Advice Needed Re: Layout Room Environment

[tpd0418]

Hello all,

My wife and I are hoping to build a new house within the next year, and we plan to construct a separate building to house my long-wished-for layout. I would like some advice from experienced builders regarding the ideal environment for a layout room with regards to flooring, lighting, climate control (central air/heat vs. window units), electrical needs, etc. as well as other things I should consider (sink, workbench, ventilation). FYI, I plan a room in the neighborhood of 20x30 or 20x35, something like that. I desire a layout with a long mainline, but a simple design overall - one that I can operate alone without need for additional operators, as there is no local model railroad club.

I live in southeast Georgia so the weather is warm to hot with high humidity most of the year. Thank you in advance for your advice.

TPD

[tutaenui]

Lucky you, I wish I had the chance for a custom layout room.
Important requirements for a layout room are for a dust free, stable temprature and humidity space. So I guess air con is a plus. To reduce dust avoid carpet or unpainted concrete floors. Avoid windows in layout room. If you have a workshop have it in a separate room from the layout. Pay attention to lighting and electrical outlets. Suggest master on/off switch by exit door that electrically isolates all but the building services outlets, this reduces chance of fire from an inadvertantly left on soldering iron, heater etc. Fit room with fire extingusher. Toilet in building is very desirable. Also maybe a small lounge area for friends to congregate during and/or after play. Have you considered a mobile or removable buiding so that if you shift house you can uplift layout room.?

[jhoff310]

Its funny you mention a mobile or removable building. A friend of mine purchased a mobile home on 5 acres a few years back and built a house. He then gutted the mobile home and turned it into his train house. He has since had to move due to his job, his company paid to move the mobile home to his current house. Sure beats tearing it down.
jeff

[Anonymous]

My greatest concern would be humidity levels in your part of the country. I would have air conditioning with a dehumidifier to keep expansion and contraction of the building materials used in your layout.
About building materials... I have had great luck using MDF, medium density fiberboard, it will not warp or cup and is knot free.
Good luck with your rairoad empire building!
Roger

[MisterBeasley]

I'm in Massachusetts, a long way from Georgia, but I also regard A/C as an essential. We went the "middle road" by installing through-the-wall units. They're permanently installed (no lugging these monsters to and from the basement every year) and you can get fairly large ones to run on 110, although if you're starting from dirt you might as well wire it for 220, as you'll need that for a larger unit.

Also, consider the re-sale value. If you build a windowless blockhouse, it will be far less attractive to a buyer down the line a few years. For the same reason, I'd also install TV cable, phone and CAT-5 for an Internet connection.

And I'd put in a pair of big French doors that open out. Again, very attractive for re-sale, and they have the advantage of giving you a large opening if you should ever want to move a large section of layout.

[mikebonellisr]

My train room works pretty good for me.I'm in NY state and we get a wide range of temps[today,Jan 1, it must be near 60].I have a 20x20 ft. train room with a 6x10' addition for a toilet,sink,refrigeator,micro wave,powered vent and cabinets under and above the counter top.The room is heated with a vented propane heater with 2 in the wall back-up electric heaters[which I've yet to use,other than test once a year] I have 3 sliding glass windows on the south side which are set high and don't interfere with the layout.A 1500btu air conditioner window unit in one of the side double hung windows.A dehumidifier,a air filter.Lighting is a combination of track lighting,on dimmers and flouresent overhead lights{my wife says that when she drives up the hill at night,it looks like I have a operating room up there] Being that I wired the place,I made sure that I had enough circuits and outlets around the room.I've yet to use a extension cord.Also have a good storm door.The room is above a unheated garage about 30' from the house so the floor as well as everything else,is well insulated.Spend a lot of time planning and try to forsee any future needs.I had to convert a existing,un powered shed type room so I just had a basic shell to start with.I would have loved to be in your position when I started building my RR. Good Luck and have fun doing it.Maybe you can give us updates.

[jimrice4449]

All the above is good advise, particularly the mobile home. For a twist, I lve in a mobile, my second, and the train room is a "stick built" 25X26 with a foundation and slab floor and a 12X24 add-on with a RR tie foundation.
The appeal of the mobile from your point of view would be the length to width ration for those main line runs. Put a reverse loop on either side of entry door and run the RR around the walls from there.
Two things about the mobile. Some areas have zoning restrictions that prohibit them. If you go mobile you'll want to lay two parrellel slabs to mount it rather than just prop it up on cement blocks (voice of experience). Otherwise it's quick and once you connect the utilities your set to go. It would also most likely be cheaper than going from scratch. If you from scratch with a cement slab floor build a false floor of 2X4s and particle board underlayment. Those cement floors are killers on your feet (more voice of experience)

[Leon Silverman]

If you are going to use window air conditioners, plan on installing windows that are spec'ed out for at least a 30 inch width rough opening. This should give a opened window width of at least 25 inches. This open widow width is critical. Your 20 x 30 or 20 by 35 sized room will require at least 12,000 BTU cooling capacity to cool the the room down quickly (assuming an average sun exposure). You can get by with a smaller unit if you are willing to allow the unit to run continuously and the room is well insulated. Unless you are willing to spend upwards of $400 on special designs, this capacity box window unit will not be available in a chassis size less than 24-25 inches.
The alternative is to mount the air conditioner directly into the wall.

[tpd0418]

Thanks for the great advice, guys. I've been out of town and apologize for the delay in responding to your suggestions.

TPD