OK Mel, got the message, thanks!
I have to keep checking my PM's as the little envelope is supposed to change colors when you have a message, mine doesn't, so I check it every once in a while.
Just another glitch.
Mike.
My You Tube
OK, I'll look for info on your people casting.
Thanks.
RR_Mel Almost all are Mel castings with the exception of a few that were unpainted Preiser and China here and there bought early on, mostly used for making molds.
Do have more details about your process in your blog? I'll have to check that out. I always thought your people were different than what I've seen before, especially your passenger cars, they look so excellent!
It is, but many of the people I want to add will be at the train station, or on the streets and sidewalks, or workers at industries and my transload yard, all on a hard surface.
I have plenty of the stuff from Michaels, I'll probably stick ( pun intended!) with that.
A lot of great ideas in here!
Good luck Dave. I bet, overall, you'll have quite a population to deal with.
RR_MelI’ll stick with my pins (pun intended). I drill a #78 hole and drop my people in it. They can easily be rotated and or removed.
That's an interesting option Mel.
Thanks,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Aileen's tacky glue holds my figures in place, and they come right up. I sometimes hit one by accident.
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
I favor Woodland Scenics Hob-E-Tac for gluing wee folk and vehicles since they can be easily removed and relocated.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
rrinker Mel needs to stop using satellite images of my back yard to build his models from. Actually, my pool is bigger and not rectangular, which menas everything costs more because it has to be custom made. Simple rectangular safety covers cost half what I had to pay for one for my pool. Oh well. Just needs to be spring again so I can open it. Done with winter already. --Randy
Mel needs to stop using satellite images of my back yard to build his models from.
Actually, my pool is bigger and not rectangular, which menas everything costs more because it has to be custom made. Simple rectangular safety covers cost half what I had to pay for one for my pool. Oh well. Just needs to be spring again so I can open it. Done with winter already.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I wanna be in that scene! Wait, is that me standing on the barrel? NOPE I dont, or never did have, blond hair.
joe323...Sorry, Wayne, I disagree with you respectfully....
Hey, Joe, if everybody agreed with me, there wouldn't be much point in me posting anything. I never intend to foist my methods on anybody, but simply offer them as my preferred way of doing something, and a possible choice for others.That said, I don't mind learning of alternatives, either, as there's lots of good info available. While I'm often rather set in my ways, I can recognise when someone offers a better way.
My preference for leaving most details loose is mainly because layout cleaning is done mostly with a shop vac, albeit not that often. The layout is in a dedicated room, so not a lot of dust incursion (no heat or cooling). Small details might not be secure, even when glued in-place and they're more liable to contact damage. Because the cleaning isn't needed all that often, the scenes can get stale, but even a yearly or bi-yearly changing of details can help. My LPBs in vehicles are probably wishing that a late '30s version of GPS were available, as their location seems to change radically, without warning. I also leave the bodies of most vehicles unattached to the chassis, so that figures can be added or removed, depending on whether the vehicle is on the road or parked.I go on the local annual layout tours, and a lot of them, while being exceptionally well detailed, look exactly the same, year after year. The trains may be running, but the vehicles and LPBs are where they've always been, and in some cases, are collecting dust. My layout is nowhere near "finished", with only a couple of areas even presentable - that's why everybody keeps seeing the same scenes over and over. Perhaps when it's more "finished", I'll get lazy and stop moving things around...or even worse, stop cleaning things.
Wayne
I suppose some of us elect not to use, and to have handy, a partially used tube of DAP Alex Plus with silicone, or any similar caulk product. But I always have some and do use it extensively. The 'dries clear' version is rather rubbery and can be forced to part ways with its 'friend' if you need it to. A hobby blade will help, but if you use the tiniest dab of it under a 'people', and prop the item up until it sets, you'll have a good product working for you. Cheap...like borscht.
I too use plastic cement for figures. Perhaps scotts double-sided tape works also? You want something that keeps the figures properly situated even after something (or something jars them).
doctorwayne Dave, the Woodland Scenics stuff is Accent Glue. It comes in a plastic bottle with a brush-in-cap top. For your LPBs, put a small dab on their feet (or bums, if they're seated figures), then let it sit until the glue turns from white to clear. You can then place them anywhere, and the glue stays effective and re-useable for some time. If the scene needs to be changed, pick 'em up and place them somewhere else. When the glue is no longer working, rub it off using your fingers, then apply some fresh stuff. You can also use it to fix layout details in place, although I prefer to leave all of that stuff un-fixed. Wayne
Dave, the Woodland Scenics stuff is Accent Glue. It comes in a plastic bottle with a brush-in-cap top.
For your LPBs, put a small dab on their feet (or bums, if they're seated figures), then let it sit until the glue turns from white to clear. You can then place them anywhere, and the glue stays effective and re-useable for some time. If the scene needs to be changed, pick 'em up and place them somewhere else. When the glue is no longer working, rub it off using your fingers, then apply some fresh stuff.
You can also use it to fix layout details in place, although I prefer to leave all of that stuff un-fixed.
Sorry, Wayne, I disagree with you respectfully.
I use it to fix details like trash cans mailboxes etc. Even cars can be fixed so they don't roll around easily.
I will have to try rubber cement sometime since I have a bottle lying around.
Joe Staten Island West
Thanks guys.
Various "tacky' glues at the craft store should be about the same. Maybe even a small dab of rubber cement - you can pull the figure off easy enough, and any bit of glue remaining can be easily rubbed off.
Probably cheaper than the WS stuff.
I used a product I found at a Michaels store, made by Lemax, called StickyMax. Comes in a little blue tub.
All these people have it on their feet.
wvg_cadollar store has 'hobby tac' that comes in reuseable strips, about the consistency of used chewing gum
Thanks for the suggestion,
i have no experience with the Woodland Scenics product, but dollar store has 'hobby tac' that comes in reuseable strips, about the consistency of used chewing gum ... it's a dollar, it can re reset several times, and takes a couple of years to harden up..
it works well for me ..
Hi gang,
I seem to recall that there is a glue that allows things like people figures to be removed and repositioned without having to apply more glue. Is it Woodland Scenics Hob-E-Tac maybe?