Have track on standard cork roadbed (HO) on plywood. Recently learned that the 45 degree shoulders should be more like 20-30 degrees for realism. Looking for suggestions on how to accomplish this. (No scenery or ballast yet).
Ken to the forum. It takes a lot more ballast to hide that sharp 45 degree angle. I use whatever coarse sandpaper is handy a sanding block, or 100 or even 60 grit.
Some claim to use sureform tools on cork, but I find they tend to gouge. If you sweep up the sanded cork, you can use it to fill in gaps in the cork, like around turnouts, where you piece together pieces of cork. (Gerry Leone trick)
I do this before installing cork, but it can be done after, it's just is a little harder to do the curves.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
KenKrupaRecently learned that the 45 degree shoulders should be more like 20-30 degrees for realism. Looking for suggestions on how to accomplish this.
Ballast will naturally do this as you apply it. It will create an appropriate slope based on the size and shape of the particles.
DSC02142 by wp8thsub, on Flickr
DSC02142
All of this track is installed on cork with the normal 45 degree slope. The ballast almost automatically yielded a prototypical angle as ut was applied.
Rob Spangler
Hi Ken,
Welcome to the forums!
Coarse sandpaper will make quick work of rounding off the edges of cork roadbed but it is easier to do without the track installed. You can do it with the track installed but it requires much more care in order to avoid damaging the ends of the ties.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
wp8thsubThe ballast almost automatically yielded a prototypical angle as ut was applied.
Yup! Just like the real stuff, it found its angle of repose.
Wayne
Ken,
You could use Homabed subroadbed. It is made by Cascade Rail Supply. You can get both 30 degree or 45 degree angles.
Regards,
Greg
Greg Shindledecker Modeling the =WM= Thomas Sub in the mid-70s
One thing I do when ballasting is to apply white glue with a paintbrush along the edge of the cork and slightly on to the base. I then sprinkle a bit of ballast along those and get a thin layer to start with. I then go and apply the main layer of ballast after that has dried. I find this helps alot to avoid bald spots showing up and in the end uses less ballast as you are not just heaping it on until the angle is covered.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
This is probably way too expensive of an idea: purchase Stryene half cirlces and glue them to the sides of the cork.