riogrande5761...It might be nice to put in the curved corners but if/when I need to sell the home some day, that would require a fair amount of work to undo wouldn't it?....
Yes, definitely a bit more work for room remediation. In my layout room, there are 10 corners, and 9 of them are coved. I had considered that when I built, but knew that it would be a while before another move. When that day comes, once I get the 1/2" drywall into the basement, the hardest part of the job is done.
Wayne
Wayne, thanks for the suggestion. It might be nice to put in the curved corners but if/when I need to sell the home some day, that would require a fair amount of work to undo wouldn't it? In my last home, all I had to do was remove the layout and patch a few holes and some touch-up paint.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
kasskaboose For those who use interlocking foam pads on the floor, do you lift the layout legs to rest on top of the bad or cut the pads around the legs? My layout is built and wondering the best way to put down the pads. I know the pads go in the aisles but how to handle the legs?
For those who use interlocking foam pads on the floor, do you lift the layout legs to rest on top of the bad or cut the pads around the legs? My layout is built and wondering the best way to put down the pads. I know the pads go in the aisles but how to handle the legs?
My feet are only size 10, so they don't extend under the benchwork when I stand beside it.
The pads don't even touch the legs. They are a few inches from them.
- Douglas
Nothing to do about floors, but kind of wish I would have coved my corners. I was afraid of the precious space it would take up.
Mike.
My You Tube
riogrande5761...A couple weekends of mudding left before I can hopefully paint the walls sky blue.
If you're interested, and if it's not too late, coved corners are pretty easy to do...
The red line represents the joint tape, the green stuff is the drywall mud. The 1/8" Masonite is attached to the walls only along the vertical edges - you'll need to countersink for those screwheads.
I usually extend the curve of the Masonite at least one stud space from the corner on either side. You could probably calculate the length of Masonite needed for the curve, but I simply placed my tape measure in a rough approximation of the desired curve, then cut a piece to that size. In most cases, I set the standing piece at the corner, then pushed on the middle of it, forcing it to snap into place...the !/2" drywall along either edge kept it in place, but I added screws along the vertical edges so that it wouldn't pop out if pushed at the centre of the curve. The results are very stable, no cracks at any of the corners, whether inside- or outside curves, in at least 20 years.
This photo was taken just before I began adding the partial second level, and the only indication that a corner exists here is the part of it which is still visible...
Rick, so your layout is torn down - the one in your photos?
How many sq ft of that basement area do you get for the trains?
I moved over a year ago and am finishing 700 sq ft of basement of which 3/4 is planned for a layout at present. A couple weekends of mudding left before I can hopefully paint the walls sky blue.
I have recently moved and my new (to me) condo had a wonderful owner who finished 1,000 sq ft. of the basement with drywall, ceiling, and laminate flooring.
Right now, part of the basement beyond the french doors is our library/computer room with a futon for guests if necessary beyond the second bedroom upstairs. My wife and I are sharing the remainder of the finished area with my workbench and her craft area, and I have room for a layout along one wall.
There is also a storage area for all my completed and uncompleted car kits, locomotives and structures. This area has the floor drain and two sump pumps.
Hopefully will be starting the layout later this year.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
I've lived with basements that had straight drains, and a basement that had a sump pump. Think of the drain pipes either from the sump pump discharge line OR the floor drains getting clogged by things like the missing socks fromt he laundry or from psky almost unstoppable tree root-or even age related collapse.
ATLANTIC CENTRALHere where it actually gets cold, I dislike porcelain or ceramic tile on floors. And grout lines - no thank you......
.
That would make a difference. Here where it never gets cold, tile is the way to go. The ROOMBA (sp?) vacuum does a great job keeping the floor clean, and Stanley Steamer comes once a year to clean the grout.
Now that I think about it, I don't think Stanley Steamer has been here since my youngest daughter moved out. I probably need to get that done.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 T.I.F. (This is Florida). . We just install imported porcelain tile on all floors. That is what is in all my house, and what will be in the train room. . -Kevin .
T.I.F. (This is Florida).
We just install imported porcelain tile on all floors. That is what is in all my house, and what will be in the train room.
Better you than me. Here where it actually gets cold, I dislike porcelain or ceramic tile on floors.
And grout lines - no thank you......
But I am stuck with some for now in the new house, kitchen and bath, not going to change them any time soon.
Wood or carpet for me thanks.
My new train room is currently painted concrete, and will get some sort of carpet squares or rubber mats as things progress.
Sheldon
azrail I use those foam squares, they tend to build up a static charge, esp. when new. This could be a problem if you have DCC.
I use those foam squares, they tend to build up a static charge, esp. when new. This could be a problem if you have DCC.
I have the problem with static and I bought an anti-static spray they use in IT workplaces. Very inexpensive and you don't have to drown the mats. Dries quickly. I wear sneakers in the train room and when I notice the static, I give the foam squares a spray. I bought mine at Harbor Freight with the 20% off coupon. Took some friends and got all that I needed in one shot.
Neal
I use a needle felt carpet in my train room.
The floor is concrete, and as I didn't want problems with moisture, the needle felt without rubber backing was the safe bet.
It's also very, very cheap. Only 70 cents per square foot.
Swedish Custom painter and model maker. My Website:
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"Ollie's Bargain Outlet" down here has 30" square overstocks for $2.00 each. You can pick through them and find ones that match.
Thanks for all the input. I hadn't really considered the random remnants before, but I gotta say I'm warming up to them a bit. I like the casual look. And I see there is a HUGE price savings with the randoms.
I had a finished train room with ceiling lights, AC and real wall to wall carpet. I loved it. I would do it again.
The carpet was comfortable to stand on and provided a soft landing in case something fell.
Don't spill stuff on it, though.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
If you want to stain the concrete, you need to do that before you seal it. That's what I did, using a dark brown stain that hides stuff pretty well.
It you paint, that's also best done over an unsealed floor, but will also work over a sealed floor.
In both cases, carefully observe any prep steps.
Regardless of doing either of the above or not, you definitely want to seal the concrete. Otherwise, it will generate dust.
I cover my floor with some of the cheaper floor cushioning foam. It comes in roughly 2'x2' squares or in rolls that are a littlle under 4x8. I like the roll stuff as it cover the width of most aisles and results in fewer junctions between the pieces.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
The vapor barrier also stops condensation on the slab surface from the transition from cold ground to warm slab.
It's critical up here in the north country for a slab on grade, which is what OneWolf has, and even under basement floors, where the floor typically 6' to 7' below grade, more so if your custom building the house for you and your family, with intentions of using the basement for living and rec area.
Most builders of spec homes don't use this, and it is not a code requirement in WI. but placing 4" of clean sand or stone under a slab is.
Since this is about floors, I guess I'm still on topic!
Onewolf The vapor barrier is for moisture. I have not heard of any radon issues in Florida (where basements are extremely rare for most of the state).
The vapor barrier is for moisture. I have not heard of any radon issues in Florida (where basements are extremely rare for most of the state).
Good point, the water table seems to be shallow in many places.
BigDaddy Onewolf Yes, a vapor barrier was installed undered the garage/workshop slab.
Onewolf Yes, a vapor barrier was installed undered the garage/workshop slab.
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
mbinsewi As a home inspector, I've lost count of how many "finished" basements I've been in, with prospective home buyers, and how many times I'm asked, "would that be hard to rip out?" Realtors advise sellers to get rid such things before showing the house. I know there are exceptions out there, but I've never seen it. Mike.
As a home inspector, I've lost count of how many "finished" basements I've been in, with prospective home buyers, and how many times I'm asked, "would that be hard to rip out?"
Realtors advise sellers to get rid such things before showing the house. I know there are exceptions out there, but I've never seen it.
That's always a consideration, what buyers would need to do to get a home configured to their liking. Neutral minimizes it or at least makes a home more livable on the short term.
Even the bank-owned fixer-upper I bought at least had new carpet and new paint throughout and we could live in it ok while we did upgrades and repairs etc. So far we've upgraded the kitchen (new granite counters, sanded and stained the cupboards, new sink, new faucet, new disposal and all new appliances, and subway tile backsplash. The front door was taken out to replace rotted threshold wood and new front door with storm door installed. Over Dec/Jan we ripped out the master bath shower and jacuzzi tub and installed a new bigger walk-in shower and a narrower 2-person jetted tub. Still need to resurface and stain the hardwood floors.
Of course now the big project is finishing the basement. When purchased, the basement main rooms were framed in including a bathroom. During last summer/fall did some prep by having hot and cold piping extended to the sink/toilet/shower and had wiring and outlets setup and installed. Then did some fireblocking and wire/pipe shielding so basement was ready for the rough walk-through after the permit was obtained. Dec to present working on drywall, taping, mudding etc.
I knew in the last home I had to tear down the layout and restore the basement room to "move in ready" before showing the home. Knowing that it's best to show with as little as possible in the home, we considered renting a storage unit but instead just packed the boxes in one end of the basement room so it could be seen pretty well.
rrinker One man's treasure is another man's trach - if there is any consideration for selling the house and being able to returnt he basement to a neutral state instead of a model railroad paradise,
I never have inspected a home with a model railroad in it, or any remnants of such.
Now back to topic, floors.
For re-sale, neutral is always best.
rrinker I'm not sure why you would both tiling int he first place. YOU may think the tile you've chosen is a neutral 'safe' color/pattern, but the next people might not.
What would you recommend? The former owners of my last townhouse had carpet in the basement when seemed nice enough, until it got soaked and had to be ripped out. My sisters carpeted basement, same thing - got water and it was soaked sopping wet.
Tile OTOH, can withstand being wet without having to rip it out right away. The best you can do is try to chose a fairly neutral tile and any future buyer can put in carpet if they want or maybe area rugs. And btw, you can get tile now that looks like wood (faux wood tile) if that is more neutral and widely appealing.
After all, someone thought the various paneling patterns in my basement looked good.
Back in the 1970's that was probably true. Ask my wife and she would say wood paneling is old fashioned and not in a good way. A few have shown photo's of their layouts in a wood paneled room and it was very distracting - not nice at all. But if the owner is happy, I guess it's their layout as they say.
As for pulling up the tiles, my guess is buyers would prefer a FULLY finished basement rather than one with a concrete floor. I know I would. Even if I didn't care for it, at least a finished floor can be used until you have time and money to change it to something you prefer.
OnewolfYes, a vapor barrier was installed undered the garage/workshop slab.
Is that for moisture or radon gas?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
One man's treasure is another man's trach - if there is any consideration for selling the house and being able to returnt he basement to a neutral state instead of a model railroad paradise, I'm not sure why you would both tiling int he first place. YOU may think the tile you've chosen is a neutral 'safe' color/pattern, but the next people might not. After all, someone thought the various paneling patterns in my basement looked good. I'll have to get some pictures - I think most will agree it's horrible. If you're going to lay removable mats or carpet tiles on top anyway... just sealing it, not paint, stuff made for the purpose, to keep down the dust means you can tear out the layout, pull up the tiles and the basement will be like it was before, ready for the next occupants.
Though I am mounting much of my layout right to the wall, I don;t think I will be painting the new walls anything but plain old builder white. Backdrops will be a different layer. Instead of painting the walls in a sky blue. Partly because there will be the verticals that need to be hidden anyway, supporting the second deck, so even if I made the lower level freestanding, at least the lower level would need a backdrop that is not the room wall.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Standing on hard surfaces for extended periods of time is right out for me. I have bad knees and flat feet. There needs to be some cushioning.
Standing on hard surfaces for extended periods of time is right out for me. I have bad knees and flat feet. There needs to be some cushioning.
I think all would agree with that.
Probably the best compromise is to put either the rubber mats down or carpet squares in the aisle over the permanent tile.
mbinsewi The B4 looks like a good product. Did you also place a vapor barrier under the slab? Retired cement finisher, just curious. Mike
The B4 looks like a good product. Did you also place a vapor barrier under the slab?
Retired cement finisher, just curious.
Mike
Yes, a vapor barrier was installed undered the garage/workshop slab.
We have a local store here that sells the random carpet squares by the box full, for very cheap. So this is kikely what I will be using. There already is carpet in my basement, from whent he previous owners finished it, but it is extremely dirty - not damp or mildewy though, which is good. It has to go. Plus there are interior walls I am ripping out which would leave gaps in the carpet anyway. The cheap carpet tiles seem like the idea solution - cheap (always a plus) and if you should damage one by dropping something on it, you cna just pull out that one square and pop another back in. The interlocking rubber mats are nice too, more expensive, but maybe even more cushion, and hardly anything damages them - had them at every machine in the shop back when I worked in a machine shop.