use the shears work great...they do cut right at the tip. On softer etchings like brass, some parts are just too tiny for shears. I use Excel #6 and #16 stencil edge scoring blades. They work a lot better than #11's.....harder to break the tip off, which I need in many things I do. The blade that is in the knife in the pic' is a #6....works like a charm on brass etchings, which is also shown. For perspective, that bicycle is HO scale 1/87......the ship parts are 1/350 for the Battleship Prince Of Wales I'm building:
Some of those parts, will really make you talk to yourself........LOL
It's likely stainless steel, as I've encountered it for detail parts on vehicles. An X-Acto blade (or that in a utility knife) will cut it, but not if you're trying to slice it.
Instead, place the fret of parts on a hard surface and use the "heel" of the X-Acto blade to press down firmly where you wish to make the cut. The heavier blade in a utility knife will likely work better, partly because the blade is heavier and partly because the handle allows you to apply more force. You'll still need to file any burrs from the released items.
An easier method is to use a cut-off disc in a motor tool (Dremel, etc.).Don't cut right at the part - leave a bit of excess material on it, rather than risk damaging it. You can then hold the released part with pliers, and use the cut-off disc (or a file) to clean-up the part.
Wayne
I got mine from Micro Mark, I think, item # 84903
Do I need a Xuron tool? A no. 11 blade doesn't cut it, pun intended.
I read warnings about not using rail nippers for anything else. I have a Plano Cabbose parts kit, some sort of bright silver metal.