bridge gusset rivets, what can I use

[hon30critter]

doctorwayne

Dave, as long as you need to move the decal, don't use any setting solution until it's exactly where you want it to be.

Thanks Wayne,

That's exactly what I have been doing. I had seen one of Cody Grivno's  videos a while ago where he used decal solutions to position the decal (or at least that's what I thought he was recommending) so I followed his lead. That's when the decals started to break apart. Back to plain water and no problems.

I'm glad I solved the problem because I was getting pretty frustrated. I wasted a whole bunch of rivet decals using Micro Sol to try to float them into position.

Dave

 

[doctorwayne]

Dave, as long as you need to move the decal, don't use any setting solution until it's exactly where you want it to be.
I use sorta-distilled water (from the well-cleaned dehumidifier bucket), and most decals can be floated and re-floated many times, as long as you haven't used a setting solution.  I'm not talking about just 3 or 4 times, but even after coming back a day or two later
I usually blot the applied decal when it's in-place, using a clean hanky, but if it moves due to the blotting, simply re-wet and re-position.  You can also let the decal dry-in-place.  Once it has, use a weak setting solution (MicroSet works well) applied with a brush, just touching the brush to the edges of the decal - you'll usually see it being drawn-in under the decal, and may have to repeat a couple times.
Once that has dried, you can use a stronger solution (I prefer Solvaset) and apply it over the entire decal - don't over-work it - simply apply, then go do something else while it works. 
Occasionally, you'll have air bubbles or silvering under the decal.  Once it dries, I use the tip of a new #11 blade to lightly slit the decal film - a straight - for a small area, and an x for larger areas, then re-apply the stronger setting solution.

I've not experienced rivet decals breaking-up with regular setting solutions, but with the MicroMark ones, I find that even Solvaset has very limited effect with regards to settling the decal...that's why I turned to the MEK, which can remove the rivets from the decal film and/or dissolve the film if you use too much or apply it too slowly.

Wayne

[hon30critter]

I have found that I have trouble with decal rivet strips and pinstripes when I use decal application fluids. The decals tend to break very easily and they are hard to float into position. I just use plain water and the decals seem to hold up better and they are easier to move around. I know people recommend using distilled water but I've never had a problem with the minerals leaving a mark. I guess it depends on the water. Our tap water isn't particularly hard.

Dave

[doctorwayne]

sktrains

Thanks!!! , I didnt realize I can just buy them as a decal and stick them on this might not be as tedious as i thought 

 

I've found that they work best if applied to a painted surface, rather than bare plastic - a coat of primer is fine for that purpose, as the surface doesn't need to be shiny, as it would for lettering decals.

 

Wayne

[BATMAN]

Another trick if you ever find yourself needing just a couple of rivets is to mix up some 5-minute epoxy and with a pin just dip it in the epoxy and dab a bit on the whatever. With a little practice, you get the size of the tiny blob right. Then when it has set, sand it round. I find a small file is good as well.

[sktrains]

Thanks!!! , I didnt realize I can just buy them as a decal and stick them on this might not be as tedious as i thought 

[doctorwayne]

Rivet decals, from either Archer or MicroMark are a good choice.

After repairing large cuts in the sides of this brass tender, I sanded-off all of the remaining embossed rivets...

...and replaced them using MicroMark rivet decals...

I used Archer rivets to add detail to the scratchbuilt replacement ends used on this Train Miniature boxcar...

 ...and also used them on the car's sides...

...cutting them into individual pieces to get the proper spacing....

I've found the Archer rivets easier to set using Solvaset, while the ones from MicroMark didn't respond well to it, despite repeated applications. 
In desperation,  when adding rivets to this scratchbuilt car, I found that a light and quick pass with a brush dipped in MEK did the trick, and it also works on plastic, too.  However, using too much or too slow, the rivets will be removed from the clear film.

This is a plastic car, mostly scratchbuilt, done with MicroMark rivet decals, set using MEK...

Wayne

[SeeYou190]

I use thin styrene strip for gusset plates and add Micro-Mark rivet decals.

.

-Kevin

.

[BATMAN]

These are micromark rivets before and after painting. I did gusset plates as well but no pics.

 

It was my first scratch built bridge. The next one will be better.

[hon30critter]

Hello Steve,

For the number of rivets that you are looking at, you might want to consider using a pounce wheel on .005" or .010" styrene as an overlay.

https://www.micromark.com/3-piece-Pounce-Wheel-Set

Dave

[maxman]

Archer Decals: http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88087.html

Micro Mark has a similar product: https://www.micromark.com/HO-scale-decals-with-raised-3D-rivets-and-other-surface-details

 

[gmpullman]

J.C.'s advice is good. If you can find an old Central Valley truss bridge kit, there are a lot of gusset plates and handy structural members, too.

https://www.cvmw.com/bridges.htm

 

Just one more option to look at.

Good Luck, Ed

[j. c.]

if you just want rivets https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/p/8017/Default.aspx  they also have gusset plates  https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/p/8216/Default.aspx 

[sktrains]

Hello all

Im working on a scratch built lift bridge that spans about 3 feet on my ho layout, Does anyone have any tips or ideas for what I can use for the rivets on the gusset plates? I know this is probably going to be a very tedious time consuming detail but I think it’s not going to look right without them.

The small plates measure ½ x ½  out of 1/16 thick bass wood  with clipped  corners and The bigger plates are 1 X ½

Thanks 

Steve